Can you Lubricate the 'AAV' without taking it out of the Car?
Duplicate Post for some reason, perhaps a MOD can remove this one.
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Easy one Al.
Remove that hose from the back of the LH air cleaner that travels TO the AAV inlet. TAKE CARE of the PLASTIC elbow in that hose, thay do break just by looking at the damn things, then spray some WD40, RP7, whatever inside that inlet snout. Refit that hose. I seriously doubt it will help anything, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. |
Originally Posted by Grant Francis
(Post 1441750)
Easy one Al.
Remove that hose from the back of the LH air cleaner that travels TO the AAV inlet. TAKE CARE of the PLASTIC elbow in that hose, thay do break just by looking at the damn things, then spray some WD40, RP7, whatever inside that inlet snout. Refit that hose. I seriously doubt it will help anything, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do. I'll give it a burl. |
Do NOT use WD40 as a lubricant, it is a water displacer and WILL get hard over a short period of time, the AAV is in an enclosed place and not the place you want to gum up. WD40 Contains solvents which initially act as a lubricant but WD40 contains no oils or grease and will gum up in short order especially when in a hot environment.
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Alan
As you know, I have replaced my AAV with a solenoid cabin switch activated extra air device. BUT, I have recently bought some molybdenum and nickel based grease (a bit like super duty copper ease) at huge expense. This stuff is used in nuclear power stations and is rated to remain working at over 1300 degrees. If I had known about it before, I would have given my AAV one last chance and R&R'd it with this stuff greasing the cylinder, as even in death valley it should not dry out or go solid, and it sticks like S to a B on any metal it is applied to. I think there is a very good chance an AAv will never seize again if treated with this stuff. You will be pleased to learn I used it on the caliper/steering arm/upright bolt when I fitted new brakes last year. I hope never to have to cut off a steering arm again! When I change my plugs later this year, I am going to apply it to the threads and see how it fares at the following plug change. Molyslip Greg |
Originally Posted by Greg in France
(Post 1441881)
Alan
As you know, I have replaced my AAV with a solenoid cabin switch activated extra air device. BUT, I have recently bought some molybdenum and nickel based grease (a bit like super duty copper ease) at huge expense. This stuff is used in nuclear power stations and is rated to remain working at over 1300 degrees. If I had known about it before, I would have given my AAV one last chance and R&R'd it with this stuff greasing the cylinder, as even in death valley it should not dry out or go solid, and it sticks like S to a B on any metal it is applied to. I think there is a very good chance an AAv will never seize again if treated with this stuff. You will be pleased to learn I used it on the caliper/steering arm/upright bolt when I fitted new brakes last year. I hope never to have to cut off a steering arm again! When I change my plugs later this year, I am going to apply it to the threads and see how it fares at the following plug change. Molyslip Greg I would go and buy some but I've got another problem now! See new post. |
can you not use cpperslip for some reason?
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I've never had any success in lubricating an AAV. It's an aluminium piston in an aluminium bore and it corrodes over time. Really needs to be taken apart and cleaned to make it work, and of course taking it apart destroys the wax bulb. They used to be available as a rebuild kit, but not any more.
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Originally Posted by brinny
(Post 1442095)
can you not use cpperslip for some reason?
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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
(Post 1442116)
I've never had any success in lubricating an AAV. It's an aluminium piston in an aluminium bore and it corrodes over time. Really needs to be taken apart and cleaned to make it work, and of course taking it apart destroys the wax bulb. They used to be available as a rebuild kit, but not any more.
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Originally Posted by orangeblossom
(Post 1442139)
Any Chance of a Pic or diagram, I cannot really imagine what that may look like.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by orangeblossom
(Post 1442135)
Your guess is as good as mine, at the moment but introducing any sort of a metallic bearing substance, may not be a good idea.
The WoOZ has written a paper that explains how to repair the AAV without knackering the bulb. The Grant Francis explanation of how to do it works (of course!), I have taken mine apart and done it. Copperslip is good but not nearly as good as the Moly Nickelslip I posted as it will not withstand the heat nearly as well ! Greg |
Originally Posted by Greg in France
(Post 1442413)
Alan
The WoOZ has written a paper that explains how to repair the AAV without knackering the bulb. The Grant Francis explanation of how to do it works (of course!), I have taken mine apart and done it. Copperslip is good but not nearly as good as the Moly Nickelslip I posted as it will not withstand the heat nearly as well ! Greg Thanks But its not so bad at the moment that it needs a rebuild (as per the WOZ's instructions) It just 'sometimes' starts 'hunting' for a short while and then starts working properly, so I just wanted to try and lube it while in situ, without having to take it off the engine at this stage. Although of course I may have to, if it starts getting worse, which it doesn't seem to be doing at the moment. So this was in the nature of a bit of preventive 'stitch in time' type maintenance. |
New ones are available.
At a price. |
Biggest issue I see is getting that "rocket fuel" stuff into where it needs to be with the AAV intact, OR, still attached to the engine as Alan asked.
"Spray" stuff is the only hope, and I also said it is more than likely a total waste of time, except the "warm and fuzzies" that one gets from working on a V12. Most of these have an aluminium piston, some I have done have a Stainless piston. They all jam from the smallest grain of crap that gets in there. Sometimes reaching thru the top with a "hook" thingy, and hooking a hole in the piston, and working the piston manually against the spring has some success for a small time. This is what I did to the Red Devil in the very early days, until I cut one open and fixed it properly. Then I removed it totally the next time it jammed. Peace of mind, priceless. |
Originally Posted by Greg in France
(Post 1441881)
Alan
As you know, I have replaced my AAV with a solenoid cabin switch activated extra air device. BUT, I have recently bought some molybdenum and nickel based grease (a bit like super duty copper ease) at huge expense. This stuff is used in nuclear power stations and is rated to remain working at over 1300 degrees. If I had known about it before, I would have given my AAV one last chance and R&R'd it with this stuff greasing the cylinder, as even in death valley it should not dry out or go solid, and it sticks like S to a B on any metal it is applied to. I think there is a very good chance an AAv will never seize again if treated with this stuff. You will be pleased to learn I used it on the caliper/steering arm/upright bolt when I fitted new brakes last year. I hope never to have to cut off a steering arm again! When I change my plugs later this year, I am going to apply it to the threads and see how it fares at the following plug change. Molyslip Greg |
Originally Posted by Grant Francis
(Post 1442471)
Biggest issue I see is getting that "rocket fuel" stuff into where it needs to be with the AAV intact, OR, still attached to the engine as Alan asked.
"Spray" stuff is the only hope, and I also said it is more than likely a total waste of time, except the "warm and fuzzies" that one gets from working on a V12. Most of these have an aluminium piston, some I have done have a Stainless piston. They all jam from the smallest grain of crap that gets in there. Sometimes reaching thru the top with a "hook" thingy, and hooking a hole in the piston, and working the piston manually against the spring has some success for a small time. This is what I did to the Red Devil in the very early days, until I cut one open and fixed it properly. Then I removed it totally the next time it jammed. Peace of mind, priceless. It's not that bad at the moment, it only seems to happen on occasions, so what I was really after was a bit of preventative maintenance to try and make it work better before it got worse. |
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