HI .....another cruise control rebuild / repair job.

Is this meant to look like this?
I tested the solenoid both work but the Ohms reading on one was 50 ohms where the manual says max 20-30 from memory.
Oh and after removing the cruise control I left the bracket floating around on top of the engine..... went for a spin and had to walk home, engine cut out, would start but die when trying to get off the start.
Yep.. bracket was shorting to the middle distributor lead. Easy find but would have been better if I noticed it before walking home.

 

Looks like it has had a hard life. I would suggest a complete strip down to check condition of valve seals, check that wiring and renew the bellows.

 

Baxtor,
I like that plan, dont like this option....

Speed Control Actuator

Product CodeAC5964EPart Type:Standard

£186.30 inc Vat

(+ £120.00 surcharge) Special Order Goods qty:
WTF - surcharge special order????? so thats 306 pounds... $574 NZ dollars, can't see that getting a proved by the Minister of Finance.

While it looks nice and shinny and will do the job perfectly, my children like their kidneys and were not prepared to help even at 50/50 split.
So is the rubber bellows available on its own? I read somewhere it was but no idea where.

Also how do you pull the solenoids apart? anything that going to means its in the bin once i touch it?
Will be cool to have everything plated to look like new.

Looking forward to this little project.
Thanks

 

Kids can keep their organs. New rubber bellows should cost around $20.00 the rest can be rebuilt. Start with new bellows. Test for solenoid and valve seal function can be carried out on the bench with a power and a vacuum source and some improvising, if any work is required it can all be rebuilt without selling body parts.
Assuming you are in NZ you could get bellows from Jagdaim in Melbourne Aust.

 

Baxtor, assume.
solenoid both work, one has high ohms reading, but hey they both work.
Here is a picture of the control in cabin.
Wires to light cut, insulation tape looks recent. Have not tested to see if there is power etc... will do this week.
Going to order new bellows... cheers.

 

How easy is it to remove the solenoids ?
I would like to re-plate housing?
The black caps are removable?

Wiring is brittle, what options are there for replacing the wiring?
Can the plug be sourced or reused?

New rubber bellows is on order from Aus.. $30 AUD plug postage to NZ.
Assume deal.

 

The solenoids are wedged in. The housing is made of Aluminium. It was coated years ago with an illegal substance (today). I just cleaned it up and painted that side.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1929350

 

The solenoids can be levered out a little at a time alternating at each end. There is a small plunger return spring arrangment in each cavity you need to take note of and be careful on reassembly so as not to damage or displace. There is a good chance the tiny seal pads are either missing or baked so hard as to not seal anymore so you may need to come up with alternatives.

 

I bought a couple of those plugs from Jaycar a few years ago. Although I don't like them for automotive use, I would use a quality Deutsch DTM 3-way, these are waterproof and made for automotive use.

 

I simply bought two harnesses from Jaguar for the CC and cut one plug off... Worked perfectly.

 

Don't forget the internal spring inside the bellows

 

Perfect, just what was needed. Great job, remember seeing that now.
Can't find the DAC1995 wiring for 13euro... more like $163NZD delivered for two. Still best option.
Might have to look at other options at that price.

Also missing the rubber cover, any idea where I could score one?

 

Thanks Warrjon.
This option looks good, just need to find the correct wire, where would I start?
High temp wire, 2.2mm - I'm sure there is a proper name?

 

https://www.sngbarratt.com/de/#!/Deu...d-36899f852e7b

I paid less but the price might have gone up since I bought two at once

 

GXL wire is what a lot of the OEM's use and you can buy it on eBay. 2.2mm is fine.

GXL is standard automotive wire
TXL is thin wall insulation.

 

as I said previously don't forget the internal spring or the vacuum will suck in the sides instead of the end

 

Cant seem to find 2.2mm or 11 / 12 gauge GXL wire on ebay or amazon that ship to NZ.
Found 14 gauge = 1.63mm seems to thin...

Thoughts?

Also DTM plug .
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1set-Deutsc...sQS:rk:20:pf:0
will this suit? is it the gauge?

 

That's 1.63mm diameter 14G which is 2.1mm cross section, this will be fine. 14G might be too big for that connector.

The fuse is 10A so I would go down to 16G wire this will fit that connector and will work fine.

 

Progress on this build.
Parts plated and painted, new bellow purchased and new plug wired on to the soliniod both ends with high temp wire.
I tested the solenoid both work but the Ohms reading on one was 50 ohms where the manual says max 20-30 from memory.


Time to test the wiring as per the BOOK......
Here I am hoping for some help please!
I will try an explain my writing...done in the bottom of the car.


All grounds tested back to neg - battery.
1) test black wire to ground - yes
2) yellow/purple wire - connects to inhibit switch should read low ohms in P - reads ground) but open / not ground in Drive) - might be meter but close to whats needed.
3) Black/Pink wire - to stalk - reads open and ground when pressed - so all good
4) black/slate wire connected to major switch - should open in on/off and ground on resume - reads - off / ground, on / open, resume / ground
5) yellow / white wire - connected to bellows should read 25/30ohms - reads ground and open when brake pedal pressed like it should.... again could be meter...they read 50ohm and 30ohms at the solenoids.
6) Yellow/black wire is connected to vacuum solenoid should read 50-60oms reads - ground
7) yellow /orange wire 12v - all good
8) green/ purple - connected brake light switch read zero volts and 12v when brake pedal pressed - yep all good.

so that is the test- result is ground when there should be ohms...... is it the meter? Power Probe 3 - connected to positive and neutral on the battery, is this meter sensitive enough to read low ohms or more suited to find shorts?
Lots of wire to read through from battery?