Sng barratt floor pans pics?
#1
Sng barratt floor pans pics?
Has anyone out there install the sng barratt floor pans (or other badly panels)? If so could share some images?
SNG Barratt - Product Details
Thanks
SNG Barratt - Product Details
Thanks
#2
#3
Has anyone out there install the sng barratt floor pans (or other badly panels)? If so could share some images?
SNG Barratt - Product Details
Thanks
SNG Barratt - Product Details
Thanks
#4
#5
Ok. Here are a few quick pix. You can see a few dings, but, that's due to how I've stored it, and it's nothing my hammer and dolly can't straighten out.
Attachment 87873
Attachment 87875
Attachment 87876
Attachment 87873
Attachment 87875
Attachment 87876
Would you say that sheet is 16 or 18 gage?
Are you going to weld it yourself? What type of welder will you use?
If you will install the pan yourself..... May be do a how-to?
Thanks again....
#7
Thanks, jagzilla.... Question.... That pan is for an xjs, correct?... Don't the pans include half of the transmission tunnel?
Would you say that sheet is 16 or 18 gage?
Are you going to weld it yourself? What type of welder will you use?
If you will install the pan yourself..... May be do a how-to?
Thanks again....
Would you say that sheet is 16 or 18 gage?
Are you going to weld it yourself? What type of welder will you use?
If you will install the pan yourself..... May be do a how-to?
Thanks again....
Sorry. I recently, and incorrectly, posted on another thread that it includes nearly half the tranny tunnel. It had been a couple years since I pulled the floor pan out of the box & looked at it. I guess I remembered it differently. It does have a 1-3/4" vertical section which goes up the side of the tunnel.
I don't have a metal thickness gauge (can't seem to find one locally), and the battery is dead on my digital calipers, but, according to the illustration on the inside cover of my welder, it looks to be 16 gauge.
I've never welded in floor pans, but, I will likely do it myself, rather than paying hundreds of dollars for someone else to do it. I used my Lincoln Electric Pro MIG 180 to successfully repair the rear jacking points, forward trailing arm mounts, and sections of the the rear subframe rails, when local body shops wouldn't touch the job, or even give me quotes for it. I used 1/4" plate steel for the base of the jacking points/trailing arm mounts, and I used 2" angle iron to replace portions of the subframe rail sections. Since my choice of repair materials is about a bazillion times thicker than stock, I doubt I will ever have a rust problem in that area again. I don't imagine welding floor pans could be too much more difficult, if at all.
Last edited by JagZilla; 06-15-2014 at 04:32 PM.
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#8
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replaced both sides on my 78 XJS, it was quite labor intensive, especially the front section
where floor turns upward (that is not supplied) part where pan meets firewall foot well.
rear was easy, just brake bend or thin angle iron, to much iron makes the car heavier, for me, every ounce counts.
my 78 roadster weighs in at 3360lbs!
where floor turns upward (that is not supplied) part where pan meets firewall foot well.
rear was easy, just brake bend or thin angle iron, to much iron makes the car heavier, for me, every ounce counts.
my 78 roadster weighs in at 3360lbs!
#9
replaced both sides on my 78 XJS, it was quite labor intensive, especially the front section
where floor turns upward (that is not supplied) part where pan meets firewall foot well.
rear was easy, just brake bend or thin angle iron, to much iron makes the car heavier, for me, every ounce counts.
my 78 roadster weighs in at 3360lbs!
where floor turns upward (that is not supplied) part where pan meets firewall foot well.
rear was easy, just brake bend or thin angle iron, to much iron makes the car heavier, for me, every ounce counts.
my 78 roadster weighs in at 3360lbs!
Did you take any pics by any chance?
Thanks
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