Well, cranking a starter requires 400 amps. A CTEK produces about 3 amps.
You can do the math, I don't want to.

 

in general there aren't as many CO emissions at idle as there used to be. iirc it's DI engines that have drastically reduced them. saw a chart somewhere a while back. there's surely other poisonous emissions to be concerned about. there's also the fact that given enough time in a sufficiently closed/confined space, the engine will simply combust all the oxygen and you will suffocate regardless of whether you were poisoned. that said, it's possible the old movie trope of death by closing the garage door and falling asleep in the car would in reality not turn out that way for most cases.

 

The 4.2L engine is not direct injection.

If you don't die from CO poisoning while in a closed garage with the engine running, just give it more time. Or get a smaller garage.

 

ROTF

 

I'll let you know in the morning...or not.

 

You may want to download and save this ...

 

yeah i definitely wouldn't try it out with that one then!

 

In the past I've put my stored cars on stands. This way I can pop selector in 'D' and let stuff move around a bit. No idea if this helps, but in my mind has to be better than sitting for several months. Here in Ohio that could be from Nov-Dec to March or April.
Get everything nice 'n hot, let freewheel in 'D' for a bit, hit brakes a few times, shut off, repeat in a week or three ha

 

There's good and bad. I learned the hard way not to leave an old car with the suspension "hanging" after a major repairwas put on hold for much longer than anticipated. When I finally put the car back together and let it back down to the ground, it immediately needed several new suspension bushings. A lot of people do it to try to keep the tires from flat-spotting, but suspension bushes are rubber too. Leaving the wheels hanging in storage puts the bushes in an unnatural contortion for months at a time. For longer term storage I just add some extra air pressure to minimize the flat-spotting and my radials have always smoothed out after a few miles. And if they don't, tires are usually easier and cheaper to replace than bushings. If you had an old muscle-car or truck that you could support the solid rear axle on jack stands, that would be reasonable way to facilitate running the engine occasionally without taking it out in the winter weather. However, safely supporting any modern Jaguar off the ground with the suspension bushes normalized might be a challenge.

 

How many years did you leave it hanging?
I had my MG ZT V8 hanging 5 winters and had no problem, the jag is on it's fourth year and so far all good.
I had/have mice in the garage and this way they can't get to the car!

 

True, I did this mostly with older American cars. So a couple jackstands under the solid rear axle was easy enough to do. Haven't had the Jag up in the air yet so no idea how I could support it safely while loading the suspension. Honestly was going support it with jackstands and let it droop. Something I may look into. Only reason I do this though is so I can put it in gear and let the drivetrain move around without leaving garage.

 

The axle stand points on our cars scare me - don't think I'd want to be running in drive on axle stands

 

Oh, about nine months. Granted the car was nearly 20 years old already but the idea is to minimize the stress and postpone the eventual failure of parts as long as possible.

Also just thought of something else. On some independent rear suspension setups, you need to check the angle of the half shafts before you engage the transmission with the suspension unloaded. On like an old Corvette, you can't rotate the wheels with the suspension fully unloaded due to the extreme angle on the universal joints. When I do do anything like check disk runout or adjust the parking brakes, I usually try first to spin them by hand and then remember, oh yeah, I have to raise the hubs back up a couple inches before they'll turn.