Decided to tackle the trans mount today... this is horrible
Tried to change the trans pan without lowering the mount. It just wouldn't budge. Had to use a c clamp to pull the exhaust over to even get to the trans pan bolts. So I went after the mount. Everything went we except now the bracket is blocked by the c clamp and a bunch of spacers and stuff fell out. I'm loosing it!
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https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c919aa742d.jpgAwesome! Finally all apart and I need a thin arse socket? Ahhhh
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Would help to create a signature with your MY. Either that, or you have to remember to tell everyone what car and engine you have in EVERY
POST YOU MAKE Until then, you'll get half assed guessed responses or thread takeovers. Create your signature. Do it now. Like, right now. You'll get good help as a result. |
Originally Posted by Vee
(Post 1662570)
Would help to create a signature with your MY. Either that, or you have to remember to tell everyone what car and engine you have in EVERY
POST YOU MAKE Until then, you'll get half assed guessed responses or thread takeovers. Create your signature. Do it now. Like, right now. You'll get good help as a result. Anyway long story short and more hours I've ever spent on a project... it's done. Horrible just horrible job! Pic below is the final shot at getting the mount back in place before I launched the car into a lake. One jack pushing the trans up and another pushing the mount up and a C-clamp holding the exhaust over just enough to get it in. It actually took away a little bit of my love of tinkering on cars...it'll pass by tomorrow. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...f86eedf572.jpg |
This is unfortunately too late to help you, but in case anyone searching the archives comes across this thread, there is a "safe and sane" way of doing this job:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...itting-145478/ Would be nice to add this link to the 'XJS How To' sticky thread. |
Originally Posted by Mac Allan
(Post 1662927)
Would be nice to add this link to the 'XJS How To' sticky thread.
Done. |
Originally Posted by Norri
(Post 1662934)
Done.
But could I please respectfully ask that the links in the Sticky have their titles clarified? It is not possible (on my PC at least) to know what many of them are about without opening them first, which rather spoils the point of their being there. These links are examples of my point: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...solved-115344/ cybercg https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...basics-178059/ Doug https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...98/#post413940 by Christian 96 XJR Greg |
Originally Posted by Mac Allan
(Post 1662927)
This is unfortunately too late to help you, but in case anyone searching the archives comes across this thread, there is a "safe and sane" way of doing this job:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...itting-145478/ Would be nice to add this link to the 'XJS How To' sticky thread. |
Originally Posted by 944xjs
(Post 1662698)
I've been using the mobile site the whole time. I didn't even know signatures existed. :icon_beerchug:
Anyway long story short and more hours I've ever spent on a project... it's done. Horrible just horrible job! Pic below is the final shot at getting the mount back in place before I launched the car into a lake. One jack pushing the trans up and another pushing the mount up and a C-clamp holding the exhaust over just enough to get it in. It actually took away a little bit of my love of tinkering on cars...it'll pass by tomorrow. I also have the issue of no signature on posts I do from my mobile device. |
Originally Posted by warrjon
(Post 1663197)
As Grant would advise have a good stiff drink.
I also have the issue of no signature on posts I do from my mobile device. |
TOO TIRED for a beer.
MAAAAAAAATE you need another Jag, and a V12 for sure. Remove that STUPID collision bracket nonsense, and the pan will simply fall off when the bolts are removed. Realigning the exhaust when a hoist is avaiable would be a good "to do list" addition. |
Originally Posted by Grant Francis
(Post 1663389)
TOO TIRED for a beer.
MAAAAAAAATE you need another Jag, and a V12 for sure. Remove that STUPID collision bracket nonsense, and the pan will simply fall off when the bolts are removed. Realigning the exhaust when a hoist is avaiable would be a good "to do list" addition. jag is more than enough! I haven't even gotten to touch my 944 this year. |
Just a lovely thing to see. I was able to snug that bolt down a bit more and hopefully that fixes the small drip. If not I'm going to put some sort of sealant around that area I'll be damned if I take it all apart again! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...cc0b86c036.jpg
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I'm fairly tolerant of minor oil leaks. Effort-vs-benefit and all that.
As for leaking transmission pans...... My personal experience is that chronic leakers are often the fault of the pan itself. The mating surface is often distorted around each bolt hole. Sometime these distortions can be hammered flat again. Or sometimes the entire pan is 'racked' or tweaked. Put it on a perfectly flat surface to check. I'm working on an old Mustang (1967 GT500, actually!) and was able to buy a "heavy duty" transmission pan. Much more rigid overall and the flange area where the bolts go thru is much thicker. This helps ensure uniform clamping at the mating surface. Zero leaks after two months. I would recommend seeking out something similar for the TH400. Cheers DD |
Originally Posted by Doug
(Post 1665230)
I'm fairly tolerant of minor oil leaks. Effort-vs-benefit and all that.
As for leaking transmission pans...... My personal experience is that chronic leakers are often the fault of the pan itself. The mating surface is often distorted around each bolt hole. Sometime these distortions can be hammered flat again. Or sometimes the entire pan is 'racked' or tweaked. Put it on a perfectly flat surface to check. I'm working on an old Mustang (1967 GT500, actually!) and was able to buy a "heavy duty" transmission pan. Much more rigid overall and the flange area where the bolts go thru is much thicker. This helps ensure uniform clamping at the mating surface. Zero leaks after two months. I would recommend seeking out something similar for the TH400. Cheers DD |
NO gasket at all stopped all mine leaking 100%.
Hi-Temp RTV, done and dusted. |
Originally Posted by Grant Francis
(Post 1665278)
NO gasket at all stopped all mine leaking 100%.
Hi-Temp RTV, done and dusted. Thinking about shooting some of this at it. https://www.permatex.com/products/ad...t-leak-repair/ |
Flat vs flat works. If either is warped or deformed, only huge luck will aid.
Early on, mentor taught me about deformed tin around the holes that the fasteners go in to. Unneeded gorilla arm torque the usual culprit. Fix: Use a socket as a backer and tap the high around the hole down to match the rest. If one chooses, gasket sealer, best applied to the tin only to keep the gasket in place during assembly. Snug on the bolts is adequate. Super tight defeats the gasket!! Way back when My T roadster had an issue with what I thought was the head gasket. NLA at the time!!!! Much teen adventure with a leaky car that might fire on 2 or 3 of it's 4!!! Off with it's head for the umpteenth time. Not hard to do !!!! Set it down on a concrete surface. Wowee, it rocks like a boat!!! Went to my stash and got another head. Tried on the same surface. Huge difference!!!! Only a slight "wiggle' if any!!! Used the copper/asbestos sandwich gasket. Bolted it on. Just yanked the bolts tight. A torque wrench an unknown at the time. But tightening sequence, definitely, courtesy of Dyke's Automobile Encyclopedia. Hurrah, no coolant seep. Cranked it up, old tech, teen arm power. It fired and chuckled happily as a good "T" should 1!! Carl |
2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Doug
(Post 1665230)
I'm working on an old Mustang (1967 GT500, actually!) and was able to buy a "heavy duty" transmission pan. Much more rigid overall and the flange area where the bolts go thru is much thicker. This helps ensure uniform clamping at the mating surface. Zero leaks after two months. I would recommend seeking out something similar for the TH400.
Greg |
Originally Posted by JagCad
(Post 1665482)
Flat vs flat works. If either is warped or deformed, only huge luck will aid.
Early on, mentor taught me about deformed tin around the holes that the fasteners go in to. Unneeded gorilla arm torque the usual culprit. Fix: Use a socket as a backer and tap the high around the hole down to match the rest. If one chooses, gasket sealer, best applied to the tin only to keep the gasket in place during assembly. Snug on the bolts is adequate. Super tight defeats the gasket!! Way back when My T roadster had an issue with what I thought was the head gasket. NLA at the time!!!! Much teen adventure with a leaky car that might fire on 2 or 3 of it's 4!!! Off with it's head for the umpteenth time. Not hard to do !!!! Set it down on a concrete surface. Wowee, it rocks like a boat!!! Went to my stash and got another head. Tried on the same surface. Huge difference!!!! Only a slight "wiggle' if any!!! Used the copper/asbestos sandwich gasket. Bolted it on. Just yanked the bolts tight. A torque wrench an unknown at the time. But tightening sequence, definitely, courtesy of Dyke's Automobile Encyclopedia. Hurrah, no coolant seep. Cranked it up, old tech, teen arm power. It fired and chuckled happily as a good "T" should 1!! Carl |
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