XJ6 4.2 FI Ignition Coil, which one??
 

My car just shut down the engine WHILE the car was driving in motion. Car has been a reliable 1980 xj6 s3 4.2L
fuel injected but today it just shut down.
Seems its the ignition coil, low spark almost none.
I note the ignition coil was leaking oil, research says this is terminal as the coil is shorted out, so I need a new one.
I THINK I need lucas DLB198 (12v designed for systems without ballastresistor).. but Im not sure if I have ballast resisitr setup or not.


Can I use ANY other type of ignition coil from the local auto shop?.. or are these things specific? Reason I ask is that the prices are huge here in Australia ($150) but they are cheap in the UK,,,,15 pounds $20).. but if I order from the UK I will be waiting a week.
regards
peter

forgot to ask how I can see if its a ballast resistor system or not
regards
Peter

When used, the ballast resistor on the 4.2 Ser IIIs was attached directly to the "+" post of the coil. You can't miss it.

Conventional wisdom over the years is that any 12v coil with about 1.0 ohm primary resistance will do the trick. Nothing exotic required.

My personal favorite for the Ser III is the DLB170...which is actually a V12 coil.

Cheers
DD

mine too!

I use a Fuel Miser CC215.

Have done on many over the years.

As Doug said, if that ballast is clearly visible alongside the coil, and in the +ve lead, simply remove it, and attach that supply lead direct to +ve of the new coil.

In Sydney, the likes of AutoBArn, SuperCheap, Repco, etc should have that coil in stock. About $45.

Grant
I picked up a BOSCH GT40R ignition coil... The auto parts store said it would be ok ....the packaging says " use GT40R for all standard coils fitted with ballast resistors"
Now im not sure if I have a ballast resistor or not as the wiring was redone there around the coil years ago.
Is this coil ok irrespective of whether I have a ballast resistor in the wiring or not?


Sad to say the car didn't start with the new coil, so I put it on a truck and brought her home......it may be a deeper electrical problem, maybe the ignition amplifier, im still doing research... I know I don't have spark, fuel pump is ok, (fuel cut off switich checked also, its ok, pump works while cranking).
Its the strangest thing, the car just shut off while motoring.


Apart from the BOSCH coil being appropriate, is there an altrernative to the OE ignition amplifier unit incase its the culprit..OEM is pricey.


regards
Peter

That GT40r is a points spec coil, and is not suitable for use with that amp/module.

Echlin make a module (TP45B), and that is what I use, but it has been a very long time since I have needed one, and Echlin is a no show in Australia these days.

Fuel Miser make one, but I cannot remember their part number at the moment. IM410 comes to mind, BUT dont quote me on that. I will try and find a number and post back.

Grant
silly question, what s a point spec? The autoshop said this would be ok, but the car didn't start with it, si im not sure.
Would sure appreciate your advice.
This Bosch looks just like the DLB198 lucas one that was in the car.


Which one can I buy from supercheap/autobarn etc?


bets regards
Peter

Found it.

CM410 is the module.

CC215, or, CC213 is the coil. I use the CC215, as we have them at work, so readily available. They read 0.9 OHMS, so just sweet for that module. They are also listed as a "Universal Electronic Ignition System" coil.

Tried to copy the image from the catologue, but it dont work.

Peter,

I do this too many times. I have been in the Auto Spare Parts game for 50 years as of 3 weeks ago, and I talk that language more than Aussie, sad I know, but life goes on.

Points spec = Contact Points ignition system, from the days when cars were SIMPLE. Commonly, that coil had an OHM reading of 1.2++++, and the coils of choice were:

GT40, non ballast system.
GT40r, for ballast resistor systems.

Quantum leap of technology, electronic ignition.

Electronic systems of the early days (Valiant etc) were ballast assisted. This was mainly due to the coil technology available at that time. This changed in about 1983 in OZ, with the Commodore Electronic HIGH Energy system.

Electronic coils generally have an OHM of 0.9 or lower. There will be exceptions, and that I will leave out for simplicity.

That coil SHOULD have fired the Jag, but would be putting a hell of a load on teh module (it will get HOT).

If the car failed to fire up, I suspect that the original coil (leaking) has shorted out, and damaged the module, sort of a Domino (not the pizza) effect.

If you need more clarification, ASK, I dont bite.

Can anyone confirm the BOSCH GT40R ignition coil as being appropriate for the s3 xj6?
Im having my doubts as someone mention it may not be.
regards
Peter

Grant
seems we posted at the same time..so I didnt see your response.
Are those part numbers fuel miser part numbers?


I see in the BOSCH catalogue that GT40R is NOT listed for the s3, but it is for the other jags before and after it. Will take it back and look for the fuel miser ones
Peter

Grant
for the ignition amplifier, you mentioned CM410, heres the image of it Fuelmiser Ignition Module CM410
but it looks completely different to the jaguar ignition amplifier here
Jaguar XJ Series 3, XJS Ignition Amplifier (DAC4104-O) - JustJagsUK.com
Does cm410 replace the above?
Peter

Peter,

The CM, and CC numbers are Fuel Miser numbers.

I agree with your findings that Bosch do not list a coil of any kind for the S3 6 cylinder, and never have.

Motospecs are the wholesaler for FuelMiser, and Motospecs is part of the Repco group.

ATAP also supply FuelMiser, and they are owned by AutoBarn.

OK.

That Amplifier is the WHOLE shooting match, and Mega $$.

That module is INSIDE that amplifier, and easily replaced. About $50 the last time I needed one.

grant
if your in the auto parts game, set up a website, I would have ordered from you as you know jags!
peter

AAAHHH...ok now I get it! I didn't know that module was inside the amplifier. Last time I took it out it was a closed metal casing, so I guess it needs to be opened up to install that module. The amplifier is $$$ as you say , goes for $300-$200 overseas!.


Set up a website Grant, you will have my orders online.$10 freight from adeliade to Sydney.
I will return this bosch coil and get the fuel miser one al;ong with the module.


MANY thanks comrade Grant! Will post how it all goes.
best regards
Peter

the Ignition Module in the Series 3 Jaguar XJ-6 is a GM-Delco part, and certainly not $300. USD.

whether the car was shipped to Africa, Australia, or America, these cars are loaded with GM (General Motors US) parts.

The cutting-out of the engine while driving, as if the ignition key might have been turned to "OFF" might be the Ignition Switch itself becoming worn out inside, a known issue.

Jose
I see prices of around $200+ for those ignition amplifiers. The module i see for $30.
Youre lucky in the US, parts are cheap, more so in the UK, but not here in Australia.
Then again you can buy a jag in the UK for $1000 yet here its $20,000 or the same car. Its ridiculously expensive here in comparison.


Yes the car just shut down the engine while driving, the lights were still on, its like the ignition key was in 1st position prior to cranking.
Anyways, the car would crank straight after when I tried to restart it, but didn't start.


Since it cranks, yet dosnt start I think its not the ignition switch being worn out as the cranking is connected to the starting procedure. I would be happy to be wrong if someone corrects me.


regards
Peter

Apart from the ignition coil, the ignition amplifier is an area to consider.
What else should I consider, can anyone advise?


I substituted the battery, fuel pump works while cranking.


regards
Peter