1993 XJS: We did everything to remove the lower caliper bolt (21/2") from the caliper. Heat, leverage and more leverage until the bolt broke at the head. I feel that I can split the caliper by removing four bolts and then remove the bolts from the steering arm #13 and remove the back half of the caliper. Is this in your opinion workable or another idea?

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...b-axle-carrier

 

Orangeblossom advised me to use an electric impact wrench on that bolt. And it works brilliantly. Too late for you, I realise, but it may help others. I had your problem on an earlier effort, and what I did was to cut off the steering arm at the hole the bolt goes through and replace it with a second hand one from a breaker.
Your problem is that the bolt goes through the arm, the caliper and into the upright. I do not think getting the caliper apart will solve the problem as the arm and what remains of the caliper will still be bolted to the upright. The bolt is rusted into the steering arm, and it is impossible to work it loose because the arm can only be moved about 5 degrees before it fouls something, even when it is undone everywhere else.
So I think a replacement steering arm is your quickest and easiest bet.

 

PUNT. Remove the spindle by the ball joints and replace it and steering arm. Spindle and steering arm can be found on ebay fro under 100$ and cut off and reuse what you can. Might be able to find the whole lot at a salvage yard near you.

 

Greg: Did use an electric impact wrench several times. It failed to work. Used a 19mm socket and it broke. Used another 19mm with a long handled wrench that is when the lower caliper bolt broke just below the head. My objective was to replace the caliper.

I am slightly confused with your solution. Are you saying that if I remove the steering arm #13 by cutting it in half where the lower defective caliper bolt goes through and remove the upper short caliper bolt that I will be able to slide the caliper out? But how do I replace the new steering arm if I couldn't unbolt it in the first place?
Let me further explain I am working with a young lad that is actually doing the work. I can't get my old 89 year old body under the car to see the configuration! I was working off the Classic drawing that I referenced above.

 

I have a cordless impact made by Milwaukee and it does 1100 ft-lbs! Superior to anything else I have used, and works great to remove bolts without breaking them. They make a number of different versions, so check before buying.

Regarding the socket, were you using an impact socket or a regular? Impact sockets are heavier walled and are usually black.

It may be easier to replace the entire upright at this point, although that requires compressing the spring. It's not a difficult job, just tedious. Get 4 pieces of 3/8" fine thread rod, and cut 4 pieces a foot long. Replace the corner bolts on the lower spring pan one at a time with the threaded rod and washers and nuts. Then undo the nuts gradually and lower the spring pan down, thus taking the load off the spring.

I made a special socket to do this, I took a deep socket, cut it in half and welded in a piece of pipe to make and extra deep (12") socket. Then I could use a ratchet instead of a wrench to undo the nuts and it went quicker.

Motorcars in Houston might be a good source for a used upright, they specialize in Jaguar and Land Rover. New, Used, OEM Jaguar Parts and Land Rover Parts

 

Is the upper calliper bolt out? If so, and the pads are removed and the piston pushed back, you should have some side to side play in the calliper relative to the disk. You might be able to get in with a thin cut off wheel on an angle grinder and cut off the remains of the bolt. That will get the calliper off and then you can deal with the remains of the broken bolt.

I'm thinking of a wheel like this: https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...el/A-p8423071e

These thin ones are only 0.045" thick and work very well in tight places.

A Sawsall might work too. Use the Milwaukee brand blades, they are the best I have used.

 

Correct, cut 13 where the broken bolt goes through it (just at the hole next to washer 21 in the diagram). This will release the rusted bolt where it goes through the steering arm. Undo the steering arm at each end (ie where the steering connects at 13 and at the other end and remove it. Now you will see the headless bolt sticking through the caliper (NOT threaded remember) and screwed into the upright. It WILL undo from the upright. I guarantee you that it is the steering arm hole that is jamming it, not the threads into the upright. You will find that when you have undone each end of the arm, before you cut it off, you will be able to move it in each direction a few degrees. Use a large pair of grips, or a large self locking wrench, or weld a nut over the broken end, etc etc. On reassembly, smear the bolt with copper grease or even better this stuff, which is absolute magic and makes copper grease look like glue! Great on plug threads too.

Remember that the bolt is METRIC FINE THREAD, not UNF, when you source a new one.

And +100% fro training the next generation!
Greg

 

Hi Afterburner

I had exactly the very same problem as you and even had a Spanner on the end of a Four Foot Scaffolding Pole!

Nothing but Nothing would Shift it, until I bought a Mains Powered Electric Impact Wrench.

The Cordless ones don't always cut the Mustard but doing it with this Mains Powered one is a Breeze!

I even made a Video of me using it live, plus a write up on all the Struggles I had with doing this Job.

Which you can see on these 2 pages of my 'Cherry Blossom' Restoration Thread

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-122634/page9/

But before I did the Bolt on 'Cherry Blossom' I had an even worse problem on my other Car 'The Ice Princess'

Where a well meaning 'Friend' (No longer on my Christmas Card List by the way!) went and snapped the Caliper Bolt right off.

I too tried splitting the Caliper but that didn't work and even if you managed it, you would have to put it back together and rebuild it.

Which you may or may not have the Skills to do.

I even tried drilling the Bolt out and using one of those 'Gizmos' for undoing Broken Bolts but that did not work either.

Although it took all Week to find that out.

Because I was (unusually) Too 'Pig headed' to listen to 'Gregs' advice and cut through the Arm.

And as 'Greg' says, its not the Thread that's jammed in the hole but the Friction of the Head of the Bolt.

Once you cut the Arm through it's a Breeze!

I will see if I can find you the Photo.

Moral of the Story: Always listen to advice from 'Greg' and 'The Wizard' what they don't know, you don't need to know!

Update

Hi Afterburner

Here are a few more Pics that may help you decide which way to go.



Trying to drill out the Broken Caliper Bolt on 'The Ice Princess' 'This is the Job from Hell it's just a Nightmare!'



The Steering Arm was Seized on the Shaft of the Bolt and would not come off, no matter how hard I bashed it with a FBH!



Saving myself a lot of pain and suffering by cutting the Steering Arm through with a Small Angle Grinder, if only I'd followed 'Greg's' advice and done this in the first place.



Once the Steering Arm was cut off, I got hold of the Stub of the Caliper Bolt with a pair of Stilson Wrenches and it came out dead easy!

 

I bow to Greg's expertise and to your experience, but I am going to try one last non lethal method before I cut the steering arm. Since the head of the bolt is off I am going to severely raise the temperature of the steering arm around the headless bolt and slip two manned pry bars under the steering arm and attempt to remove the steering arm from the bolt. If that doesn't work, I will cut the bolt extract the steering arm and remove the
remainder of the bolt on the work bench.
If this fails to work, I will use Greg's nuclear option!

 

Screw all that work! Used stub axle ASAP.

 

OB just rereading my response to you and it sounded like I was not appreciative. I just want to confirm my appreciation to you and Greg also. The pictures were perfect and I do appreciate them. I will send my son under the car this Sunday to try my method and the fall back position to use Greg's nuclear option!
OB I would like to know if you used a Hacksaw or an Cutoff saw to cut the steering arm.
For your information that screw extractor is also called an EASY OUT! What a misnomer.

 

Hi afterburner

Your response was fine by me, only here to help and make suggestions, that may also help others as well as yourself.

As writing it down also helps me to remember what I did or shouldn't have done.

I was trying to get that Bolt out (on and off) for about 3 Weeks! and even made a puller which didn't work either.

'Easy Out' Yeah! that's the name I was trying to remember and though I bought a Set of those they didn't do the job on this occasion.

And in case I forget to mention it, I also broke 2 Spanners and replaced them with Chinese ones that I got on ebay.

Nothing I did would Break those! not even hitting them with a FBH.

As for cutting the Arm off, you 'might' be able to do it with a 'Cut off saw' but I used a 4in Angle Grinder.

With a cutting blade that had been worn down to about 3ins. (piece of cake 'ish)

Then what's left of the Stub will come out dead easy.

 

The steering arm is a forging and an absolutely safety critical item. I do not know enough about metallurgy to be sure; but if there is a risk of the forging being weakened by this localised heating idea, then it is mot a good plan. Please do find out if you are risking weakening the component before you do the heating.

 

Getting it off is the objective. I have soaked it in Blaster for two days. Will try to remove it first with pry bars the next option is the heat and pry bars and the final option is the nuclear option.
PS thanks for the advice.. your right!

 

This weekend was a bummer! Soaked the steering arm with Blaster for three days and then used a pry bar with and without heat. Did not budge! Plan now is to use Greg's nuclear option and cut the steering arm. Since this is a one time deal, I plan to buy the tool at Harbor Freight. I have the choice of two tools: A 4 1/2" Cut Off tool or a 4 1/2" Angle Grinder. I am not familiar with either tool and would appreciate a recommendation

 

The angle grinder and the cutoff tool seem pretty much the same. Choose the one with the narrowest "snout" so you can poke it at the arm easiest and without fouling other bits of the suspension. I used an angle grinder with the side handle unscrewed. You will have to use the cutting disc a bit on some scrap steel to reduce it's radius. There is just room to get a half worn disc into the area required. Angle grinders are quite violent tools, so practice a bit first!

 

Afterburner:


1. Avoid Ezy Outs at any cost. They are hard and therefore brittle. Busting one in a hole not hard to do. Then extracting the stub is way beyond the original issue!!!!


2. Cutting is the way the Pros do it. Cut to the chafe, so to speak. Making a living dictates that.


3. I'm not a metallurgist either. But, I have heated my share. My guide was that heat short of puddle for welding was OK. And for a margin, short of "cherry red". For corrosion issues, not that much needed to bust the rust.


4. On week ends, I see program involving metal forging. Usually cutting instruments from odd sources of steel. Cherry red to beat it in to shape.
Then quench in oil or water to harden, aka temper. .


5. In the case "at bar',. I'd consider a recip saw and a good metal blade.
The fastener is probably mild steel. No need for the better grades.


Carl

 

Carl
Totally agree about eezi outs, but they are not the required tool for this job, even if they worked. The bolt is not the issue, it is the forged steering arm that has to be cut to relive the eye cast into it through which the bolt goes. The bolt is seized into the unthreaded eye. Only a angle grinder will cut it ! (geddit!!??)

 

Things are getting brighter! Found two used right side steering arms right here in Houston One at $45.00 and one at $50.00 and Harbor Freight has a 4.5" horizontal grinder for $15.00.
Unless you took the wheel apart there is no way to drill for and easy out. I would suspect, after my experience trying to remove the steering arm, even if the easy out caught and held it would not turn to remove the bolt

 

Today was a banner day! The frozen bolt has defrosted and is out! we, Son and me, decided to insert a chisel between the steering arm and the caliper, in hopes that a hammer blow would release the bolt. It didn't! As a last resort, Greg's nuclear action was brought from the arsenal and descended into the grinding position.The angle grinder took about three disks and 15 minutes to cut through the steering arm and free the bolt. Took us about another hour to put on a new caliper and bleed the brakes.
Just want to thank all of you for your input and ideas and info. Your input really helped and was appreciated!