50 Shades Of Grey Won't Start!
 

Long Story Short:

Alternator Drive Belt Broke and then the Engine Cut Out

Replaced the Drive Belt, Engine Still won't Start

Got 50 Shades Back to 'Orange Blossom Towers' on a Trailer and thought that the Broken Drive Belt may have damaged the VR Sensor on the CPS 'Crank Position Sensor'

Removed and cleaned the CPS put on a Fully Charged Battery and decided to turn the Key just to see what would happen where to my total astonishment She Started on the Button and ran for 10 Minutes! Yass!!!!!

But then the Engine suddenly died on me just like before! OMG Oh noooo!

Though just before that happened I saw a Blink from the Immobilizer just for a Nano Second

So then I tried her again only this time as soon as I saw the Red Light Blink on the Immobilizer, I joggled the Dongle around and in doing so I was able to keep her running!

Does anyone know how I can disarm the Immobilizer permanently, as it has been a real PIA ever since I bought the Car and causing all sorts of problems like refusing to Start after filling up with Petrol

Where the Siren 'Thingy' keeps going off unexpectedly

I just want to get rid of the thing, its more trouble than it is worth

Any ideas?

OB
In principle, they all work the same. Behind the steering column/wheel plastic, around the igniton lock there will be a loop aerial which recognises the dongle. In most cases (maybe yours maybe not, but most cases) this will be connected to a black box-type thing (might have to remove the lower dash to see it, might not) and that box will be connected to two or so wires in the loom circuit where it plugs into the ignition switch plug. You may well see the loom having been cut and the circuit to the black box spliced into it. If so, just join the original cut loom wires back up and remove the black box and aerial bits. Worth looking anyway.

Hi Greg

Cheers!

That makes sense but on this 1989 the Steering Column and ignition lock are quite a long way apart, so it looks like some serious dismantling may be on the cards

This Immobilizer appears to have some sort of fault and as such is blinking dangerous, as it can cut out the Engine while you are driving along without any Warning

I've never seen an immobilizer so don't really know what I'm looking for, so does anyone have a Photo or installation Instructions?

OB
Diagram attached. The black box is actually a switch that is activated by the dongle. If switched, it connects the wires. If not the ignition switch remains isolated from the ignition and the pump. If you look behind wherever the dongle has to be near (ignition switch?), you will find the loop aerial, and follow this to the black box which could be stuffed into a corner anywhere in the area. Here you will see the loom wires going into and out of the black box, Just reconnect the original colours on the original loom.

Hi Greg

You missed your Vocation, that diagram should be hanging on the Wall of the National Gallery or the Tate Modern along with the likes of people like Damien Hirst

Although the moment that I saw it I was thinking after the School of Leonardo Da Vinci it really is that good! and if you ever decide to bring it out as a limited edition, then you can put my name down for one

Where by way of a bit of a Bonus, it also tells me exactly what I need to know, so I will start around the Cowl of the Steering Column and go from there

Thanks again Greg

ALex

Well done Greg.

That sure beats cutting brambles with the chainsaw hands down.

Definately a valued chart for anyone with aftermarket imobilisers on an XJS.

Mine had a No Go Imobiliser and day 1 it did as 50 shades did, NO BLOODY GO, so I waded around under the dash, and the myriad of wires, Scotch Locks, and untaped splices was just INSANE. Coupla beers and it was all in the trash can, back to basics, luv it. Did not weigh the junk removed, but 2kgs would be close.

Hi Grant

Stop me if I'm doing this wrong but if I find the Magnetic Aerial 'Thingy' and cut that out and then joined those two wires together would that not have the same effect?

Did you have to pull the Speedo Binnacle out when you did yours, or did you get to it underneath?

Alex,

I doubt it very much.

Most of those type of systems rely on all sections doing what they should before the next section complies, and eventually the system disarms/arms, whatever is demanded.

My No Go had a round probe type key that was inserted into a socket that disarmed the system, and re-armed when removed.

Most systems, like yours, have the splicing done in the short pigtail wiring loom from the switch TO the main loom connector. About 7" or so long. This is the area that these installers weave their magic. Re-instating that to Factory would be step 1 in my opinion. Then tracing and removing all the NONE factory wiring, and the Siren etc from the car.

Hi Grant

'Gregs' drawing is Ace! if only all manuals could be as easy to follow as that (Cheers Greg)

It has taken forever to remove all the Insulation Tape that was put in by the Alarm Installer and a right mess it looked too, which was also a bit of a bonus as I could see what he did

Its an absolute Rats Nest of Wires in there but only Three Original Wires seem to perform any function, so I'm working on the theory that the more wires there are the more they can Charge to install it

I think our Homemade Anti Theft devices are 10 times more effective and so much harder to beat than the one that the previous owner of '50 Shades' must have paid around £500 for

Can't hang upside down anymore, work will continue Tomorrow

You should see what I can do when I use my right hand:

Blinkin Heck Greg!

That's just too Cool for School! :icon_worthy: