"Permanent?," meaning to leave it on the tender all winter long you should use the battery itself and not the trunk?

Thank you,
GR

 

No, what Jagtoes means is to have a set of cables permanently attached to the battery. If you were to do that you would need to acquire an extension cord that Ctek manufactures, they are available through Amazon or Ebay. Mine is about 6 feet long. I have the Ctek mounted on a work bench and it attaches to the extension cord. The extension cord is left in trunk when the Ctek is not in use. There are members of the Forum who have more elaborate setups but the way I do it suits me just fine. Park the car in the garage, open trunk, pull out cord, plug into Ctek cord and place reminder on the steering wheel; elapsed time 15 seconds to plug in or unplug.

Scroll through the various pages in this thread and I think you will find a set of photos and instructions which will pretty much explain how to do the permanent installation. That should take no more than 30 minutes, it is fairly simple.

 

Obviously, you didn't read my post #161. If you did, you wouldn't be asking this question. Here's that link again: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-107738/page9/ See the photo inside the trunk with the negative post.

 

I did, honest, just not clear what I'm looking at vs. what I see in my trunk.
I'll take another look next weekend when can take the time.

Thank you,
GR

 

I have 5 CTEK MUS 4.3 Smart chargers working. Each CTEK is connected directly via the CTEK unit to the battery and a negative. I simply open the trunk or lift the hood and plug-in. It takes less than 15 seconds as Ralph has stated.

Be sure to add the CTEK Comfort Extension Cord. Using the extension makes it so easy to use the unit. Mount the CTEK in an area where you can visually see the unit and the LED indicators.

Then you simply plug-in. The CTEK's are great units, so easy to use, and reliable.

 

Rich - Nice to hear from you again. Enjoy the holidays

 

I'll be storing my XK Coupe outside under a car cover all winter.I will use a battery maintainer similar to the CTEK as I have with my other vehicles. My question is then: If I run a wire under the hatch, it will not lock, should I rut the 12volt 1ire under the hatch, or a 120volt extension cord, under the hatch lid? If I leave the hatch lid unlatched will the interior light stay on?

 

Just installed my CTEK...thanks for the helpful posts and comments. My question is: does the CTEK need to be plugged into a surge protector to ensure power spikes could not damage the car's battery/electrics? Does the CTEK have protection from this built in?

Thanks in advance for your replies!

 

My hatch closes completely and locks with the CTEK 12v cable sandwiched between the metal and rubber weatherstripping of the rear hatch. All things being equal, I'd rather have a 12 v. cord squeezed in there than a 120 v. cord.

 

CTEK has surge protection built in. No need for surge protector unless one brings peace of mind to the CTEK user, but it is NOT needed nor required.

 

So I finally found the battery on the 2014 XKR, behind the back trunk panel...took it to my guy to hook up correctly. He said it was quite the pain to get to and had to take somethings apart, but left me with a nice clean plug sticking out of the back of the trunk back panel to easily hook up the ctek 3300.

My final question is now that I'm storing her for the winter in an under two car garage that probably never hits 32 degrees F (how do I know, my water bottles don't seem to ever freeze over), which is the best setting to put on the ctek? Normal wet mode or frosty winter mode? My guess is normal. I don't know anything about battery type/size 2-90 and the bulk charging time, probably don't need to know, but looking to set and forget. Except for the times I walk by her in the morning and night to check that it's still working.

Thank you,
GR

 

Just curious here about how your tech hooked up the wires on the battery. Did he hook the positive + wire on the battery positive + terminal . Did he hook the negative - wire to a chassis ground OTHER THAN THE BATTERY negative - terminal.

 

He says like it read in this forum, pos on battery terminal and negative on the chassis somewhere. he also said since it's an inline fuse, it really doesn't make a difference. he could have hooked it up on the battery completely without issue. been doing it over 20 years.
I wonder if other 2013/14 XKR folks would agree here.

Thanks,
GR

 

Inline fuse has nothing to do with it, the 2010+ cars have a Smart Module on the negative battery cable right next to the clamp for the battery. That module reads the voltage in & out so it can tell the charging system what's going on.
People say that adding the neg from a CTEK will charge the battery a different amount than the Charge Module knows, therefore messing it up.
I can't see how, as battery voltage can change just from sitting, but there's the reason.

 

This ain't your fathers charging system. Part of the new charging system trend aimed at improving gas mileage.
PRINCIPLES OF OPERATION
The output voltage required from the generator is calculated by the battery monitoring system. For additional information, refer to Battery, Mounting and Cables (414-01 Battery, Mounting and Cables, Description and Operation).
The battery monitoring system signals the required voltage to the ECM via the CJB (central junction box) and the instrument cluster. The ECM then transmits the required voltage on the LIN bus connection with the voltage regulator in the generator. The output from the generator is supplied to the battery through the main battery positive cable.
The ECM will over-ride the voltage value requested by the battery monitoring system if it detects a fault in the generator. The ECM also signals the instrument cluster to display a warning message if it detects a fault with the generator. For additional information, refer to: Instrument Cluster (413-01 Instrument Cluster, Description and Operation).

 

Geez, ....and all of these fancy components and systems these days and they still use the term "generator"?
BTW, my '65 mustang has a "generator" and my '67 E Type has an "alternator". LOL!

 

The workshop manual always calls it a generator - presumably because it has an internal rectifier that means it puts out pure DC. Strictly speaking, alternators put out AC.

 

Since you're in London, is it an affront to the King's English to use "alternator" (AC) and "generator" (DC) interchangeably? Or "engine" (internal combustion) and "motor" (electric)?

Is AC/DC exempt because they're Australian? Hmmm...

 

While correct in simple terms, I was simply "playing" with the "GEN" term in this day and age. This being stated, one would be hard pressed to find a "rectifier" in my '65 mustangs generator. How about "Dynamo", this is the term often used as well?

 

I don't anyone really gives a monkey's except RedRider, who originally objected to Jaguar calling it a generator.

AC/DC are exempt because they're loud... (and because Brian Johnson is a petrolhead)

P.S. we don't got a King yet, so it's still currently the Queen's English - Liz is 91 & still marching along like an Energizer Bunny.

P.P.S. ahhh, RR, now I gerrit - I see what you did there.