Time to put the Mina pulley on the 13 xkr ragtop shaft. Chris at mina suggested to put the pulley in the oven at 550 degrees. But I am too impatient. So I grabbed a cast iron coverd pan out of the barn at my dad's that is older than Methusela . (The pan . Not my dad) I put it on the stove and put the burner on thermonuclear. I used a digital thermometer that has a non-contact laser on it so I would know where the temp is at. The red dot on the pulley in the pics is the laser. U can see that I got it up to temp easily. Any pan would work I am sure. However I dont suggest using a Calphalon or other hi-line pan to cook car parts. this wouldnt be fair to your wife or girl. I will post the other pics of the pulley on the shaft and what to do in order to prevent a night mare

 

Dinner is served ... nom nom

 

I dont understand your response. The pulley has to be heated so the the diameter of the pulley is much larger than the shaft. The pulley is a press on fit with a friction hold. Once the pulley cools down the pulley wont come off or spinn cause it is loose. The diameter of the pulley shrinks by a few thousands and then it holds. There is no other way to put this pulley on other than heating it up. If your response is to make fun of me cause I am a girl that works on cars that ok too. My directions to you, and you only, to replace a pulley would be to heat it with an oxy-acety torch or to take a sledge hammer to the pulley to get it on the shaft . That way you wouldnt have to heat it in a pan or the oven. Feel free to call Chris at Mina and let him know that u might have a different thought on how to apply the pulley without heating it. Feel free to let the moderator know or the administrator that this is the advice I gave you and you only. I am not a car enthusiast. I am a hands on car aficianado (sp). Big difference

 

just tongue in cheek response to the pictures with a pulley in the frying pan ... nothing more nothing less


good luck with the install

 

Thanks for clarifying that. I didnt have too warm a welcome a while back. I am going to post pics of the pulley on and why it is so hard topull back the belt tensioner. I even took off the radiator shield to see iff I could get the drive into the hole of the tensioner without playing touchy feely. you can try to do it from the top but it is horible to see the hole in the tensioner even when using a lited make-up mirror. It is so hard to get a hand into the area of the tesioner to get the driver in. If you look at my previous pic of a part I found, u will see that I had to remove all my nails just to get my hand down there. If you or anyone else has a way to get the driver in the tensioner I would like to know, mayb ther is something I am not seeing. Thanks in advance

 

Touchy feely does it for me for the non super charged XK. What kind of gloves do you use to put on that pulley?


EDIT: For whatever reason, it is hard for me to type on this forum. It does not recognize a key stroke til I hit the key several times. So I resorted to typing on a 'email' message and then copying and pasting these words. This has little to do with your thread. Sorry 'bout that.

 

Whoa, please calm down!

As stated, a totally tongue in cheek response, nothing more........we like a laugh here and a little fun goes a long way in between sorting issues, no offence meant

Apologies about the reticent responses intitially, but as you yourself said ( or your b/f did ) it perhaps wasn't the best username if you want to be taken seriously?

We have in the past suffered from various spammers /trolls etc trying to cause trouble, so I'm sure you can see where I'm going with this.

Now we know you're bona fida, you can probably help us with some tips n tricks....lol

Ps - If you do decide you want to change your username, simply drop me a pm and I'll be happy to help.

Thanks

Jim

 

You're brave to take on this project yourself. I often come back to see your progress. Are you getting an ECU tune after the install? Who will be doing it for you?


Did you get the pulley on OK?

 

I pm'd u last week per your instructions to change the name and you never responded. so then I went public with the pic cause you didnt respond and people thought this was a set up. people also have taken exception to my posts as being non-car enthusiast. I never said I was a car enthusiast. I am a hands on car aficianado (sp) Pleas respond to getting a new user name and how to change the pic by pm me. u r rite about the boyfriends advice on both counts. Thanks for the second time

 

Got the pulley on OK. Thanks for your support. you r one of the only people taht has supported my posts. I greatly appreciate that. I used 80 weight gear oil on the shaft before I slid the hole onto the shaft. I used mirror fine paper to scuff up the pulley and shaft prior to sliding on the pulley. I heated the pulley to 600 degrees prior to sliding it on. I used the gear oil cause that was the only thing within my reach. I would suggest never using synthetic oil or Mystic gear grease as these wont melt under 700 degrees. I would be concerned that the pulley mite slip if these were used. Why did I lube the shaft?? Cause I didnt want to put a dry shaft into a dry hole and expect it not to bind up. The worst thing that could have happened here would be to get the pulley on half way and then get stuck on the shaft. Like my bf, the financial analyst always says, "Time is a commodity that can never be regained , once it is lost" I dont have the time to fix a second mess. The first was bad enough and it cost a bunch of time. I havent decided on who for a tune. I will let u know what I am gonna do. One of the ferrari guys at my bf office found a company that will sell me a OBD tune that I can use over and over again that is registered to my VIN. I havent found the time to do my due diligence Once again, thanks for your support. I m gonna post pics soon on the pulley upgrade

 

I used oven gloves that had fireplace wrap around the thumb. I held the pulley on and poured water on the snout of the blower untill it cooled down. I used that digital laser thermometer as I had in another post and let go of pulley when it reached 150 degrees

 

I've been thinking about a pulley change and ECU tune ever since I had my 2011 XKR 175, over a year ago. I now have a 2013 XKR. At the time ETG wanted over $2,000 for the tune, which I would never do. Eurocharge has a similar tune for $899. However, with ETG and Eurocharge you don't get a tune on an OBD plugin to keep which is linked to your VIN. With ETG and Eurocharged the tune is done with their equipment and is only as good as long as your ECU is not reflashed by the dealer during a service visit for whatever reason. If an upgraded ECU map became available from the dealer for any reason and they relash your ECU you loss your performance tune without the plugin. Although, I believe both ETG and Eurocharge will allow you to re-install the tune 1-2 times if you pay for the shipping costs of their equipment. Where you live in beautiful, So Cali, that should not be a problem. I miss So Cali sooooo much. I believe the OBD plugin tune is very expensive. Let me know how expensive.


When you did your pulley change you had a hard time removing your bushing. Is the pulley in 2 pieces (pulley and bushing)? What needs to be removed to gain access to the pulley?


I'm, also, very interested in your overall performance gain opinion. Please let us know. I'm glad you decided to go with the Jag XKR rather than the lame boxster.

 

I finally got the pulley on and I am running great. The factory bushing separated from the pulley, the pics with the red laser dot are the mina pulley installed. I only hear a very slight whine that is barely audible with the new pulley, but that is with the cover off. I included pics of what I had to remove to do this task. The black cover on the green paper doesnt go back on, that was the endcap for the original pulley. The part that I asked bout yesterday that I thought was a ferrule, goes into the fastener that holds on the passenger side duct work. The only new part I had to buy was the zip tie that was part of the line holder on the passenger side. Only way to get it off was to cut the zip tie. Probably 50 cents at most

 

Too much talk late lyrics of tuners not having their tunes ironed out for me... better to run rich but no way I'm paying that kind of money... ANY money on my car that's not proven.

 

Nice job. Is it the upper or lower pulley?

 

IT is the upper. I want no part of doing the lower

 

I am unaware of anyone making a lower pulley for a 5.0. Do you know someone that does?

 

I'm not aware of any lower pulley. I just thought I'd ask because I'm considering some performance upgrades:


I'm interested in a pulley change and high flow cats or down pipes (if they can be purchased reasonably) and a tune to get the most out of the mods. I wish more performance mods where available for the 5l SC like the mods available for the Nissan GTR such as larger injectors, larger fuel pump etc. I;m sure the 5l SC could easily reach 800hp with some mods. However, I'm not sure if the transmission would take it, etc. I'd like to do the simple mods if they are reliable.

 

The standard XKR torque converter might not take it long-term. Apparently that's why the XKR is limited to 510 HP, and why the 75 and the R-S have an uprated unit. Of course, manufacturers are conservative, so the standard 'box will probably be fine for a while, but you'd have to expect a shorter lifespan.

The DSG 'box in the GT-R is a thing of wonder, and can be strengthened to take stupid levels of power & torque. A large percentage of the GT-R community are modders, so there's loads of stuff to play with - and, to some extent, the car is set up to allow it. I spent about a year lurking on the UK GT-R forum when I was thinking of going that way.

Most Jaguar owners aren't interested, so there's a small market & few mods, and the car has so many locked-down integrated systems that it's hard to mess with. I know my 75 is only a part-finished version of what eventually became the R-S, and I'd love to get the e-diff, Active Dynamics and DSC software from an R-S loaded into mine (I can get the ECU map). But I haven't found anyone who can circumvent the system.

 

Do you know if the dynamic pack on the 2013 XKR includes the same e-diff and DSC software as the R-S? I thought the XKR-S had the same transmission as the standard XKR? What is the difference? The XKR-S GT has received some great reviews from some of the most respected performance car critics. Would be nice to see some of the XKR-S GT hardware and software make its way into the standard XKR or F-type.