Hi JB

A lot of guys use a kit like that and it's always worth doing if the Hoses haven't been changed for a while or have started to go hard, although alternatively you can buy yourself a length of Top Quality Fuel Hose and then cut some pieces to length

Which is obviously going to be a lot less expensive from your local Hydraulic Shop

As for your other problem best to follow that advice from Jig Jag, as I can't remember anyone on this Forum ever having had that kind of problem before on a Lucas Car and Jig Jags Read the Book and Got the 'T' Shirt

 

I should have that ECU next week to test. I've been reading a lot about this. If the resistor is bad it can cause damage to the ECU. I don't want to damage another ECU if that's the problem.
Does anybody know how to test the resistor to see if it's good or not?

Also for that fuel injector rebuild kit, it includes more than just the fuel line. It includes washers, o-rings, etc. Is that stuff all worth replacing?

I also want to do a full tune up. As long as I'm taking it all apart I might as well. I also want to remove the valve covers and put new seals on them.
When I have the valve covers off is there anything I should do to the exposed valves?

Can anybody recommend the best plugs, wires, distributor, rotor, etc. replacements I should use. Is there anything else I should be replacing, cleaning, etc.

I would like to flush out the oil completely and get any sludge out of the engine. What's the best way to do it on this engine.

Also I was thinking about replacing the EGR valve, and the pcv(in case it's bad as the amount of oil in the air filter boxes makes me think it is). Is there anything else I should replace?

Thanks,
JB

 

Hi JB

If the price of that Kit doesn't faze you then I would go with that, although some more seasoned campaigners may prefer to reuse the ferules and just buy a length of Fuel Hose

Although the Injector seals will need replacing, which I believe are included in that Kit

As for Spark Plugs nothing fancy just use NGK and I am using NGK BR7EF as I've found that these work best in my Marelli Car but Greg and Grant are the experts here, as they have lots of experience with their Lucas Cars

With regard to the 'Dizzy' Rotor and Plug Leads, I am still using everything that was on the Car when I bought her, as She always Starts first time and runs like a bird

The only thing that I have changed is the Spark Plugs

As for Oil that's one thing I don't skimp on and always change it every year regardless, even if I've only done a Couple of Thousand miles and always put on a New Filter and so for me Flushing the Oil doesn't really enter the Equation

Though Greg and Grant are the guys that can advise you on that

 

1) Never seen a bad resistor pack, EVER. EFI loom shorting out, hell yes, but even that does not harm the resistor pack.

2) YES.

3) NO. Just ensure the gaskets are the LATEST spec, as in 6ltr spec, Gortex style, and liberally coat the "D" seals with Hi-Temp RTV when fitting them. DO NOT overtighten the camcover bolts, you have been warned.

4)CLEAN the V, then CLEAN it again. Anything left floating in there WILL drop inside the engine, and basically screw your day. I always run NGK BPR6EF spark plugs.I know the listing states BR6EF, but the "P" projected nose plugs work so well for me, I will not change. Lucas cap and rotor= Echlin EP64 and EP65, made in USA, and have served me well. Leads, STANDARD diameter Magnecor brand leads, and ensure they supply a 90degree plug end with 1A 1B, 6A, 4B, life wilj be easier.

5) Drop the oil, refill with the CHEAPEST on sale, and a new filter, add 1ltr of ATF, so 9ltr engine oil, 1ltr ATF, run the engine at idle for about 30 minutes, DO NOT drive the thing, just go away and wait. Drain the oil as hot as you can tolerate without burning yourself, and let it drain for an hour or 2, new filter, new proper spec oil, enjoy.

6) No idea on EGR, I doubt it has one. PCV, clean in a jar of petrol for a day or 2. Remove the rubber elbow on the snout of the B Bank cyl head, remove the filter in there, and throw it away. Refit that elbow, if its OK, or fit a new one.

7) Drink beer.

 

FYI, those seals in the injector kit are for sealing the injector body into the manifold properly. The old ones will be hard and must be replaced if you want a nicely idling engine and no leaks. While you have it all apart, renew everything you can!

 

Ok, so a couple of things...(so frustrating).

When I pulled the ECU out to test it, I got the exact same one, same model, etc. Of the different ECU's for this car there were various DAC numbers. I found this all out from an article I read after I ordered everything. The article is here LUCAS EFI / AJ6 Engineering and below is what it says is the correct DAC# for each type of XJS. I have a Lucas ignition with a Cat. The DAC that came out of the car was a DAC 6337 for a Marelli ignition with Cat. So the wrong ECU DAC was in it and I replaced it with the same wrong one...

4118, 4585, 6335 - Lucas ignition, Cat
4119, 4478, 4586, 6336 - Lucas ignition, non-Cat
6337 - Marelli ignition, Cat
6338 - Marelli ignition, non-Cat

Since it still doing the exact same thing(cold exhaust on drivers side), would the wrong DAC# cause it to only fire one bank?

There is what looks like a vacuum line going to the ECU. The vacuum line came loose so I removed the battery holder(nightmare) to see what was going on. The vacuum line goes to what looks like a plastic bulb, then the line continues down and goes to a fitting on below where the battery is. There is oil coming out of that fitting (pictures below). Should there be oil in that line? What does it mean if there is?

I also saw a plastic electrical fitting along with an extra wire that was dangling and not hooked up to anything (pictures below). What is that? What does it connect to?

Copper fitting that hose from ECU plugs into. There is oil in it.

Fitting from further away. As well as part of the fuel pump/sump.

The copper fitting end of the hose that goes into the ECU. As you can see there's oil in the hose as well. You can also see the where the two hoses go together.

Picture of hose from side.

Red plastic electric fitting and additional wire just hanging in trunk next to battery. Not connected to anything.

Here is the same red plastic connector and additional wire from side angle so you can see the color of the wires going in.
Could that cause a problem?

I've decided to take the fuel rail off and test all of the spark plugs, check them to see if there's oil in them as there's a lot of oil leaking all over the place in my car. I'm gonna do a compression test as well, then decide how to proceed. Is there anyplace I can found out the procedure for properly removing the rail, testing the plugs, firing order, and all of that? I have the Kirby's manual. Is there another or different Jaguar manual online or something/someplace else I should be looking before I blindly just start pulling stuff apart?

Thanks.

 

Thoughts in some sort of order as coffee sorts the cells.

1) Maybe your car WAS a Marelli car, and someone has converted it to Lucas, there was a LOT of that going on a good few years back, and that would answer, MAYBE, the odd ECU in that particular car.

2) Oil in that VAC line, NO, so you will need to disconnect it CAREFULLY from the engine balance pipe, place rags in the boot to protect the carpets, and using a solvent cleaner, flush that line with compressed air. ANY oily muck in there WILL upset the vac signal to any ECU fitted.

3) No idea on that plug, except relationship to #1 above.

4) Removing that rail is straight forward enough, and following your nose is a good plan. I would not test spark plugs, simply renew them.

5) Firing order 1A 6B 5A 2B 3A 4B 6A 1B 2A 5B 4A 3B, simple. The Lucas cap will have a #1 cast in the top, adjacent to a post, this IS 1A, and then work Anti-Clockwise from there, as looking at the TOP of the cap.

6) Get some magnetic dishes, and place EVERYTHING is these dishes WELL CLEAR of the engine bay.
BEFORE you lift anything off, COUNT the washers, screws, nuts, even the tools, then COUNT IT AGAIN. Anything you leave sitting around WILL drop down one of the open holes, and screw your day seriously.
BEFORE removing a spark plug, VAC out the "V", and then look with a strong torch, and make 110% that area is clean of any debris.

 

Thanks,

It has a Lucas cap, lucas amp, etc. I'm pretty sure it's all Lucas. I took it to a place called GLB years ago. I wonder if they replaced the original ECU with the one in it now that was designed for a Marelli ignition. I read in Kirby that the Lucas ignition cars were 12 cylinders engines that were treated as a 12 cylinder car treated like a true V12, but the Marelli ignition was actually treated as two seperate 6 cylinder engines. I was wondering if because the mapping of the fuel would be so different that I haven't had both sides working for a long time(I rarely drove the car over the past 15 years) and eventually it caused a breakdown on one side, the cat melted, or who knows. Does that make any sense? Could putting DAC 6335 instead of the 6337 that's in there now cause the other bank to kick on?

Thanks

 

Very doubtfull, even when intoxicated.

Both systems fire the Injectors in 4 groups of 3.

1a,3a,5a
2a 4a 6a
1b,3b 5b
2b,4b,6b.

NOT sequential in any meaning of that word.

 

mystery plug may be the feedback monitor socket, not normally connected. Just a guess since my own car is non cat.

 

New plugs etc all a good idea. Compression test a waste of time IMO, it will not be the reason an entire bank is not firing. What I still do not really know, and forgive me if I am mistaken, is this:

1. have you definitively tested each HT cable at the sparkplug end for spark?
2. have you found wet plugs on the non firing side?

Being 100% sure abut the basics is the key to sorting this problem. Depending upon the answers to 1 and 2 following a logical path comes next.

 

Yeah,,, this is a great thread (I've been away from the XJS site working on an 86 porsche 928 a while) but it seems like TorT is drifting pretty far away from the original problem. The passenger side half of the the V12 not firing... TorT,,, keep it simple,,, or these V12 XJS's will have you running in 1000 different directions.

Q: Are you getting spark and fuel into the cylinders on that half of the engine? - would be my only concern - first...

 

Hi this and that did you ever get to the bottom of it ?
thanks bob

 

Folks here will jump all over it. If you haven't already I would suggest starting a thread of your OWN and get very specific about what you are experiencing and what you car is or isn't doing...! Friendly advice 😊