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I will remove it, I just didn't want to take it of the road before parts were arrived if I could avoid it.
I have changed the fan 2 years ago, so I basically know how.
I also remember it was tight to get out/in, but I did not loosen the fan shroud at that time.
The clutch was a 20 min (max) job to remove. Leaving the fan down there made it easy, and that's OK to do, as I know it's new and good.
I did a flick test of the clutch with the axle clamped in a vice. It took 6 flicks to do a full revolution cold, but only 3 flicks warm (maybe 60-70°C, clearly below 100°C).
Flicktesting
Clutch is out. I found one of my 13mm sockets in the fan shrouding, great )
[QUOTE=leo_denmark;1947745]The clutch was a 20 min (max) job to remove. Leaving the fan down there made it easy, and that's OK to do, as I know it's new and good.
Hmmm... you left the fan there but took the clutch out? Interesting idea!
The clutch was a 20 min (max) job to remove. Leaving the fan down there made it easy, and that's OK to do, as I know it's new and good.
Hmmm... you left the fan there but took the clutch out? Interesting idea!
It is possible to do the entire fan+clutch assembly in one go all bolted together without tinkering with belts or any other items. I do NOT recommend it though as it requires a lot of dexterity and the sort of intuitive knowing-if-****-will-fit that some people don't have. Cardboard against the rad also helps but it does fit...atleast on 89+ yr US spec engines.
New clutch NBC2215AA mounted. It has more resistance than the old hub when cold.
In direct comparison with the clutch hub clamped on my work bench: 6 flicks to make a complete turn of the new hub, while the old can do it in 4 flicks.
No test so far, my exhaust lies on the floor...
08-15-2018, 11:38 AM
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