@Lady Fairweather

RaceDiagnostics has a thread going in the XK/XKR section where he removes rust
by soaking in citric acid. It shows good results. Another alternative is vinegar.

For the windshield, you could improve the situation with black windshield sealant and
masking tape. Mask both the rubber and the sheetmetal with the edge of one strip of
masking tape at the edge of the rubber and the edge of the other strip of masking tape
just under the edge of the rubber. Lift the rubber all around with suitable shims such as
doubled up popsicle sticks. Apply sealant all around removing shims as you go and
smoothing with a finger. Wait a couple of minutes, remove all masking tape. Let dry
without disturbing. You now have a perfect seal that hardly shows.

 

A brown box mysteriously appeared on the front porch while everyone was gone yesterday. THE FLOOR PAN ARRIVED!

Source:
Wolf Steel Enterprises
1 Ballerina Rd.
Freleighsberg, Quebec J0J 1C0
Canada
450.298.5078

This is the half length version and it measures 32 inches long, 17-1/2 inches to the first break on the wide end, 13-1/2 inches to the first break on the narrow end. They also sell a full length version which I don't need as the back floor is Pristine.

As promised the captive nuts are present for the gas pedal mount and there is 1/2 inch of extra material to allow for lap welding.

The Welder stopped by to have a look last night and gave me some hints how to cut the existing floor to make it easier for him to put this into place. He's confident he can do the job in a couple hours once I get all the carpet and 'stuff' out of the way.

I would like to have it in tomorrow (no impatience here!) but it's only early November, I have lots to do before the car is Even ready for this, and there's lots of time.
(';')

 

Thank you, Plums,
I'm thinking the car's Alternative name might be Lady Fairweather as she spends all but the most sunny days sleeping snug in her room whereas I'm out in it rain or shine.

I'll look for the thread you mention, but I like your idea of Naval Jelly better at this time. After I use it I might not, but I want to at least give it a try.

I'm not familiar with the windshield sealer you mention. Is it like a thin silicone? I've attached a picture of the area under suspicion, on the top curve. You can see where someone in the past has tried using silicone before and the rubber simply shrank away from it.
(';')

 

I decided that today was the day I would have the left front floor stripped of all its carpet and padding, and anything else flammable so I know the true extent of the damage. To do that the console had to come out so I could get the carpet and padding from under it.

It was not the easy job I envisioned. I knew all the switches had to come out, but I forgot since I stripped a S-III junker a year ago that the wires were individually placed. Labeling bundles for each switch and mapping the wires on the back took considerable time. Some wires were tied between switches, but fortunately none were left hanging.

Of course I encountered a multitude of vampire clips, which I left alone as I have NO idea what they're for. There was also an abundance of abandoned wires that obviously used to be for something but there's no telling what at this time. I imagine something didn't work correctly so they wired around a fuse. I don't Even want to talk about all the hidden fuses! What were they thinking?? One of the surprises was the number of wires with a factory label; Hot power tap, test wire and a few others I couldn't see due to the angle and depth of burial.

When I finally got to working on the remaining padding there were more surprises, as some of you probably already know. For example, the attachment point of the A-Pillar to the frame member has more rust! Not the flaky kind like on the floors, there's just a hole where the two have stopped holding hands. It appears to be a very old injury though, partially healed and not bright orange anymore. I'm sure it can be welded up with no trouble.

Most of what I've taken apart to this point is relatively easy to put back. I've been into the cheeks before and I didn't do anything unfamiliar this time. I haven't had this console off, but I found what I need to fix (fiber optic light source, reverse light switch, compressor wire), all easy to access and hopefully easy to modify.
(';')

 

You were lucky, although it may not feel like it now.
When I start on the XJC you'll see how rotten a jag can get!!

Get as much done as possible now to save the time stripping it again later, it's hard work.

Have you got the new floor pan yet. I'm assuming it's the same as supplied by David Manners, but would be interested to see it.

 

Thank you, anjum,
S.Bunzel has a thread in here about rebuilding his rusted Xj6, which he calls, "the biggest rust bucket in Jaguar history." https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...project-92771/ He is virtually rebuilding the whole entire car including what passes for an outer frame and the bit that holds the IRS!

Mine isn't nearly as bad even as some others I've seen in here but I didn't expect the front passenger floor and I certainly didn't expect this mess with the A-pillar!! It's that unexpected stuff that has me a bit upset.

I do indeed have the floor pan. I posted about it when it arrived above in reply #22
I also posted where it came from. Husband test fitted it today as I have enough extraneous trash out of the way. It's Plenty too big, which is exactly as promised! There will be No trouble welding it into place.

Yes, I'm doing as much as possible now. I don't want to take all this apart again! I'm finding so many surprises in the console as mentioned.

I have a list of things to do while I have the console apart. I've found all the bits I want to change, repair, readjust or modify. Because of this floor thing and the need to take Everything apart to fix it I'll also be posting about those sub projects.
(';')

 

The windshield sealant is available in clear or black in Permatex brand. Right next to
the usual gasket sealants, etc. A cross between yellow peril and silicone, it is slightly less
glossy than silicone.

From the picture, you would have to carefully excavate the existing repair job with a
razor knife, then apply much less this time. The goal is for the sealant to seal without
showing. Then you don't have peel problems because there is no exposed edge to
lift.

Just like bathtub cauking ... less is more.

 

Oooh man!! LnrB


I thought that it would only be the two floorpan's that I needed to replace!! but was I wrong!!!


Don't look for rust else where, that you aren't prepared to repair.


Best regards
Stig

 

Don't know why I missed that pic!!

Many years ago I bought a couple of floor pans for my first XJC project (which got stolen before I got back on the road) from David Manners. Looked like SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

I remember that thread as well and I was watching with interest I think it's a competition as to which one is rustier but I think mine has the edge . Stig what's the latest news on your restoration, brilliant work going on there.

The floorpans are about the last major panels I need to procure, but wanted the best quality/ fit ones so any info is useful, thanks.

 

Thank you, Plums,
The silicone products I've ever dealt with require absolute cleanliness and sterility before application. I'm sure I won't be able to get 40 years of dirt out of that void, but if it also has some characteristics of "yellow peril" it might stick anyway.

That's definitely on my hit list for tomorrow.
(';')

 

Hi, Stig!
After I first found the rust under the driver floor I poked around vigorously at all the places you found rust, most especially the IRS mounting points. They are sound as are the front suspension mounting points.

There us a small blister on the right rear fender flare that was there when I got the car but I treated it with my favorite snake oil and it hasn't grown in a year. I *Never* drive it in the rain or even on wet roads so I don't expect any deterioration in the body after I deal with the evaporator drains.

I have to say, after I mentioned to anjum about your thread I went to look again. Your floors weren't Nearly as flaky as mine are!! I'll fix those as they're a Major safety issue (I have no desire to fall through the floor in a tight turn) but I have no plans to actually go looking for more trouble. If I happen upon it that's one thing, but trouble always finds those who go looking for it.

How is your car coming? It's been several months since you posted an update.
(';')

 

Well, I feel fortunate as rust isn't my issue. Only the "no crank" thing at present. Whether, I will get at it today or procrastinate not yet determined, and if so the extent of it.


On another forum, a guy enthralled us with his rust fixes on a pair or more of the cats. A nuclear engineer by trade, no less!!


His S3 was on a par or worse than Bunzel's!!! He acquired a MIG and commenced to learn it's use on his cars. the first efforts were on a par with mine, lousy! But, he improved steadily.


The most memorable was the rebuild of a rear attachment on the floor panel for the IRS. Build would be a better term as the original was almost non'-existant.
he applied the same technique as in building tanks for nucleur coolers. Bent strips of metal applied verticaly to form the cone. Absolutely, the pinnacle of his learning.


Too bad, hasn't posted for a long time.


Carl

 

Hi LnrB


I made an update a few days ago ;-) just follow you link.


And you are right about "but trouble always finds those who go looking for it" but that is my daily job, somehow i can't stop when I'm off LoL


And I don't want to scare you or anyone else :-)


I really hope that you don't find more rust.


Best regards


Stig

 

As neither of us works Fridays, and it rained yesterday and over night, and my camera died unexpectedly after a mere 12 years of heavy use, we took the morning off and went camera shopping.

As , a working camera is a total must. The hunt was successful! I don't think it's as high a quality as the Olympus but it was a Whole lot less expensive!

Anyway after we got home husband asked if I would mind if he started cutting out the floor. I know the right answer to that, "No, I don't mind at all if you cut out that panel."

I have mixed feelings about him doing things like that because he gets so focused that he ignores everything else. The steel dust was thick in the shop outside the car, there was a layer on everything inside the car!

I covered the console but I'll still have to take my hepa certified vacuum to everything to get all that conductive steel dust out.

I was encouraged to see the rot wasn't as extensive as I feared. Only the forward third of the floor is damaged/destroyed but he cut out plenty anyway. The patch will have to go up the bulkhead about an inch at the gas pedal but that will be easy I think.

Anyway, things are moving ahead and progress is being made.
(';')

 

I know, just ask the forum arsonist/photo junkie.

If you want a fire near(or in it) it or a photo of it,just ask me.

 

LnrB:


Now you've aroused the instincts of my former profession. Those slick little icons hide the text as to why you need a camera and what you bought to replace the trusty Olympus.


As to sealing the window. Dig and scrape and use that HEPA vac to ull out the detritus. Too bad Ice picks have gone the way of buggy whips. They had many other uses other than chipping ice! But, a good awl would work. Or an old slender shank screwdriver. Bend a hook on the end and sharpen it, ie, dentist style pick. Ouch, the thought hurts.


Carl

 

Lnr, thanks for the detail and pics. Did you ascertain that the leak was from the windshield only, or were there other factors in play like heater matrix, or blocked evaporator drains? If you've got pics of evap drains that wou,d be very helpful.

On your choice of rust sealant/preventive, did you research tne Eastwood product line and POR15 against CorosionBlock? Those are the products i I usually find most muscle car guys using.

 

Thank you, Warlock, and you're welcome.

I tested the windshield and it was in fact leaking Very badly. In fact, the water was running inside like there was no gasket at all! I'm not especially worried about that as I don't drive it in the rain anyway, but someone did in the past.

Also, the floor is most damaged where the driver's feet rest, especially around the gas pedal. I know from past experience that's the first place to show damage.

I'm positive the matrix isn't leaking. I've had a heater core spring a leak and there's no doubt what's happened. The cabin gets steamy, the windows fog up and the demister only adds to the problem. Add to that, the unmistakable smell of ethylene glycol.

I haven't checked out the evaporator drains yet. It's on my list, but right now the floor under the car is scattered with bits of car floor. I'll probably wait until I drain the transmission and I'm down there anyway to run a coat hanger up the drains.

I'm completely unfamiliar with POR15. The first I knew of it was Debbie's mention of its use on her Xj12.

Somehow I missed reference to Eastwood. I know Corrosion Block has worked for me in the past, on my work truck for example, but it's Very messy. I doubt I'll use it on the new floor pan; I'll probably use epoxy primer.
(';')

 

Carl, I put that string of icons there instead of text. How could I show what I'm doing without a camera? Costco had all their holiday cameras out to sell, one of which was a Panasonic DNC-ZS35. Now you know exactly, don't you! LOL
Panasonic DMC-ZS35K - LUMIX DMC-ZS35 20X Long-Zoom Selfie Digital Camera - Black

It was on sale for less than $200.

Thank you for the suggestions how to fix the leak. I'll work on the windshield leak with the car is off the jack stands and at an easier height to work on it.

True, one can hardly buy an ice pick now, I haven't seen one since my grandmother's. But we have a nice selection of Harbor Freight picks; some straight, some 90 bends, some pig tail curves, but all very useful for getting into tight spaces.

Picture below.
(';')

 

Today, before he cut any more of the floor pan away husband put a couple more jacks under the body just in case. One is under the A-pillar and one is under what passes for a frame member beside the bell housing.

Then he dug out some tools he bought on a whim one time, thinking they might be handy some day. They're called Clecos; magnetic studs that sort of hold metal bits together for fitting. He used them to position an angle reinforcement on the tunnel that will support the new pan and address the weak spot right at the gas pedal. (Got that idea from Stig Bunzel) More of the old pan needs removed obviously as there would be a Huge rust nursery between the two sheets if left as it is.

Finally, he and the neighbor cut the pan to its final shape and size and it lies in place Just Right! A short flat piece still needs to be fitted on the bulkhead.

Everything is still in "dry fit" mode. There's still the matter of old undercoating to remove before any welding is done.
(';')