When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Warren do you know what compression ratio these turbo engines are running and are they using race fuel? Do you have more photos of the exhaust manifolds, etc?
Here is a screen shot of a supercharger mounted in the Vee from another forum. The messurements show the top of the supercharger 60mm taller than the original engine but to me the intercooler would need to be much bigger or tucked up behind the supercharger body. Not sure about access to the plugs and a facelift bonnet or more would be needed.
The engine was still running after the weekend the think rings seized, as the engine had been sat for a long time. I think if he'd pulled the engine and replaced the rings it would have lasted longer. I meant to say a few races not meetings. Have you seen Bruce drive, he is pretty hard on the car, he broke a Jerico dog box with the 6.7L, actually blew a hole in the side of the case.
I was going buy his long stoke crank but the engine was a rope seal and mine is a 1 piece lip seal.
467 rwhp is about 560 at the flywheel, Norm has got 610hp from a 6.0L NA, although I do know that the torque the turbo engine made was phenomenal. I saw him come out of pit lane at Eastern Creek and light up a set of warm 300mm slicks like a V8 Supercar.
If you do this type of HP/Tq and traction you will need to strengthen the rear end. The TT XJS race car had the rear cage braced to the boot floor and the boot floor was warped from the twisting of the rear end. You would need to brace forward to the chassis rails.
.
right on warrjon , hi torque can actually start to tear the car body/suspension apart, bending and twisting many things, i try to use tires that break loose with less traction , my XJS has 295-35-18 on the rears, and just stepping on the gas at 10mph they go up in smoke!! but is saves the drive line components, and i have spent some time on it ,using my own ideas.
pic notice the drive shaft offset into the rear Dana 44 diff, not good for smooth hard power applications, thats Jag factory engineering, but British were never into hard torque acceleration.
Here is a screen shot of a supercharger mounted in the Vee from another forum. The messurements show the top of the supercharger 60mm taller than the original engine but to me the intercooler would need to be much bigger or tucked up behind the supercharger body. Not sure about access to the plugs and a facelift bonnet or more would be needed.
that pic is from Niles on JL site , i have been communicating with him for few months.
Ron
Warren do you know what compression ratio these turbo engines are running and are they using race fuel? Do you have more photos of the exhaust manifolds, etc?
.
john , are you really considering a hi-performance engine and not use best fuels available??
AH heck ;; just step up and use NITROMETHANE fuel, some engines can make over 5000HP using it!
pic notice the drive shaft offset into the rear Dana 44 diff, not good for smooth hard power applications, thats Jag factory engineering, but British were never into hard torque acceleration.
It is done like for a reason, if 2 uni joints are lined up there is a chance they can lock if the total inclined angle exceeds X° specified by the U-joint manufacturer. When I did my 4L60e swap I found that the transmission and diff yoke were lined up on the vertical plane (up and down) so the pinion angle is left to right.
This also offsets the pinion so the axles are equal length providing equal torque to each wheel.
It is done like for a reason, if 2 uni joints are lined up there is a chance they can lock if the total inclined angle exceeds X° specified by the U-joint manufacturer. When I did my 4L60e swap I found that the transmission and diff yoke were lined up on the vertical plane (up and down) so the pinion angle is left to right.
This also offsets the pinion so the axles are equal length providing equal torque to each wheel.
.
thats what i thought for past 50yrs, but recent testing from some of the racing communities says the best way is from engine crankshaft to the pinion should be exactly lined up both pinion offset side to side and pinion angle,up and down.
they found when driveshafts get broken its from torque being applied at an angle, and shafts twist and break!
for us old fashioned guys it makes some sense both ways,, but have no fear i aint changing things at this time, i'm not after every last detail of some theory.
I just wanted to share what I did on my intake manifolds. They look good. It took forever to do, but hey, they look good. I know there are a few people who can pick out the possible problems with this design. I already know them. This was the best I could do with my abilities and knowledge. Hope you like them... They came off my 76 XJS
I just wanted to share what I did on my intake manifolds. They look good. It took forever to do, but hey, they look good. I know there are a few people who can pick out the possible problems with this design. I already know them. This was the best I could do with my abilities and knowledge. Hope you like them... They came off my 76 XJS
They look absolutely great. The larger plenum should make the intakes flow better than standard, and the bell-mouths inside are similar to those offered by AJ6, so they must be a good idea.
What do you think they will do for performance?
Shoot. I have no idea how to post a video on here...
The sound is quite tame compared to the 'growler kit' found on the net. That thing is loud! As for the fender well side clearance, there is a lot of room left. Essentially, the plenums extend out to where the original air filters had gone. The cone air filters I have, fit right up front. Not the sides. The only thing I wish I never used were the stock throttle bodies. I should have gone to the junk yard and picked up some used ones because they would have had return springs on the flap. The originals don't have any and I had to weld brackets and springs to return the flaps back to closed position. A bit of a pain...
I kind of calculated/measured the extra length of bell mouths to get my peak power around 5800rpm with my aftermarket cams. I tried to equal the lengths out. That's why they are different lengths. I believe I measured them to hit the 4th reflective air pulse down the runner lengths. As for the plenum volume, I just made something that looked good and allowed my throttle bodies to fit nicely on the front of the plenum. AJ6 cuts open the plenum and welds little bell mouths in, but they don't equal the lengths out. I tried my best to do this.
My bell mouths are only tack welded in. To seal them completely around each bell mouth, I put fiberglass resin in the plenum and allowed it to set. It completely sealed them in. After this, I smoothed the inside of the bell mouths with the runner lengths. The joints are perfectly smooth. I can now, take a head light out and run a flex hose from my headlight bucket and it will go straight into the throttle body. For a ram air effect.
As for performance, I can't do a side by side comparison because I put re-ground cams in... My engine is a stock 1976 5.3L flathead, with 9:1 pistons. I put in a street cam that will work with my 9:1 compression. 280 dur. int 31/69 73/27. I asked for a higher lift than what they had. I asked for a .419 lift as apposed to their .358. If I did it again, I would have kept my stock duration but increased my lift to about .450" (I think this is the max size the lifter buckets can except?) This would have given me more bottom torque and more top end power. With just a little more lifter noise. AJ6 said that I will loose power with this cam because it would have stalled the air flow down the runners with this long duration. Well, it didn't. I would say these modified intakes added a good amount of low end torque and helped with my top end too.
As for my super primitive stock ECM, I had to increase the fuel ratio quite a bit at the lower rpms because it was running super lean. This means my engine was actually taking in more air at the lower rpms. (More torque then). I then had to add more fuel to the top end. (More Hp at the top end). The only thing I wish I was able to do is adjust my air/fuel ratio with a megasquirt. My car's air/fuel ratio still needs adjusting. Its a little rich at the bottom end now and I need a bit more fuel at the top. I just don't have the money for the megasquirt setup. And I don't know how to change the resistors inside my ECM. AJ6 did it for me and it took 2 attempts and 2 years to do my ECM... I don't have time to wait years for it to be adjusted again.
Oh and the stock casting of the manifolds are horrible to weld to. I don't know what material they cast the manifolds with, but they did not like to be welded to.
course time will tell.
are you sure they are 9-1 pistons, they maybe 7.8 ratio? or did you install the 9-1 pistons?
factory testing show around a 10/12 hp difference (7.8 lower). i bought from WELSH JAG, a set of 9-1 pistons. i tried for some 10-1s but unobtainium ,actual test showed 20hp over 7.8s.
who reground your cams?
i have race cams ground by Crane (Daytona FLA.), close to what you have 5.3 pre-HE.
282 duration, .410 lift(i slightly modded lash its around .400 now ,low end was rough idle, and i did pickup more bottom end torque and smoother drivaibiity.
dyno has torque peak around 4500 rpm, will run out to 6500/6700 rpm , will go 7000, but aint pullin just revin!
some thoughts on all runner lenths equal say has a sharp torque peak, unequal says lentgh strechs it out further,altho slightly lower peak! DAMIFINO.
i deffinatly agree with a custom aftermarket ECU for complete MAP adjustability.
i use SDSEFI for mine, love it, and could not go without it!
about the aluminum welding, some say that Jag at that time ,was using recycled trash aluminum, heavens knows what maybe in it?
there was a big fiasco with HD(Harley D), on there aluminum heads back a few yrs.
who knows the truth , i got the story from guy who worked in HD foundries, lotta hush hush over it!
This is what I found out about my engine, experience and research.
I have 9:1 pistons. I had the engine rebuilt years ago with the 9:1 pistons. It's still a 5.3 liter.
My idle with the re-grind is actually quite good. Only a very slight chop. I did ask for the grind with a larger lobe separation. So, this might effect my idle. Paeco did it for me... I would NOT recommend them.
My altitude here is higher (3300 feet but actually 5500 feet with the dry air), so, it seems my engine runs out of steam around 6000rpms. But, I made my intake runner lengths longer to peak around 5800rpms, so, it does what I designed it for.
If you want HP, you need shorter runners. But you loose a lot on the bottom end torque. If you had more gears on your transmission, one could get away with this. As for the unequal lengths. Yes, on paper, it makes for a smoother power band (but less power), but, I have smooth power all the way up. On paper, my equal reflective air pulse peaked at 5800 and my cam works with it. 1/2" will effect the peak pulse about 500rpms. So, I can't say the preciseness of my runner lengths. They are closer than stock though...
As for 500Hp. No way. Only by forced air can you accomplish this on a budget. Stock rods and pistons WILL handle the power of forced air. You MUST make the piston ring gaps wider. This is the key. .030" top. .034" bottom. It's the expanding piston rings that split up the piston. Obviously, you can't have fuel pre-detonation. Your A/F ratio must be set properly. Your ignition timing set properly too. 8-14psi will work with 9:1 pistons on stock internals.
As for the main cap bearing failures (spun bearings). It's because the block twists just enough to cause this. Line hone the block with larger clearances or grind the crankshaft down more. Use thicker oil afterwards.
The engine's cooling system needs major help if you want this kind of power. I did a modification that forces more coolant around the back of the engine. If you remove the coolant pipes (just under the valve covers) and make some plates to cover the holes with (oval shaped). Then drill a smaller hole in one of the plates (at the front of engine) and progressively get larger to the back of the engine. This forces the cold coolant from the radiator to flow/keep more coolant around the back of the engine. Allowing for better cooling at the back of the engine. And don't totally remove the thermostats from the engine. (Like some racers I know) When the thermostats open, there is a flap on the back of the thermostat that closes a runner, which in turn forces the coolant to the back of the engine. If you take the thermostats out, the cold coolant will only flow around the front of the engine, causing the back of the engine to over heat/fry...
I agree with the horrible aluminum manifolds comment. Soda pop cans...
you are right i dont think it possible to get a 5.3 to 500hp without spinning it to 8000rpm.
not many people drive around at 8K.
my best dyno was 355RWHP, at 6700rpm, i felt a little dissapointed ,been around to many american V8s, they make power easily!
i did line hone the main bores bout .0005, and run 20/50 all year round, some small oil galley mods, carries 65psi at 3000, 185F temps. idles hot at 10/12psi, 1000rpm.
also true in todays engine world forced induction is the only reasonable way to go.
big cubes in a Jag V12 is totally cost rediculas!
i,m bettin you could spend $30/40,000 all said and done, i had a guy bring in a ECU system ,MOTEC, $6500. not complete or installed.
i,m a turbo guy , kinda got away from superchargers, did those back in late 60s/70s.
11-25-2017, 07:43 AM
