Has any body successfully replaced a welsh plug ion the RH rear water assembly?

When I took out the bolts, I noticed the shanks were covered in oil, does this imply that the bolt hole is threaded right through the block. I want to be able to degrease that area and would need to block the holes of I do.

Lastly, is there any benefit trying to get some water back into the block using these openings.

Thanks in advance

Coxy

 

[QUOTE=CoxynotKirsty;1156861
When I took out the bolts, I noticed the shanks were covered in oil, does this imply that the bolt hole is threaded right through the block. I want to be able to degrease that area and would need to block the holes of I do.

Lastly, is there any benefit trying to get some water back into the block using these openings.[/QUOTE]

The oil is far more likely coming from the tappet block/head joint and running down the bolts. The bolts, I think, go into the water passages, not the oilways.

No benefit from trying to get water into the block except via the filler caps!

Greg

 

Sorry Greg, that was a dumbass question, it was late.

What I meant was there any reason why I shouldn't try to flush out the engine from the two inlets at the water rails.

New plug bought, large hammer at the ready.

Coxy

 

No reason not to, IMO, a very good idea to do it. Probably best to squirt the water into the rearmost holes in the head and flush it out through the water pump inlet from the rad. Then afterwards, spin the pump in reverse by hand while you are flushing to ensure any gritty bits out of the pump impeller housing. Greg

 

Just to round off this thread in case any one has the same problem.

There are two brackets bolted to the right hand side of the engine with a steel pipe between them.

There is a steel plug at the very end of the rear bracket. Mine had a hole in it, symptom was water leaking from the very back of the engine bay but only when the engine got hot. There is a take off there for the heater, but don't assume the hose is bad and cut it off.

It is possible to remove the rear bracket without taking the front one out. The bracket had been peened over the plug and I ground it back with a Dremmel and the plug punched out easily.

The rail between the brackets is a steel tube that is 3/4" thick OD which happens to be the same dimension as copper hot water plumbing pipe in Australia. The pipe is held in place by 2 moulded rubber washers. If you search radiator fan switch MGB you will see the same part is used. There is an alternative part URP1027 which can be had for dollars. I bought mine for about $8.00 each.

The original ones had "do not reuse" embossed on them, the replacements did not.

The gaskets I bought are updated ones that were rubber coated steel and were an absolute mission to get back.

I did this with the inlet manifold on and brake reservoir in place.