What Must Be Wrong with the Ignition Amplifier?
 

Hello good people on this platform,

Please from the attach photos, I have seen that there is smoke element or traces on the back of the ignition amplifier and the mechanic working on the also mention that there a fuse at the driver side down the dash that blown and cut off fire when the engine is running and makes the fire not stay.

Has anyone experienced this before or anyone with the idea what the problem is that causes this issue and how to fix it to get car moved?


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3e8a1535b9.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3dd55040e9.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...a673a57d8d.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5e2552a286.jpg

Remove those screws and open it up. If something is fried in there it should be quickly apparent, I'd think.

Could be shorted Radio Noise Capacitor??


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ae84a0a36f.jpg

David - (apologies if I'm hijacking the thread, Mike) - what's with the unit on the right? Is that an aftermarket replacement for the original? I'm intrigued.

Yes, left is OEM; right is an after-market unit. Some one else purchased it, opened up for pictures and generously posted on the forum.

David - (apologies if I'm hijacking the thread, Mike) - what's with the unit on the right? Is that an aftermarket replacement for the original? I'm intrigued.

Found the notes that go with two pictures of Amplifiers:
Left picture is Original 4 wire amplifier, with two resistors in rubber housing, just above the condenser (RFI capacitor), and the Lucas 350-volt Zener Diode is on top right corner.

Right picture is current aftermarket amplifier with (2) resistors in shrink-wrap and (2) Zener diodes in series inside shrink-wrap, grounded to left Ignition module attachment screw.

The Lucas AB14 4-wire units (DAB106) are the same as the 2 wire units (DAB102), except for 2 internal resistors circuits, one for the Tachometer (10K) and one for EFI triggering (6.8K).

The Lucas 350 volt clamping Zener diode is not available. You can wire a 190-volt and a 160-volt clamping diode in series to achieve the desired 350-volt protection. (1N5387B, 190V, 5W ZENER DIODE) ($1.10) and a 1N5384B, 160V, 5W ZENER DIODE ($1.10) (E-Bay)

Rgds. David

Mike

Have your mechanic remove the condenser (it is just to reduce Radio Interference and not required) replace fuse and see if it will run without blowing fuse again. If fuse blows again then problem is something else. The amplifier has to be installed back on the intake while your testing, or you will have major intake leaks.

Rgds David