Morning everybody!

Got sidetracked off my aforementioned electrical issues into swapping out pads and rotors on the front. Driver side went off without a hitch, one and done in maybe an hour and a half or so, and the passenger side was going fine and dandy until...

The inner bearing completely disintegrated upon pulling the hub assembly and dropping the rotor!

"No biggie" I think, so I get a fresh replacement inner bearing, lube it up and seat it in the race. All's going well until I go to slap it back on and am unable to get it to properly seat all the way down on the shaft. Just eyeballing it I'd say there's a good two to three inches of gap between the bolt holes on the rotor and those on the hub assembly, so much of a space that if I were to seat the outer bearing there's not enough of the shaft exposed for the bolt let alone the cotter pin.








Here's a couple of pictures demonstrating the issue. I BELIEVE I have the inner bearing and components seated properly, so I'm having trouble figuring out why I can't get the whole she-bang to seat properly.

Any of your wisdom is greatly appreciated!

 

A couple quick thoughts.

My first reaction is that you got the wrong bearing; incorrect inside diameter specifically.

Next, what the condition of the stub axle? Maybe the bearing is hanging up on a wear grove?

Others will chime in.

Cheers
DD

 

MMMM.

The snaps of the inner bearing are not showing the seal clearly, and remember I only have ONE eye, so maybe its there and I just see it.

I have had a few where the seal actually pulls out of the hub whenremoving taht assembly, and stays on the spindle. The inner bearing ahs nothing to hold it in place on the bench, so falls out.

If that seal is still sitting up on the spindle, the about a good 1/2 to 3/4 inch gap will be there.

The snap of the spindle protrusion is about 1/2 to 3.4 to short to my eye.

If the seal is in place in the hub:

The inner bearing, new I assume, is not sliding onto the spindle correctly. I again assume its a 1987 S3 car??, based on your SIG name.
Jaguar changed bearing specs around the 1976 mark, and S2 owners need to check the bearing numbers for replacements., but S3 should all be OK.

 

Interesting. Do you happen to know what the correct diameter is? In my haste I did get one from the local parts store based on model, not to say that's a 100% reliable source, of course. Though I did reuse the old race as it's actually perfectly fine and the bearing seems to fit like a glove.

Also, the stub itself seems OK. I did clean the hub up and inspect it before I started mashing around and it appears to not have any uneven wear.

 

Those are excellent points! I didn't even think to check if the seal got left on the stub so that does make a lot of sense. I'll check and report back asap.

And yessir, it's an 87 Series 3. My first thought was similar to Doug's observation that maybe I got given an incorrect bearing, but it seats with the race perfectly so maybe not? Unless of course it's just the inner diameter that's wrong.

 

Here's the naked stub as it sits. Forgive the ignorance, but I'm not missing anything stuck on it am I?

 

Looks to me like the remnants of the old bearing are still there. Hopefully not seized into place!

Cheers
DD

 

Here's hoping! Again, forgive the early morning ignorance, but what is it that needs remove and any tips for removal?

Thanks!

 

So, provided I'm looking at this right, next to any remnants of the old bearing that are left on there as Doug mentioned, I'm starting to think I got given an inner wheel bearing intended for a late 1987 XJ40 Chassis?


Rock auto listing dialed back a year to '86 for true Series 3 dimensions

Vs. Parts store bearing I got


Thoughts?

 

Remove the circular steel piece that has the ridge on it

When that piece is removed, your stub axle will look like this, and your hub should slide into place:



Cheers
DD

 

I don't have time to check the part numbers at the moment but sometimes it's best to use 1985 model year when looking up these kinds of parts. This takes "XJ40" out of the picture, eliminating the 1986-1987 Series III versus XJ40 confusion

Cheers
DD

 

I had to change Both spindles on my car, but there were Nothing like the condition of yours!
I agree with Doug. Part of the old bearing is still on the spindle.Check out this post, pictures at the bottom specifically.
(';')

 

Yup.. I see it that way. Doug beat me to it.

check out the stuff that fell apart that was the old inner bearing. I suspect that the inner race is absent. it remains on the stub. A part of the failure...

Remove the hub on the other side. Compare...

Not my business, but, a reuse of the race?? Risky in my book..

Carl

 

Hi,
the correct bearings are A-12 for the outer and A-13 for the inner. As everyone above mentioned, the inside race for the inner bearing stayed on the stub axle. Been there before on a work stair cart with non-removable axles yikes ! Clean it up with brake cleaner etc first to make the seam more visible, then as you look at it, the race is the part with two ridges on either side of the flat angled bearing track. The next flat area is the track for the inner wheel seal ( has a slight bevel where the bearing race is pressed against it ). Do not scar this area, it will make the seal fail quickly. The next dip and shoulder area are where the inner water shield should be, is it missing ? You can see it on the picture Doug posted.

To remove the old race: Clean the area of the stub axle where the race will be sliding off with solvent and scotch brite etc., any gunk or slight scratch will make it hang up.

First option - find a 1/2" to 3/4" wide cold chisel or old "hammer ready" screwdriver with a sharp / high angle point ( not blunt, more like a knife / screw driver blade point ). Place it in the seam between the old race and the oil seal track area, CAREFULLY tap it with a hammer. Move to the other side and tap there, then slowly back and forth while circling the axle almost like when tightening lug nuts. If you can angle the chisel slightly towards the outside do so as you tap it off. Once you have a gap, use a puller or just keep tapping on the race to remove it. Just make sure not to scar the stub axle with the chisel etc.

Second option - If it will not move, get a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and VERY carefully cut though the race at an angle ( because of tool access ) making sure not to cut through and into the stub axle. Once you have the slot almost through the old race there will be a little bit near the back corner near the oil seal shoulder that you can't get without cutting the axle. Use a chisel in the cut slot to finish cutting / pop the race apart and maybe get it to spin on the axle allowing removal.

Did you get new seals as well ? I would not trust a old one, if water gets in there goes your bearings again !

Cheers,
Brian

I'll try to find pictures later if needed.

 

Hi again, here are some pictures of my stub axle & carrier. One picture is before cleaning - you can see the burnished area where the inner race was spinning ( it grooved the bottom of the axle ), one is masked for painting, and the last with the new axle installed. You can see the water shield in all of them with the seal track area next to it ( the seal track and mounting area for the shield are all part of the carrier casting, the axle is a straight shaft more or less just taper fit into the carrier ).






Hope this helps,
Brian

 

Jag front wheel bearings from 1976ish, up to and INC X300 are all the same.for the outer


Timken L12749/10 for the outer,
L68148/10 for the inner.

Australian Numbers, maybe mean zero elsewhere??

ALL bearing have numbers stamped into the Cup and the Cone.

 

Good early morning everybody! We've been having a bit of rainy spell down south but after a couple weeks of gingerly waiting I was finally able to get away from the time clock and the rain and get everything back in order. While I was digging around I found a great deal on some good pre-owned calipers and decided to bite the bullet seeing as how the ones that were on there were pretty sketchy so the plan for today is to get them installed and get everything back together. Thanks so much everyone for all your invaluable insight and advice! Major props to kudzu and Doug for all the help and pictures!

I'm happy to report I've got the correct bearings installed on the passenger side and went ahead and changed out the seals on BOTH sides as had been suggested! Just gotta slap those calipers on later this evening and bleed the system and this big cat'll be ready for the road!.....

So long as it's a sunny day, of course. I still need to get those cursed wipers figured out

 

Doug bet me to it !! Not unusual here!!!

1. I was going to suggest fitting the new bearing to the shaft sans the hub, to check on the seating of it.

2. To my repaired eyes, the photos clear;ly show the race from the old bearing still in place!!!

3. Being a bit critical. I don't think too much of leaving the old outter race in the hub and reusing it. not thsat hard to use a punch and drive out the old and use a bearing seat tool or even the old race to drive the new one home. Just intuitive t me.
4. I join Doug in the hope tat the old inner race will come off sans a Battle Royale!!! Careful use of the blue wrench!!!!

5. Why should a supposedly simple task of bearing service become so messy..

Carl

 

Haha silly groggy me! I neglected to mention in the previous post, but I took everyone's advice here and went ahead and swapped both inner and outer bearings on both sides instead of reusing the older inner.

And the old race came off easily! The recommendation for the punch and a hammer worked perfectly!

So yeah, she's got all new bearings inner and outer as well as seals up front . And yes a simple job did blow up into something more complicated, but if I'm being totally honest I've NEVER done a full bearing replacement before, only ever replacing an outer on an old Chrysler haha. But this Jag is my weekend driver at most and is an awesome learning opportunity!