the back of the top is held to the body by a wire cable with a threaded end with a nut on it to pull it tight and hold the back of the top to the car, if i remember right its kinda back in by the rear hinges, pop the latches on the top and partially open it a few inches to take the tension off the top and then loosen the nuts on the cable and then you can pull the back of the top out of its channel.

i cant recall specifically on the door handles how they are attached. i think they were held on from the back side your also have to disconnect the linkages to the lock actuators and door latch. i think the mirrors were just the two visible screws on the outside and a electrical plug inside the door.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-132579/page2/

here is the thread when i repainted my car, not super detailed but may be helpful.

 

 

Thanks, keep me informed.

 

here is the video i mentioned earlier that i was going to be doing on repainting my semi truck, it was also repainted due to a failing clear coat, its not super detailed as i didn't want the video to end up being an hour long or more but it should help give some pointers and a overview on doing this yourself.


there is a series on youtube called the paintucation series (sp?) that was put on by eastwood (not sure if its on there channel or just sponsored by them) hosted by kevin tetz that you can probably find threw search that has tons and tons of very detailed information on all the different aspects of a a diy paint job.

 

Hi Ezrider

Very enjoyable and informative Video one of the best I have seen!

Straight to the point and leaving out all the boring stuff, so no need to fast forward on this one but could you expand on the Paint that you were using and how it was mixed, as that part seemed to come out with the Sound a bit muffled

Great Paint Job by the way and just shows what can be done by a diy guy

 

Like I said just gotta do it. Don't let it scare you. The best way to learn is by doing. Nice job man! Looks good, and I love the Kelly Green, very nice color. I don't think I'll paint my Jacobra that color, but it would sure get a lot of attention. Wow, that's a lot of truck to sand. LOL! Nice Job.
I took Automotive Bodywork years ago (about 40) in "Career Center", what most would call a "Tech School" nowadays. I loved taking the dents out, working a fender, shaping body filler, but when it came to finish sanding??? That's Rastus Work!!! I hate it with a passion! My wife say's I'm to damn picky! To which I replied 90% of a good paint job, is the prep work. It just sucks that I hate it so much!

Jack

 

for this one i used dupont imron its not a paint you would likely use on a car its more of a industrial paint. very tough stuff cant really be beat for durability. but its not the best for a high end Finnish i kinda purposely omitted paint mixing ratio's ect as its different for just about every different kind of paint. the paint i used was 3 parts paint to 1 part activator and then 2oz of catalysts per gallon of sprayable paint (after the paint is mixed with the activator). the mix info will be in the technical data sheets you can ask for them when you buy the paint if they don't automatically give them to you. the imron sprays with a bit different spraying technique than most your automotive paints as well. it was actually my first time using that type of paint so it was a bit of a learning experience for me as well but it came out good.

with more of a normal automotive paint you don't get coverage one your first coat like i did in the video with the imron, with the imron its very thick and sticky and its only 2 coats using a cross coat basicly one heavy wet coat that gets complete coverage on the first coat and then a second lighter coat applyed in the opposite direction before the first coat is even tacked up yet. so even though its 2 coats its really more like 1. most your automotive paints you spray one light-med coat then another 2-3 med-wet coats with a 15-20 min flash time between coats until you get coverage, (normally takes near that long to work your way around a car so by the time you clean your gun and mix your next batch you can start spraying again) at that point it will still look dull and kinda chaulky let it flash off for a couple hours and then spray 2-3 med-wet coats of clear and that's when the paint jumps to life.

when i painted my jag i used dupont cromabase.

 

thanks! the color is jade green-metallic. its the factory color for the truck. its really a pretty nice color i didn't like it back when i first got the truck but i like it now. its got a lot of flake in it. the prep is really the make/brake on a paint job spraying is easy, it took me a couple paint jobs to learn that paint hides nothing, infact its quite the opposite. i don't like body work, ill do it on my own stuff but yeah thats about it...lol you have to be very picky when it comes to those final stages before paint. the truck i wasn't too concerned about it being 1000% perfect cause well its a truck but a car i would shoot a high biuld primer after its all said and done and then spray with with a guide coat of black spray paint and sand all the black spray paint off in the wet sanding process. that is the best way in my oppion to make sure you don't miss any pinholes or sanding scratches.


here is a close up picture of the color

 

Yep I like the large Flake! Kinda reminds me of a Bass Boat. LOL!

 

Hi Ezrider

Thank you for that info and once again Great Paint Job!

So good that at first I didn't realize that those 2 White Lines were the reflection of the overhead Fluorescent Lights!

 

I once drove four hours to look at a 1967 Mustang that reminded me of a bass boat. All the pictures that had been posted online looked great. It was supposed to be the original Dark Moss Green color, but when I arrived I could tell right away as I pulled up that something wasn't right. As I got closer I could see the large flakes. I asked the seller and he admitted that yes, he had taken a slight liberty with the original paint color. But you couldn't tell in the pictures posted online, even the close-ups weren't obvious. But sitting outside in the sunlight, I couldn't help but think "bass boat". Nice car otherwise, but I politely declined to even look at it any further as I wasn't going to pay anywhere near his asking price if I had to have it repainted. Never trust your computer screen when buying a car.

 

The comment about Imron paint is interesting. It is tough because it is an aircraft paint.

My car is a 1993 jet black coupe. The hood is losing clear coat, but still polishes well. I was surprised that nobody suggested a wrap. I was considering just wrapping the hood if I could get a good color match. Just the hood, top, and trunk appears to be an easy wrap. Am I wrong?

 

​​​​​​
This product seems to fit and should work. I've test fit it, and it works. I'll update one last time to make sure this is a good alternative to the pricey KRS116140

 

As a followup, works perfectly for a fraction of the cost. You'll need 11 of them. I think I bought 50 for about $6.

 

I realized I needed to give this thread an update.

I tried to see if I could buff and polish the beast into presentable condition, and was successful to a point that I could have declared it was good enough. I did the trunk/boot lid as a test, and it looked fabulous from 10 feet. The problem was that the areas where the clear coat had failed the most, the elements had done so much permanent damage to the color layer and on close examination I’d have to go the primer layer to level it. Walking around the polished area, the most severe damage was clearly visible as you moved.

My choice was do a lot of work that wouldn’t last beyond the wedding, or look into a re-spray again. I talked to several guys I found on craigslist, but I didn’t click with any of them or felt the savings wouldn’t end up being a good investment in the end.

I then remembered that I’d been in shop that specializes in old British cars, and he had a E-Type and a TR6 he was restoring at the time, so I called him to see if he had wholesale connection to a paint and body shop. He was nice enough to make a referral, and his paint guy agreed to do a wholesale job if I did all mechanical aspects of a respray (bumper, trim, etc. removal).

I decided to go ahead and pull the trigger and stripped the car and dropped it off at the shop. Unfortunately, I got the car back a few weeks later than planned because the poor guy had a heart issue and got behind at the shop. Also getting the car back that late, along with unseasonable cool temps and rain meant that it would be wise to wait for color sand/paint correction until after the wedding.

I probably got overly ambitious given my time line, because I decided that since I had done the work to remove the bumpers I should also do the modification of the energy absorbers to turn them into Euro style ones while I was at it, and that pushed me uncomfortably close to my deadline. However, I had it fully detailed and ready the Sunday night before. To the untrained eye, it looked perfect, but there are a few dust nibs and the expected orange peel of modern clear coats that if I have the nerve to color sand will get it closer to show quality.

The venue was about 100 miles away, and wouldn’t you know it… I was on the highway enjoying a lovely drive down to the venue when a stone smashed against the windshield with a bang. I saw it the split second before it hit, and was certain it was going to crack the screen. Given how loud the noise it made, I don’t know how it didn’t do more damage. Relieved, I thought I was lucky that it hit the screen and not the hood/bonnet. Well not so lucky, and there is a stone chip smack in the middle of the hood (that nobody but I would notice or care about). Fortunately the guy who painted said he’d be happy to fix it no charge.

I guess the car looked quite nice because the groom’s brother said, “You’re either incredibly generous or insane to let him drive this.” The wedding was really wonderful and I was a very proud dad. Thanks to everyone who contributed to the thread, and if anyone has some tips on paint correction I'd love to hear them.

 

I know exactly how you feel. I had the XF's hood repainted for the second time in December and this time I planned to have some clear paint protection film applied. However, I was advised to wait 90 days for the paint to fully cure before installing that. Of course its my daily driver so I can't just put the car away for 90 days and wait. 90 days just passed last week but I already got two chips. I will need to get those touched up before I can have the PPF applied and of course now it won't be perfect anymore.

 

 

I haven't had a chance to take a nice shot of the whole car, but I just posted a couple of shots of the front and back to show the bumper modification in another thread which you can see here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...us-eur-215428/

 

Brewtech
Unbelievable $10,000 for a paint job. Rembrandt wouldn't charge that much! Wrap sounds reasonable at $3500, but I have not looked into it here in Houston. I was thinking of getting a wrap on my hood only, it has clear coat problems but not severe. I was also thinking of working the clearcoat damage with Mother's Clay Bar and a good wax to hide the damaged area. I would like to use clearcoat paint and 2000 wet and dry and then polish, but I don't know if the clearcoat will blend. The paint is black and original. Fortunately the car was garaged most of its life and the paint is about 98 percent.perfect