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-   -   V12 cooling system maintaining (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xjs-x27-32/v12-cooling-system-maintaining-219536/)

peckhs 08-27-2021 09:28 AM

I was hoping the Falcon's will do.. Cos they seemed to be easily available.. Guess not.. Haha

We do have wrecking yards in Singapore, we call them scrap yards. But they mostly export their items, and are usually not the friendliest place to find parts.. They usually need to be told what parts we need exactly

I was hoping that i am able to get the correct fan pack before the car reaches, guess not.. Unfortunately the X type was not a popular car when it was available new, so it is near impossible to find the X-type's fan pack..

Guess i will have to be patient and wait for the car to arrive and try to find which fan packs may fit..

And as a owner of a Lotus Esprit for the last few years, i have also learned :-
Alcohol consumption
Sense of humour
Ability to think WAY outside the box(at least i try to)
etc etc.
;)

Thanks!



Originally Posted by Grant Francis (Post 2433277)
Google be spot on.

I did NOT mention Falcon, as some markets (USA mainly) have a different Falcon to us, and confusion is never good.

I used the EF Falcon Taxi Pack fan assembly. Made by Bosch Germany. No Longer Available.
The Chinese knock offs, are worse than useless.

BUT
You are a Jag V12 owner now, so you must learn:
Alcohol consumption
Sense of humour
Ability to think WAY outside the box.
etc etc.

A member from Scotland, and I forget when and whom, fitted the fan pack from the X Type Jaguar. Mentioned it basically fell in, and worked well.
Others have used the X300 fan pack, a little too wide I would have thought, but if its been done, its been done.

Wrecking yards, not sure of Singapore having them, THEY MUST HAVE, is a good place to look around.

Hyundai have awesome fan packs, as do Toyota etc etc, and imagination (outside that box) is all you need.


Grant Francis 08-27-2021 09:59 PM

I hear you.

We have a newer crowd here, U Pull It. Pay $2, go in, find what you want, Pull It, Pay, Leave.
Makes a real change from the same attitude we once had, like you have now.

The guy in Scotland stated he paid 15UK Pound for the fan pack, and mentioned the X Type is NOT a loved car, so bits are plentiful and cheap.

Wait and sort to suit you, is always a good idea in the end.

Let me know if you need any more advice etc.

peckhs 08-28-2021 12:54 AM

Thanks Grant.
​​​​​​


Originally Posted by Grant Francis (Post 2433578)
I hear you.

We have a newer crowd here, U Pull It. Pay $2, go in, find what you want, Pull It, Pay, Leave.
Makes a real change from the same attitude we once had, like you have now.

The guy in Scotland stated he paid 15UK Pound for the fan pack, and mentioned the X Type is NOT a loved car, so bits are plentiful and cheap.

Wait and sort to suit you, is always a good idea in the end.

Let me know if you need any more advice etc.


Grant Francis 08-28-2021 02:40 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Found this. I wrote this from findings back in 2003.

Commodore have gone on to VZ, VE, VF, then they stopped production here is OZ.

Falcon went on to BA2, BF, FG, and then also stopped production here.

I have no fan sized for them.

The EF -EL were the only ones that were wide enough in MY opinion.


peckhs 08-29-2021 03:17 AM

It seems i will need to wait for the cat tk arrive and then search for a suitable fan pack

While i was reading up about engine cooling in general, i came across an article which wrote this-:

"When installing a thermostat place an Advil, Aspirin, Tylenol, or another pill that will dissolve inside the thermostat lip (making it sit partially open).This will allow easier bleeding, as you can fill the car with coolant and it will be able to burp through the thermostat cold."

Wonder of it really works..
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...dcb82a9510.jpg




Originally Posted by Grant Francis (Post 2433594)
Found this. I wrote this from findings back in 2003.

Commodore have gone on to VZ, VE, VF, then they stopped production here is OZ.

Falcon went on to BA2, BF, FG, and then also stopped production here.

I have no fan sized for them.

The EF -EL were the only ones that were wide enough in MY opinion.


Grant Francis 08-29-2021 04:03 AM

HA, probably
.
I always drill a 3/32" hole in the stat outer disc, and then mount the stat with that hole at 12 o'clock, and when filling, SLOW is quicker, 1 ltr at a time and WAIT for the gurgling to stop, about 4 beers usually.

If I happen to fluke stats with those jiggle pins, I simply remove those pins, instant air bleed hole, simple.

peckhs 08-29-2021 09:40 PM

I have purchased the Tridon TT228-180 an it comes with the jiggle pin.
You reckon it will serve it's purpose better if I removed the jiggle pin?
I read that the jiggle pin was to prevent debris from passing through the hole..



Originally Posted by Grant Francis (Post 2433899)
HA, probably
.
I always drill a 3/32" hole in the stat outer disc, and then mount the stat with that hole at 12 o'clock, and when filling, SLOW is quicker, 1 ltr at a time and WAIT for the gurgling to stop, about 4 beers usually.

If I happen to fluke stats with those jiggle pins, I simply remove those pins, instant air bleed hole, simple.


Grant Francis 08-30-2021 07:34 AM

What debris, the system is CLEAN, haha. Any debris small enough to do that would be of NO concern to that system.

Lots of banter on those pins over the decades. Rattling is the most common complaint. I have never used them, cut the thin shaft and expose that hole, the rest just flows nicely.

That 4 beers before is for the WHOLE fill process, NOT per ltr of coolant,
Damn, after 20 X 1ltr's, X 4beers, I doubt I could even find the car.

Must proof read a tad better.

peckhs 08-30-2021 09:30 AM

Alright, point noted about the jiggle pin.. Off it will go
Noted about the number of beers required for the car to burp itself.. But is the 4 beers after the 20 litres, or 1 beer after every 5 litres?
Hahah..


Originally Posted by Grant Francis (Post 2434255)
What debris, the system is CLEAN, haha. Any debris small enough to do that would be of NO concern to that system.

Lots of banter on those pins over the decades. Rattling is the most common complaint. I have never used them, cut the thin shaft and expose that hole, the rest just flows nicely.

That 4 beers before is for the WHOLE fill process, NOT per ltr of coolant,
Damn, after 20 X 1ltr's, X 4beers, I doubt I could even find the car.

Must proof read a tad better.


peckhs 09-14-2021 03:11 AM

Electric fan wiring diagram
 
Hi Grant, after a little reading, I think I will be going the dual electric fans route.
I read that most aftermarket controllers will eventually fail in the V12, but you have managed to avoid that using your personal solution..
There seem to be a wiring schematic that you have, but I was not able to find it in the stickies..
Appreciate if you can point me to that thread ..
Thank you.
Found this from another thread..
"The Main relay is Ign switched/activated, and the EARTH is via the Coolant Switch already in the Water Pump Inlet Spout.
The A/C is wired as a normal relay is, with the "on switching" of that relay coming from the A/C Compressor activation wire via a simple splice."


Originally Posted by Grant Francis (Post 2434255)
What debris, the system is CLEAN, haha. Any debris small enough to do that would be of NO concern to that system.

Lots of banter on those pins over the decades. Rattling is the most common complaint. I have never used them, cut the thin shaft and expose that hole, the rest just flows nicely.

That 4 beers before is for the WHOLE fill process, NOT per ltr of coolant,
Damn, after 20 X 1ltr's, X 4beers, I doubt I could even find the car.

Must proof read a tad better.


Grant Francis 09-14-2021 05:24 AM

1 Attachment(s)
AH, you mean the "mud map".

Here it is in all its glory.

Couple of things:

Battery +ve is from the LH battery post on the firewall, VIA a self resetting Thermal Circuit Breaker, 30amp each.

Ign ON source = A Grant fitted Ignition Relay, so that I had a ready Ign ON source under the bonnet for the future. I used a 5 pin cube relay, with 2 X 87 terminals, plenty of scope for later if I needed it.

NOTE: I went battery hot with the RH fan relay #85 at the start, but the ON time after shutdown heatsoak was just stupid, and annoying. No other car has that feature, except the Jaguar OE circuit, IF it works. I then changed to the Ign ON for the "85" of the RH fan relay, so when I switched OFF, the fans went OFF also, and I never, ever had an issue.
I like my car to be DEAD when the key is removed.
Also note, I NEVER shut down any engine when in HOT weather, until it has idled for about 30 seconds, very old habit, and I see no harm in it, even with the Modern Jags I now run.

If its unclear, ask and I will sort it verbally, as the scanner I have has finally died, and I will one day replace it, but that list is long.

peckhs 09-14-2021 07:22 AM

Thanks Grant!
It looks similar to how my Lotus is wired, although I am using a direct earth so my fan turns on when the ignition is on..
​​​​​​Not the best idea i know... But wont make the same mistake with the Jag..



Originally Posted by Grant Francis (Post 2439786)
AH, you mean the "mud map".

Here it is in all its glory.

Couple of things:

Battery +ve is from the LH battery post on the firewall, VIA a self resetting Thermal Circuit Breaker, 30amp each.

Ign ON source = A Grant fitted Ignition Relay, so that I had a ready Ign ON source under the bonnet for the future. I used a 5 pin cube relay, with 2 X 87 terminals, plenty of scope for later if I needed it.

NOTE: I went battery hot with the RH fan relay #85 at the start, but the ON time after shutdown heatsoak was just stupid, and annoying. No other car has that feature, except the Jaguar OE circuit, IF it works. I then changed to the Ign ON for the "85" of the RH fan relay, so when I switched OFF, the fans went OFF also, and I never, ever had an issue.
I like my car to be DEAD when the key is removed.
Also note, I NEVER shut down any engine when in HOT weather, until it has idled for about 30 seconds, very old habit, and I see no harm in it, even with the Modern Jags I now run.

If its unclear, ask and I will sort it verbally, as the scanner I have has finally died, and I will one day replace it, but that list is long.


EvertXJS 09-14-2021 08:16 AM

HI,
Just checked the thermostats I bought some time agoo. Readily available in europe:
Gates TH10981G1 (so opening temperature =81 C)
Cold ~30 mm, hot ~41mm. :)
Thought this might helps some of us...

Grant Francis 09-14-2021 09:07 AM

Evert,

Those stats are barely long enough.

That distance is 41mm approx, not measured with a micrometer, a simple vernier, and no 2 have ever been exactly the same, but close enough to say OK.

That disc needs to close that port before the stat reaches fully open, hence the 3 or 4mm extra, and the spring loaded disc.

You will possibly be OK, as temps are probably lower than here and other places.

As I have said many times, that port must be closed 100% before the stat gets to fully open. Once they get to fully open, they have lost control of the system.

Ideally I would like a slightly longer stat again, so that port gets closed earlier, and ALL the coolant os forced through the radiator.
I stopped looking when I found the ones I stated, years ago, and have had no issues, but 25 years and the options in thermostat land are better than they were.

I may go looking in the next day or two, and if I found something, update the information.

Grant Francis 09-15-2021 05:43 AM

As promised.

I spent few hours today looking at the latest crop of thermostat listings, hoping for a closed length unit of 37mm or so, as apposed to the 34mm I am using and suggesting.

Not much, sadly.

Found one, but the lower disc, for port closure if to small in diameter, and I reckon the risk of jamming is too high, so will NOT go any further with that one.

The stats open 8 -9mm, across all the brands I have access to, so the 34 is 42-43,fully open and having lost control of the cooling system, and the fact we also know that stats do NOT simply open and stay there, they are constantly moving, regulating temp/flow, so maybe the ones I selected waaaaay back are the best for this application.

peckhs 09-17-2021 02:47 AM

Tridon TT228-180 rubber seal gasket
 
My Tridon TT228-180 thermostat has arrived.

I saw in Moss Motor the EBC3577 comes with the rubber gasket, whereas the 071-226 does not.

EBC3577
https://mossmotors.com/thermostat-190-f-1
​​​​​

So my question is, do we need the rubber gasket? If we do, is the following rubber gasket the correct one for the TT228-180?

https://www.tridon.com.au/products/T...kets/887/TTG49

Thanks

​​​​
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...60f66e44e1.jpg

Grant Francis 09-17-2021 04:14 AM

NO, and NO.

The V12 does NOT use a rubber ring gasket, and those that sprout that nonesnse know less than zero about the V12.

The OE housing to cover gasket is required.
3 hole for the B Bank. EBC8331
4 hole for the A Bank. EBC8330
NOT cheap, but they work.

Using an o/ring would fracture the cover as you tighten, and drain the wallet a tad more, IF you can find them.

BUT

The AJ6 engine uses an o/ring
The AJ16 uses a Gasket.

I have seen many fit the o/ring on an AJ16, coz the aftermarket says so, the thermostat is the same part, and shattered the cover. $$ later, correctly fitted with gasket, sweet as.

peckhs 09-17-2021 04:54 AM

Thank you again Grant.
I have ordered the gasket 2 weeks back.


Originally Posted by Grant Francis (Post 2442328)
NO, and NO.

The V12 does NOT use a rubber ring gasket, and those that sprout that nonesnse know less than zero about the V12.

The OE housing to cover gasket is required.
3 hole for the B Bank. EBC8331
4 hole for the A Bank. EBC8330
NOT cheap, but they work.

Using an o/ring would fracture the cover as you tighten, and drain the wallet a tad more, IF you can find them.

BUT

The AJ6 engine uses an o/ring
The AJ16 uses a Gasket.

I have seen many fit the o/ring on an AJ16, coz the aftermarket says so, the thermostat is the same part, and shattered the cover. $$ later, correctly fitted with gasket, sweet as.


Rescue119 07-20-2022 10:46 AM


Originally Posted by Grant Francis (Post 2439786)
AH, you mean the "mud map".

Here it is in all its glory.

Couple of things:

Battery +ve is from the LH battery post on the firewall, VIA a self resetting Thermal Circuit Breaker, 30amp each.

Ign ON source = A Grant fitted Ignition Relay, so that I had a ready Ign ON source under the bonnet for the future. I used a 5 pin cube relay, with 2 X 87 terminals, plenty of scope for later if I needed it.

NOTE: I went battery hot with the RH fan relay #85 at the start, but the ON time after shutdown heatsoak was just stupid, and annoying. No other car has that feature, except the Jaguar OE circuit, IF it works. I then changed to the Ign ON for the "85" of the RH fan relay, so when I switched OFF, the fans went OFF also, and I never, ever had an issue.
I like my car to be DEAD when the key is removed.
Also note, I NEVER shut down any engine when in HOT weather, until it has idled for about 30 seconds, very old habit, and I see no harm in it, even with the Modern Jags I now run.

If its unclear, ask and I will sort it verbally, as the scanner I have has finally died, and I will one day replace it, but that list is long.

In your drawing , for the RH fan (my 16 efan), you have one side of the temp switch going to the relay and the other side to ground. If the other side went else where would that mean the switch wouldn't work?



mouserider 11-17-2022 08:14 AM

Quick question gang, i found both TT228-180 and DT18A. on ebay, they look identical, but the bottom part on DT18A is 29mm, while TT228-180 is 27.7mm . Which one is correct? Thank you


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