How to properly change your brake pads and rotors (and repack your bearings) (Photos)
#1
How to properly change your brake pads and rotors (and repack your bearings) (Photos)
Here is a step by steo guide for anyone who wants to change their own brake pads and rotors. Is a complicated task (before I wrote this guide ) But is very doable if you are patient and follow the steps. Any questions please comment.
Link: jaghelp.com: How to change the brakes pads and rotors on your Jaguar XJS
Link: jaghelp.com: How to change the brakes pads and rotors on your Jaguar XJS
The following 3 users liked this post by daxter1987:
#2
#3
There is one important Step you appear to have missed (unless I have missed it myself?)
It is Absolutely Essential that when changing the Brake Pads, you have the Bleed Nipples open on the Calipers.
As if any Brake Fluid is forced back the wrong way up the System, it can wreck the ABS Master Cylinder/Actuator.
Replacement Cost: £1,000! if you can find one, or else a very complicated time consuming and expensive repair!
It is Absolutely Essential that when changing the Brake Pads, you have the Bleed Nipples open on the Calipers.
As if any Brake Fluid is forced back the wrong way up the System, it can wreck the ABS Master Cylinder/Actuator.
Replacement Cost: £1,000! if you can find one, or else a very complicated time consuming and expensive repair!
The following users liked this post:
daxter1987 (02-27-2015)
#4
Very good explanation and great photos, thanks for posting them.
I would like to add just one point: If a new brake disc is being fitted, you MUST check the the disc for "runout" with a dial gauge, before refitting the caliper. Place the dial gauge against the outermost side of the disc and turn the disc while watching the gauge. Any more that 1 thou runout (ie the disc not running true but wobbling in and out) remove the disc and reclean the hub/disc interface and retry until runout to spec. Carefully scraping the hub face where the disc fits to it with a sharp chisel blade is often required if the hub is really dirty or has crud built up on it.
If not done, and runout is present, the brakes will pulse and the car judder and the discs warp after a very short period of use.
Greg
I would like to add just one point: If a new brake disc is being fitted, you MUST check the the disc for "runout" with a dial gauge, before refitting the caliper. Place the dial gauge against the outermost side of the disc and turn the disc while watching the gauge. Any more that 1 thou runout (ie the disc not running true but wobbling in and out) remove the disc and reclean the hub/disc interface and retry until runout to spec. Carefully scraping the hub face where the disc fits to it with a sharp chisel blade is often required if the hub is really dirty or has crud built up on it.
If not done, and runout is present, the brakes will pulse and the car judder and the discs warp after a very short period of use.
Greg
The following 3 users liked this post by Greg in France:
#5
I stated to clean the surface where the disc mounts no matter what, so that's why I don't think you should measure disc runout...
You could crack the bleeder but I don't think I've ever pushed a piston back and broke anything...
But I respect and apretiate the input by all means. I'll add it as notes in the article!
Thanks guys!
You could crack the bleeder but I don't think I've ever pushed a piston back and broke anything...
But I respect and apretiate the input by all means. I'll add it as notes in the article!
Thanks guys!
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