Imagine a plastic bucket.
One is 10 years old, one is 5 years old- both cost the same to own for the next 5 years.
(btw cars are made of many such plastic buckets)

The first answer you already have right in front of your eyes is- a bucket can last 10 years without any problems.
Will it last 15 years without any problems is something no man knows yet.

So as someone else pointed out- why would you not want a car or bride that had 5 years left on it for sure!
Or you could gamble since you are good at fixing cars and be the first to find out if the 10 year old car makes it to 15 without any disintegration.

 

So what do you think? Is paying more for a 2012 worth it.

It seems to have had problems...https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistor...&partner=CDM_U

The 2007 has fewer miles and its car fax is better but that might mean its due for problems while the 2012 has had its problems fixed.

 

Yeah but the 10 year old bucket has not been used as much, has not sprung any leaks while the 5 year old buckets has had leaks and had to have them patched. So, could it be that the older bucket was made better?

 

It has had zero problems. And has been regularly serviced.

You are not paying $5k more. You will get that money back when you resell.

 

This is honest advise- cars that have not been used much end up having far more problems. Others here will tell you.

I looked over the carfax, I could not find leaks. The only thing done that was not part of maintenance or upgrade was fuel injector. This is a damn good car, plus crucially its passed the 40k mile test.

 

I'll give you one final proof.
The owner of the 10 year old bucket seems to be wanting to get into a younger and lesser bucket.

 

The OP's also not sure if he will attend the annual Procrastinators Club meeting.

 

Okay. Thanks all. I will be driving the 200 miles from home, see the 2012 which is listed at $29,999. The 2007 is listed at $23500 now and the owner of the 2007 has offered to trade my car for his. I will see how the 2012 dealer will handle it. Maybe he will accept a $5k offer and my car. Maybe he will value my car less and want more $$. By Monday, I might have purchased one or the other. I just want to have a cut off figure where I will not pay too much for the 2012. If the dealer wants $5k plus my car, its okay. If he wants $6k or $7k or $8k more than what the 2007 car wants, I have to consider where I stop.

 

Notice the nature of the problems as there is lots of service history from the first owner which probably was a lease:
- the 12V battery was replaced in 4/2013, 8/2014, 3/2016 and 7/2018. Each of those incidents probably was due to a no-start incident. This gives you an idea of how frequently the battery will have to be replaced, although if you drive at the rate of 30K miles per year your battery will last longer compared to the life experienced by those owners who drive 8K miles/year and don't bother to use a battery tender.
- the front window was adjusted in 8/2013, 4/2014, and 5/2015. This might be because the window is supposed to drop down as the door is opened. You'll probably have to face that issue in the near future.
- SRS system checked in 4/2014, 11/2014, and seat belt replaced at that time. Would you be irritated if the SRS light comes on and you have to pay $500 or $1,000 to the dealer to have the issue resolved.
- fuel injector replaced in 10/2018, after owner #2 sold the car. Probably the injector stuck open, caused engine misfire, and owner #2 had enough and got rid of the car.

None of these problems are major in nature. If you have to pay dealer retail service prices to resolve them, be ready for the hit to your wallet. Also get ready to pay to have the suspension rebuilt due to failing bushings, not to mention the engine coolant pump replaced when it starts to leak.

The link you posted for the 2007 report requires a Carfax subscription to access.

 

On the 2012, the water pump replacement comes back into play vs the 2007.
The battery life is a little strange, even if not on a tender?
The window adjustments are common on all models and I think mainly because people such and pull the door open and closed using the top of the window and not the door handles.

 

You can rely on CarFax to NOT buy a particular car because of accidents or other negative reports. But you must NEVER rely solely on CarFax to buy a car since not everything is reported to them. Do your due diligence and pay a Jaguar dealer for a pre-purchase inspection that includes a detailed estimate of the cost of repairs.

All the assurances from owners on this Forum notwithstanding, there is no guarantee that the car you're considering will be trouble-free. It's a used car and odds are that you will spend money on repairs.

If you're so concerned about buying a used car and it breaking down unexpectedly, then don't buy it. Stop worrying and buy a new Prius with a warranty. It's cheaper than a psychiatrist!

 

Since you asked this question two times but no one responded, I will do so.

The engine needs around 8 quarts of oil per change. If you wish to comply with the specifications in the repair manual, you need to use a special Castrol engine oil which is sold primarily by the Jaguar dealer. The spec has evolved over the model years. For example the 2007 model with 4.2 liter engine requires oil complying with the Ford spec WSS-M2C-913B while the newer XK with 5 liter engine requires WSS-M2C-925-A.

There are a few threads on this forum about the oil spec and which oils qualify.

Maybe you can buy it on eBay. Don't expect a typical oil change local place to have this oil. Obviously the oil change price at the dealer will be relatively high, so if you care about the price, call your local dealer and find out what they charge.

I just use 5W-30 Castrol Edge bought at Walmart because I am changing oil at 5K mile intervals or less.

As a matter of fact I've owned four Prius (2001, 2004, 2007, 2015) and all have been great appliances getting 50 mpg. There were some repair issues but mostly covered by Toyota warranty. Toyota was quick to offer extended warranties for various items that failed outside the normal warranty period.

In fact I had so few repair issues while owning Toyota vehicles that I bought the XK two years ago to have a few problems to deal with, like rebuilding the suspension and replacing all rubber/plastic parts in the engine coolant system. My sense is that the OP is not eager to own a vehicle that potentially can have problems, hence I would encourage him to forget about buying a used luxury vehicle and instead maintain his current practice of buying new Japanese vehicles and trading every three years or so. He has pointed out that he had no issues other than arranging oil changes for his cars and is not eager to deal with more.

 

I'm one of those who use the dealer for the Jaguar only. My 3 other vehicles I do myself unless it is something I can't or don't want to do any more. After 55 years of working on all of my cars from simple chores up to engine/trans rebuilds my retirement allows me to use dealers if I want to. That being said I get my oil service done once a year at my dealer. They give me an oil change along with a NYS inspection and a checklist of the major area's of the car. Things like brakes , cooling system , fluids , filters , suspension components and others. As for mileage I purchased the car in April of 2014 with 6,666 and it now has 23K on it. You can see I don't reach the 5K per year but change it anyway. By the way my dealer charges $190 for the service so other then tires and alignment this has been my only OOP costs so far. Will I ever do other work on the car , maybe and maybe not.