I recently replaced the rear brake pads on a 2007 Jaguar XK and wanted to share the procedure with the forums.

Here is the link: jaghelp.com: 2007 Jaguar XK rear brake pads

Anybody has any questions or comment please comment criticism is welcomed

 

Excellent post, I have always turned the rotors when replacing pads to insure proper break in. In this post however it was not done. Why?

 

Just wondering why there would be a problem with break in , on a surface with no problems? Understand scratches, out of true etc. but dont really understand why the metal a mm or two below the existing metal will be superior or different in this regard.

 

I suspect there will be some differences here but I have never had a rotor turned. They usually last if driven for normal street use in my experience up to 100K miles. If by some problem they warp then I would just replace them. Based on reading studies cutting rotors ends up getting them to the lower acceptable thickness which causes early replacement. As long as the surface is flat and score free then all I do is scuff the wear surface with emery or scotch bright . I use the usual 5 mph-60mph, 60mph-5mph pad break in process.

 

Thanks and it looks like a standard pad replacement. Although your example is with a 2007 XK I assume that 2010 and newer XKR is similar. I am disappointed that there is a need to disconnect the battery and hopefully there is another method . My bet is that there is a trick/work around that independents and even dealers use. It would be interesting to find out.

 

Thanks Daxter; it's no big deal to disconnect the battery!
I always bleed the caliper fluid into a container; a habit from working on older vehicles..............just did it on our '97 M/H, dirty fluid.
Agree, no need to machine the discs unless a pulsing pedal.

Cheers, Adrian

 

I used the factory scan tool because is available to me, just place the parking brake into service position, but someone at home would disconnect the battery... no biggie...

Is a standard pad replacement except the calipers are screw in.. and you have to reset the parking brake otherwise you'll create problems

It would be similar to an XKR unless u have performance brakes.

 

Thank you for the guide! I used it last night to replace the pads and rotors on all 4 corners of my XKR.
I did disconnect the battery while the car was in neutral but later realized that would have done the parking brake reset.

If you're doing the rears, you're not going to get by using a pair of pliers and pressure to retract the rear caliper piston. You'll need the tool so make sure you have it before you start. I wish I had bought but I needed it right away so I paid $50 for the smaller kit at Harbor Freight,

 

Would it be necessary to disconnect the battery if only changing the front brakes?

 

No. The battery disconnect is for resetting the parking brake. Front brakes are a fairly normal job.

 

I thought I had the right tool but, alas, with parts on the floor and the project in the reassembly stage I pressed on with the improvised “needle-nose pliers with shop-rag padding and gloves assist.” It was inelegant, a fair amount of grunting, certainly pain was a factor, and a quantity of “is this working?” in using this technique but I did get the caliper to retract. Now whether my brakes will ever work again remains to be seen. She’s off the lift, but like most cats; she avoids water and it is precipitating for the foreseeable future. : ) Will see when I finally get her out on the road.

 

Oh, and a thought on the battery disconnect. It seems the general agreement is that rotors should be replaced at least every other pad replacement. With that in mind, the brake line is usually disconnected per the jag manual. In order to keep the brake fluid from leaking out the brakes need to be applied with either the "special" tool or just wedge some apparatus up between the pedal and the electric seat and slide it forward the right amount. This, not surprisingly, activates the brake lights. If you don't like a dead battery from continuous brake light illumination then, heck, you already needed to disconnect the battery anyway, so, dive on in and get that thing disconnected. Now the P-brake reset is just a lucky happenstance.

And remember not to close the boot unless you have your valet key nearby. I caught myself reaching for it three times.

 

I replaced my rear discs/rotors and pads back in the summer.
The rotors had a slight lip on the outside so did indicated slight wear.
If you have a lip then the new pads might be slightly larger then the ones you are replacing
and there not sit flat on the rotor. Might need a few more miles to bed in.

I used Mintex pads and rotors bought as a package for around $100 US.
The Mintex rotors are silver coated so stop then rusting . They look good as well .

Re the battery I did not disconnect it. I released the EPB by pushing down on the lever before starting.
I used a caliper tool to retract the pistons .
Refitted in reverse order. No issues what so ever.
EPB reset is in the used manual and a very easy process.
Took about an hour for both sides.

Might need to keep a check on the fluid level as if the reservoir is full beforehand then by retracting the pistons the level may
increase and over flow.
I have had the rotors/discs skimmed on previous cars but the cost is not much less than a new set of discs( non Jag of course]
but to OEM standard

 

I hear you and fully acknowledge there is almost always more than one way to get the job done. I was just trying to put a positive spin on pulling the battery. I’m no mechanic, just an interested do-it-yourselfer.

It seems some just choose different places to cause their potential leak-points. 😉 The Jag manual seems to have concern of damage to the line while while fussing with the disconnected caliper in your method. I experienced leak difficulty reconnecting the line to the caliper with the banjo bolt. It is what it is. 🙂

 

Hi Northwest,
I agree there is always more than one way to crack an egg😎

 

Easy as apple pie job