Hey guys been following a lot of threads here but haven't been able to find a specific answer, hopefully you guys can help.

I got a 2011 Jaguar XK Convertible 5.0 Portfolio, I bough this car Salvaged because the rear right 3rd quarter panel was stuck and the insurance company salvaged out the vehicle. I had the wheel replaced, and the tire sensor replaced, and the body fixed.
The mechanic shop i took the vehicle to turned out to be real shady and i ended having to take them to court. (i'll explain later)

Okay now that we got the back end out of the way, here is the problem.... My car keeps dying... I've replaced the alternator(after some research didn't have to do this), I've checked the battery health and life, and both have checked out fine.
There seems to be something drawing my batteries life, and causing it to constantly die. I have bought a ctek charge to keep charging it, but this isn't an everyday solution.

I'm not good with electrical stuff, but i got basic car stills. I watched a youtube video on how to find a short, but they mention turning everything off, and i can't exactly do that, as the battery in the XK convertible is in the trunk! There are about 3 or 4 fuse panels in the XK Convertible, and I can't access any of them without the doors being open. Also it seems very difficult having a multi-meter hooked up to the battery in the trunk and running in and out of the car to check every single fuse.

Can someone teach me a little on what the amperage or voltage i'm looking for in the fuse? Can i check what is drawing power from the battery while the battery is fully hooked up?

How can i properly check the fuses to see which section of the car is drawing power from my battery, so i can locate the short and fix it?

 

Man, good luck. I've been searching for an Intermittent Drain on my F150 off and on for about 18 months now. I gave up for winter and hooked up a PRIORITY START (tm) to the battery so it wouldn't die overnight (sometimes).
The doors don't have to be closed to check, merely the latches in the CLOSED position. Easy to do with a screwdriver. Just remember to "open" them before you actually close the doors. Same with the boot lid.

 

After seeing a video on how to test for voltage drain, the video showed me to plug the battery back in properly, tighten it.

Go to the fuse box under the hood and pull the fuse out one at a time and put the multimeter into the fuse holes.

If you saw a draw, write down the numbers and research which function it is.

On my car I saw two draws. one was in the slot F17 which is TCM and it read 7.84 volts
the second was F26 which is Wiper Motor and it read -4.12 Volts.

So i think it's the wiper motor that's draining my battery, I've pull that fuse and left the TCM on in, cause i like traction control, and don't want to die. lol

After searching online about Wiper motors for Jaguars, apparently it's a thing that the wiper arm doesn't always go back into the auto park position and that could be the cause of the drain.
They tend to go bad. I'm going to clean around the motor, and remove it of any dirt and leaves. See if i can put it back into park position manually, even though it looks pretty much in it's spot.

I'll continue to narrow down the source of the drain starting with the wiper motor.

 

 

There IS a way to use "Voltage Drop" calculations by testing ACROSS the fuse while still inserted in the block. Checking for Millivolts on the top contacts on the fuse you can see which ones have power going THROUGH them without using an Amp Meter or otherwise zapping important things.
Go a Google Search, there are quite a few helpful videos on YouTube about it.