Can you post a picture of the dash coming apart? I had my STR for about 7 years in very humid Houston and never had one problem?
Now if you have an XF THAT is a known problem so be sure and put your car details in your new thread.
Plus without codes we don't have any clues to what is going on?
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Welcome to the forum Candyrock,

I've moved your question and two replies to a new thread.

Please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

you need to read the codes .

 

2010 XKR. I'm new in here and I'm writing this on my I phone , so it's a bit hard to see , if I get a chance I'll take a photo of the dashboard board , my car was in Vegas then to Florida , then when it arrived I went to Jaguar to get the AC fixed , soon after the dash bubbled up and came undone , I took the car back and they said they didn't go through that area to fix the AC , so I called Jaguar they were willing to pay for half , half of 4000 to fix it , I'm like hell no you should fixed the whole thing , I'm like it shouldn't have come undone ever , who cares if there is 75000 miles on it , anyway very disappointed , I take good care of this car and it looks almost new , but now it's devalued because of that dashboard ,and yes I do look at the codes and read the manual , but i see everyone talking about how to fix stuff on here, Thx

 

OK that helps.

If you read here you can fix the leather dash several ways depending on the level of the problem.

Can you DIY any of the repairs?
Several people have pulled the dash and re-glued/stapled it back down. Others have had a shop replace the leather completely but at any rate it seems that adding staples around the edge is a big improvement over just glue alone.

You read the codes but what were they? Be sure and erase whatever comes up and let the car reset any codes. You want them to repeat to make sure they are real.
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P2601 is the code I got , could it also be the fuel filter that’s due for replacement also? Apparently it’s a inverter coolant pump .. . Is it easy to fix , could I do it my self

 

Did you fit a new battery??????

 

Hi Candyrock,

 

Now this is in the correct forum, I've tidied up the thread to remove all references to starting a new one or moving it to X150 forum.

Graham

 

Ah, the Hell of moderation.

OP, get a battery first and foremost. Since you are here because we talk about fixing stuff, read as much of this subforum as you can. Go back 30-40 pages of threads reading each one. Subscribe to the relevant threads and follow up on each. This is what I did and it jump started my ability to repair the car myself. It worked.

As said above, get a new AGM battery. Everyone has had similar problems so replace it first. Then gather the relevant codes. The coolant pump is a mother to get to. Read Cambo's pulley upgrade thread. I don't think he's done the pump yet but the car is torn down far enough to deal with it.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...50-xkr-194448/

Per the dash pulling, bad luck. Your headliner will fall down eventually too. There are many threads about dealing with both. Again, read and then ask questions. If you keep your build / repair questions in one thread it will help responder's understand the history of work done and you will get better, more relevant, answers.

 

Hi thanks , I have a funny car when I had it about 4 years the battery had died so I went to Jaguar and had it changed , soon after nothing but electrical issues , if the car sat more then 4 days the battery would die,then I would tow it to jag and they replaced the battery and it did it again , then they put on some device that was sopposed to read where the drain is coming from , they never could figured it out , well I have a system that I figured out and seems to work , if something electrical happens in the car like the control panel goes out or emergency brake almost anything , I just unplug the battery and reboot it , and it always fixes it , lol one time Jag wanted to charge me to fix something and I was like hell no I know ! they will do the same and reboot it and charge me 150 dollars , They tried to figure it out before and never did , anyway the control panel computer went out the other night and along with it the engine light , turned the car in in the morning and it was gone ? I'm thinking to get the codes checked tomorrow again just to see , I'm sure the engine filter is due to be change soon too , anyway I'll keep an eye on it , don't want to ruin my engine make things worse , but it could just be the computer / Battery like you said , sorry hard to type on this thing with a Iphone ,

 

So the check engine light went on right after I got a oil change then that icon restrictive performance went on and off too for a little while then now both are back on hmmm , the battery isn’t that old but thought maybe it’s the electrical again cuz its always something that comes on because of it , that had all started when jag changed my battery for the first time after buying my car new , I also just changed my two front tires last week ,I smell burnt rubber on front right tire , wtf is it the engine or the tires that are making that smell . Omg always some nonsence

 

Even though you bought a brand new battery from a Jaguar dealer, odds are that it wasn't fully charged when it was installed. Who knows how long it was sitting on the shelf, without being maintenance charged? If you drive only short distances, leave your XKR unlocked when garaged, leave your Smartkey in the car, or don't use a CTEK or similar battery maintainer, your battery is being discharged and may never reach a full charge. A low battery can cause a myriad of glitches. If you don't already have a battery maintainer, get a CTEK. See: www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk-xkr-x150-33/ctek-3300-battery-charger-installation-107738/

You need to better identify the source of that rubber smell: inside or outside the engine compartment? Do you hear anything rubbing or squealing ehen driving? It could be a belt, hose, or tire and the car might need to be up on a lift to find it.

Get the diagnostic codes yourself. Buy an inexpensive ELM327 Bluetooth code reader and use it with the Torque app. Then look up the codes on the internet and search this Forum. See: ://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk-xkr-x150-33/recommendations-obd-ii-readers-159541/

Good luck!

 

Do you proof read what you type? Rambling run on sentences make it difficult to follow the theme of your post and dang near impossible to help troubleshoot your problems. My suggestion, as I give my apprentices, is to always ask yourself the questions you are going to ask us (the forum) and try to answer them yourself or at least quantify the question with supporting evidence. We are more than willing to help given something to work off of.

 

The supercharger/intercooler coolant pumps do fail - mine did. I was driving home from a forum meet last June and my car showed Restricted Performance and slowed down. I had the same code you have. The code flags up and trips the Restricted Performance mode once the intake air temps get above a certain level; when the pump fails it stops the flow of coolant round the charge coolers which cool the compressed air from the supercharger. Even if you drive for, say, half an hour but don't see the code and restricted performance warning, your charge coolers will be far too hot to touch.

It has its' own fuse, in the fuse box in the engine bay (on my 2008 4.2 car at least) it's F24 which is a 15A ATO type. I found mine was blown so I changed it first, it blew again almost immediately. Changed again, blew again, decided the pump was probably shot so changed that and no problem since.

Changing the pump is a PITA but can be done on the drive. Access is easier if you remove the bumper. The pump is behind the front crash member, pretty much mounted on the end tank of the radiator. Remove the fan cover under the front edge of the bonnet first. You'll need to drop the coolant to get it out. Once the coolant is out there are two hoses connected to the top of the radiator above the pump, you'll need to remove those. Next are two hoses connected to the lower side of the pump, access is from underneath. Next, an electrical cable from the top runs between some bits and pieces into a cavity behind where the pump is located. I had a job getting that free, you'll need to wiggle the cable at the pump end around while feeling up in there for where it connects and undo it there, pull it back through and then feed the new cable in. If I remember right, the sole bolt that secures the pump in place is accessed from the top.

EDIT to add - you'll probably need to remove the cold air feed pipe into the right-hand side air filter box to get access to the hose clamps underneath too.

Once that's out, everything goes back into place in reverse order pretty much. Get the service manual for the car from jagrepair.com, the procedure for changing the pump starts on page 1616 and the procedures for draining and refilling the coolant start on page 1516.