1993 XJS VIN 186721

Since my experience with removing and replacing my front calipers with pads, I have decided to let a shop replace the rear calipers. What I would like to know, from your experience, the estimated time it takes to remove and replace rear inboard calipers and pads on the 1993 model.

 

As long as you are sure the car that has late a build date does have inboard calipers, in my experience changing them can only be done with the axle removed from the car. I would honestly think at least 10 hours start to finish.
Greg

 

Just a guess. A few years ago, it was time to swap out the ones in my XJwuzza 6. I figured that it was beyond my abilities at the time. I found a place that did the job for $600. Delivered the car to them one AM, got it back the third day in the afternoon. A delay, as two fasteners had to be cut and new ones secured. I surmise an 8 hour task on a lift by a skilled tech sans Jaguar experience.


Carl

 

Hi Guy's. Appreciate your replies, but think we may not be communicating. First of all the car is a 1993, VIN 186721, which was apparently a change year. The early car had inboard brakes and the later year had outboard brakes. My brakes are inboard. I only want to change out the calipers and pads, and not the rotors. According to info sent from OB, Dick Maury from Coventry West, Lithiona Ga, USA says only one hour per caliper. Re: response under OB "Need Consultation on Brake Replacement." Maury said he's been doing it or 30 years so I assumed he is referring to inboard brakes because he references a 1985 auto. He says, "unscrew the hand brake cable, Remove the hydrolic line, unscrew a couple of caliper bolts and pop the caliper out!" Obviously, I like his numbers because I have received quotes of $450, $600, and $800. The $450 quote indicate about 4.5 hours labor with the caviot "that is what the book says." Other quotes were 6 to 10 hours.
It seem that the only place that I can receive credible info is on this forum, and that is why I posed this question. How long does it take to pull and replace an inboard caliper?

 

I have heard of people who say it can be done with the axle in the car. All I can say is that in my own car's case, I found that this was impossible! If you find someone who can do it, great. The problem is access, as always on an XJS.

 

The inboard caliper mounting bolts are horrible to access. They are also safety wired unless they have been previously changed. I have my doubts that anyone can do the job in 2 hours. I won't say impossible but he must know all the short cuts and maybe have rigged some special tools to get at those mounting bolts. Most have a hard time changing outboard brakes in an hour each using air tools.

 

I could see doing the lower caliper bolts in the car, but the uppers are very difficult to get to. I would have dropped the suspension as well. Pads, no problem, those are fast, but not calipers.

Are you 100% sure the calipers need to be replaced?

 

Well, if you can find a guy with Dick Maury's skills and facilities in the Houston area, yes,


Is that probable, no !


So, what matters? How many $'s and the confidence in the quality of the work.


Carl

 

Here's what Maury wrote in reference to the bolts
1."using a 5/8 open end from the bottom, loosen the lower bolt
2. Using a box end , loosen the top. From here a set of short wrenches comes in handy to loosen the bolts. If your lucky the top one is loose enough to turn with your fingers.
3 once unscrewed, they will not come out of the caliper but the whole caliber is lifted out."
I called him today and he confirmed his procedure and chuckled at the times quoted.

Jagbo: Not sure need replacement, but the condition is difficult to assess. I know they need pads and it looked like there is corrosion around the outer seal. I have compromised this job, not replacing rotors now the consideration of not replacing calipers, and a quote of $115.00 to replace pads on one caliper. And may I add I provide the parts on all quotes above. I feel uncomfortable with the quotes I received. I can afford each one, I just want to make sure I'm trading dollars for work accomplished. I have owned other Jags and I know the feeling when you know you are being over charge just because you own a Jaguar.

 

The pads are no more difficult to change than any other car, it just needs to be on a hoist to make it easier. I've done it on axle stands though.

I must admit I have not heard of doing it Dick's way before, but like you I do respect him. I can have a rear end out in 45min to an hour, so for me it's easier to have the space to work. I'm not on the clock though, if it takes a week it doesn't matter!

 

Jagbo/64: I agree with you on both the pads and dropping the cage and I would rather do it myself, but at my age getting under the car is difficult, getting up is impossible! My son helped me for three weekends to get the bolt out of the right caliper and I just can't impose on him any more. Although if we only do the pads, I might call on him.
What I would like to do is find a reliable and honest mechanic and turn the project over to him or her. Will keep you all posted.

 

I've struggled with many jobs that a seasoned pro, with years of repetitive experience, can breeze through while whistling a tune.

Cheers
DD

 

I do not remove the suspension for rotors or calipers unless other repairs are needed but that is my preference. I elevate the car on a lift and disconnect the handbrake/pad holder from the hydraulic caliper and just rotate them up/around the rotor.

Steel hydraulic lines disconnected.

The caliper bolts can be manipulated with an assortment of wrenches. Sometimes the lower control arm needs to swing down out of the way for easier access. (Mandatory for ROTORS)

The steel locking wire is 'tricky' to reinstall but there are several aircraft 'safety-wire' tools for nearly inaccessible applications like the Deep Reach Safety Wire Twister.



Liquid Locking Compound is always an alternative.

If you lack focus and persistence then I suggest dropping the rear subframe for less stress and aggravation.

"To Each His Own!!!!"

bob

 

Motorcarman; Are you confirming this procedure for removing inboard caliper?

After freeing the hand brake and the hydraulic lines
1."using a 5/8 open end from the bottom, loosen the lower bolt
2. Using a box end , loosen the top. From here a set of short wrenches comes in handy to loosen the bolts. If your lucky the top one is loose enough to turn with your fingers.
3 once unscrewed, they will not come out of the caliper but the whole caliber is lifted out."

 

Three comments:


1. The $600, I paid was labor only. I provided the calipers and pads.


2. $115 to swap out the pads in one caliper sounds like a minimum at 1 hour labor.


3. I have a neat set of ratcheting box wrenches. A bit thicker and probably "weaker" than an old tech box. But, would they work in that tight space. Probably not, but, just mebbe.


Carl

 

No, the price was $115 per wheel with my pads. My son replaced the front pads in about 30 minutes after the installing of the calipers and about another ten minutes to bleed the front brakes. That shop's quote for the rear calipers was $600. I don't recall if that included the pads.

 

As I recall, removing them requires using a long extension, which I had to prop against a big combo wrench which I held up against the exhaust pipes.

It's been about 6 years now and I own more tools now, so it's hard to say if there's some other way to do it. I don't have a good idea on the time because I did it in the snow and was pretty annoyed the whole time.

As I recall getting the parking brake assembly back in was the biggest pain, and the calipers slid out a little easier than replacing them due to some taper or shape.

It's a pain in the butt, but it's certainly doable with only a handful of tools. No idea on the hours but if you have the parts for the calipers it's a weekend project. Give yourself a day out and day back in maybe, with plenty of breaks to swear, drink, and let blood back in your arms.

 

That is the basic procedure. The lower control arms can be disconnected at the wheel hub and allowed to 'dangle' for easier access to the lower caliper mount bolts.

bob

 

I removed and replaced calipers on my 78 with the rear axle in the car. Removed park brake mechanism from the hydraulic caliper, removed 2 bolts, and the brae line and out came the calipers. A tight fit but not the worst job I have ever done. I used to be a professional mechanic so I have more experience and tools than most, bbut not really that bad a job.

 

Thanks Doug
Today is the big day. Bring the car to shop to have calipers changed. Going 24 hours in advance for penetrating oil treatment. The labor is a little high at $200 per rear caliper, but not outrageous and is a shop I trust. They agreed with your removal procedure and it is comforting to know it works.
Will post final outcome in a couple of days
Thanks to all