The security handbook says to reset the system without having a fob, you need to unlock the driver's side door with your key, get inside and using the key turn the ignition switch from off to "II' position THREE times within 15 seconds. Do not turn the key to the start position until after you have completed that sequence.

 

Ok I tried that but still no start . Recharging the battery tonight and will give it a shot again tomorrow. Ordered another cps and found power at every fuse tested both sides

 

Jeff,

Your mechanic report indicates it's the CPS. But if you backprobe the relevant pins on the ECU plug as per the wiring diagram, you'll establish if it's the failure of an input signal to the ECU. If you don't have the diagram, it's here, Section 25. You'll see on the relevant page, all the input signals, and what values they should have when active.

http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa.../jvs1995en.pdf

Paul

 

Thanks Paul, yes i have this information. Looking at the diagram it seems power is supplied by a red wire at connection 23. How to “back probe” this is my next question. Do i just stick a test light into the back of the plug? Does the ignition need to be on in this case. I do seem to have power to fuses 7 and 14 as you suggested btw. I really appreciate your help on this as well as other members who have chimed in. I feel im getting close . Regards, Jeff

 

Jeff, your problem really bothers me. When I was a kid my father had a 1949 Pontiac in the garage that he could never get to start. I often think knowing what I know now that I could have gotten that car started and the fact that he never did rankles me to this day (I'm now 77). I've had my 96 in sleep mode since I've been traveling, but I'm going to fire it up in the next few days and then disconnect sensors one at a time to see which ones will cause it to stop running. I did that once before and as I remember one or two of them caused the engine to immediately shut down. I'll let you know what happens. If you had a lot of moisture in the car, I would still suggest checking out the relays in the circuits. The EMS power relay would be first on my list if I'm interpreting the wiring diagram correctly.

 

Jeff,

I may be wrong, but I don't think your problem lies with the EMS Power or ECM Controlled relays. You've implied your fuel pump works when engine is cranking. That implies to me that the EMS Power relay is working?

As suggested, I would just backprobe the ECU plug to check the input signal terminals. You need a multi-meter, not a test light, as the signals vary on different inputs, including AC voltage. Check the Inputs / Outputs values on the Fig 25 info page, find the relevant Input pin on the ecu plug, set your multimeter accordingly, use the multimeter _+ve lead ((you need a pin / probe / type lead), carefully push it into the back of the ecu plug relevant pin, and connect the other multimeter lead to earth (suggest using UECU pin LI189-36).

Start with the CPS signal input port (LI189-23). If that really checks out ok (needs to be measured with engine cranking), then go on to check the other input signals.

Good luck

Paul

 

I will attempt to do this . Thanks Paul

 

I went in to pin the 23 connector and found the mechanics pin still in there. So this leads me to believe his diagnostic did iclude checking for feed at that imput and perhaps their conclusion of a faulty cps is correct. I have ordered another hopefully better thabn the cheap one i bought on ebay. Thoughts?

 

I'd still check the reading when cranking against the voltage figure detailed on the Fig 25 diagrams to satisfy myself that it seems to be faulty. But if you've ordered another one anyway, you might as well fit it and see what happens!

Good luck

Paul

 

jagrepair.com has electrical diagrams, including telling you what each sensor is looking for, so that should be a big help, along with a multimeter!

 

Got that info thank you it has been very helpful

 

I started my 96 yesterday and started to remove connectors on the engine that send signals to the ECU. While some had no effect and some had noticeable effect, the engine shut down immediately when I disconnected the Mass Air Flow Sensor. This may be something that you want to ensure is working properly.

 

Ill take a closer look . I know i check the connection but maybe it need cleaning. Thank you

 

Yes, unplugging the MAF will kill the engine. If you had an OBD2 reader, you could read/see what the ECU was seeing. As long as the values don't zero out, it's not that important what they say. It should go up as you put your foot on the gas, and down when you let off. But as long as it's not hitting zero at idle, I could rule that out.

 

That would make sense but i cant get the engine to run yet

 

Have we checked the TPS with an OBD2 sensor? Even with the engine off, the OBD2 reader should (a) read that the TPS is there and (b) what % open it is at. At idle, it should read about 12.9%. Anything close will be fine.

I would think that you could remove the MAF, with it still plugged in and blow a fan through it, you could see if the OBD2 reader can see the MAF detect air?

You should also be able to see a coolant temperature.

The first two sensors are critical to startup and must be checked to cross them off the list. I'd feel much better about moving forward if we could at least definitively see that the the ECU can read these sensors, even with the engine off.

Since the mechanic said it wasn't detecting CKPS, I would certainly do a continuity test between the CKPS harness RED wire to Pin 23 and BLUE wire to Pin 26 on that Black Harness at the ECU. Let's be sure that the wires are fine.

Let's start definitively crossing things off!

 

I have a carsoft obd2 reader for jaguars., but how to do what you’re suggesting is beyond me as I haven’t done this before. Also since the car is typically not moving when you start it how does the maf actually work from intake pressure?

 

You would need a fan to blow air through the MAF. We just want to see if the numbers fluctuate.

 

Jeff,

As we've discussed, you must see the appropriate voltage signal at the ECU pin from the crank sensor. Whilst you can't see that, as per your mechanics diagnosis, the car will not start. Lets ensure you've got a working crank sensor before looking anywhere else.

Cheers

Paul

 

Order and installed another new crank sensor . Still no change so I’m glad I didn’t pay the $500 they wanted to replace a $30 part. They had returned the car to me without plugging back in the cps at the front of the engine. So at least theres evidence they were in there. Hopefully getting back into it this afternoon checking input and out signals at the ecu.
regards,
jeff