Ok guys, I guess the questions should be 0W-30 or 0-W40 or even 0W-20?

Please see attached link.

Andy, you're gonna love this.

FerrariChat.com - FAQ: Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas)

It is a long read but well worth it if you ever wanted to know everything about oil. Very informational and again, well worth the read.

Enjoy

I enjoyed the article a few years back and the depth of it was pretty interesting. It seems every car form has a oil post. If you do read it get ready to sit for a while as it is long.

I got a kick out of the test at the end to see how well you absorbed the material.

I did find multiple points very useful in regards to oil viscosity at start-up and how long it takes the oil to reach it's operating temperature. There were others but best to read for yourself.

Mine would be considered severe duty as I do have a short drive and lucky if the oil is at temp by the time I get to work. I will stick with the 5k oil changes and I guess winter/summer doesn't really matter as much as what is best for the car.

Another nicety I had in the Ferrari was we had a oil temp gauge which was I think in every model sense the 60's.

Thanks Dpez, I skimmed it and will try and find time to read properly later, Uni is a long time ago :(

Stopped by Jaguar yesterday and picked up a filter and new drain plug.

Hit Walmart this morning to see my options and grabbed the Castrol Edge 0W-40. Only options for Castrol Edge grade 0 were 0W-20 or 0W-40 and wanted to at least stay within the Jaguar specs of 0w-30 through 5w-40. By the way they didn't have 5W-40 either.

Would have preferred the 0W-30 but was only available in Mobil 1 which isn't a bad thing but wanted to try the Castrol this time. Will probably go to Mobil 1 0W-30 for the winter and see the difference for myself. Car is quieter than before but that always seems the case with new oil.

Performed the change this evening and took a pic of old vs new. New is on the right if you couldn't tell :).

When I got the car, the oil on the dipstick was so clear it was hard to read. Not that it was black on the dipstick when I changed it. It was the more like the color of the new oil, actually lighter than that. Just cause it looks clear doesn't mean it is. Your looking at a thin film on the stick which would appear more transparent.

I had the receipts from service and the oil was changed at 37,600. I did my change at 43,000. Talked with the owner of the indy shop as he had done some other repairs and took my car in as the blower motor wasn't working and they were replacing for me. Asked about the oil change as the receipt only said full synthetic oil change and he said they used Mobil1 and there was a Mann filter installed.

I guess I could send off to lab and see what they say and may do that, just have to look it up again, I know it's here somewhere.

Thank again for the input guys and hope you enjoy the information I found.

Check out Shell's Rotella T6 motor oil. Very highly recommended and actually costs less than Mobile1. A lot people on the Lotus forum use it. I bought it gallon jugs that had a $5 or $10 rebate with them.

Shell Rotella® Products - Shell Rotella

I look it up moses, Have some long running parts in the CNC right now and doing some research. Based on the paper by Dr Haas and Ford Spec M2C-913-B. I saw where Ferrari ships there cars with the shell products.

The 0W-40 is to thick to be in optimal range for my conditions now but the 0W-20 wasn't in the ford specification.

Which by the way, good luck finding any oil with the designation M2C-913-B which is basically saying to use a full synthetic. The M2C-913-A spec was for a synthetic blend which has nothing to do with us. Apparently B was replaced by M2C-913-C which was replaced by M2C-929-A which was replaced by M2C-946-A, so at least I got that going for me :). The current oils actually show M2C-929 & 946-A compatibility, took quite a while to find that out. So whatever you use should be 929-A or 946-A compatible.

I expect the 0W-40 that I just put in would make the car run hotter in the summer which is something I don't want with our finicky cooling systems. So I will switch what I just put in, out. Maybe after 100K the 0W-40 would be a good choice for me but that also contradicts some of the statements made by the DR. Even though he did have a couple of contradictions.

Here's a few I found that meet Ford Specification for M2C-946-A:

Brand
Castrol Edge 5W-30

Wasn't done, just must have hit post

The M2C-913-B spec is for 5W-30 oils and below are the ones I checked.

Castrol Edge 5W-30 Viscosity @ 104F = 72, @ 212 = 12.21
Mobil 1 5W-30 Standard Bottle @ 104F = 61.7, @ 212 = 11.0
Mobil 1 0W-30 Adv Econ Form @ 104F = 62.9, @ 212F = 10.9
Mobil 1 5W-30 Ext Perf. @ 104F = 59.8, @ 212F = 10.6

The number we are looking for here is 10 @ 212F based on the information from Dr. Haas. The 104F is at start-up (he used 75F which I couldn't find numbers on from the oil sites) of which all oils are to thick and thus why 90% of wear is at start. And by the way it takes the oil 15-20 minutes to reach operating temp so don't just get in and floor it.

Now in the owners manual it says the oil must comply with API SM and ISLAC GF-4 but doesn't mention the Ford Specification M2C-913-B.

However the workshop manual from Jagdocs only mentions the M2C-913-B specification, go figure.

So based on that the PDF from Castrol Edge, 0W-20, 5W-20, and 5W-30 meet the API and ISLAC specs but not 0W-40, it only meets API SM

Shell Rotella 5W-40. @104F=87, @212F=14.2 also does not comply to ford specfication. Did meet API-SM but no listing for ISLAC rating. Owners manual say API-SM and ISLAC GF-4 not or so don't know.

The Castrol Edge 0W-40 I have now is @104F=79.31, @212F=13.5
Should have done more homework before putting in :). Not that it is bad but knowledge does help.

Did find out an interesting thing about oil changes.

When I got my car the level was about 3/16 to 1/4" above max line.

Did my change and filled the oil to max after drain and filter. Started and ran for a few minutes it dropped to the min line which is normal.

Shut off and waited about 20 minutes and then filled to max line. This morning I checked the oil level and it was about 3/16" above max line.

Must take a long time for all the oil to get back in the pan, so fill it to half way between min and max after starting then wait until the next morning to top off.

By the way all the mobil1's listed were API-SM and ISLAC-GF5 which supersedes GF-4 and thus compatible.

A thicker oil isn't going to hurt anything. I've got 0w40 Mobil 1 in the VDP right now because it's what I had at home. I always ran it in my LS1 powered GTO. I figured I'd go to the Edge 5w30 because I haven't used Castrol in many years and Jag recommends Castrol anyway. I'm not stuck on brands and don't worry about using the wrong brand or weight in a car because there really isn't such a thing, but now that I've depleted my oil supply at home it wouldn't hurt to try something else.

Also the number I'm most interested in is the cold crank viscosity which for your 0W Castrol was 6,200 and 5W was 6,600.

Couldn't find the Mobil 1 data as it wasn't listed on their site.

Checked out Penzoil Platinum 5W-30 and it was 4,000 @ -30C or -21F which is the lowest and would correspond to the AMSOIL chart link I supplied in an earlier st.
Other specs were @104F=56.9 and @212F=10.3

Castrol and Mobil had the highest Cold Crank Viscosity in that category and Penzoil Ultra was on the low end but Platinum wasn't tested.

Torrid, If you haven't read the Dr Haas link above and have some time take a look. Not that thicker oil is in anyway bad but it reduces flow and therefore less lubrication. That's why the manufactures have that optimal # of 10 at operating temp. And why all the newer cars are progressing toward thinner oils. Even the 5.0L SC is running 5W-20.

I'm sure the 0W-40 won't hurt anything either and I'm not dedicated to any specific brand.

Just looking for what is best for my location and driving conditions to provide longevity for my car. I'm sure all the oils are comparable whichever brand you decide to use.

I'll probably just stick with one of the 30 grades as they are closest at operating temp.

And while I was looking I figured I'd post some useful information so other members may benefit in the future.

Actually wanted to fix the one statement above, looked again and Mobil 1 was about the same as Penzoil in cold crank viscosity.

The reason I am more interested in cold crank is that I have a daily driver, winter, spring, summer and fall in a northern climate. I am looking for the oil that will give me the best performance year round if possible. If not I will do a swap for summer/winter but the oils of today are much more advanced than those from days of old when that was recommended.

I see Torrid is in Nevada so yeah big difference in driving conditions, ambient temp, etc. Even though the article says that doesn't mean much.

The whole thing that started this search for me was that my owners manual said the 30 grade oils don't provide protection for temps over 95F? If oils operating temp is around 212F what does it matter if it's 95F out. And nowhere on any of the oil sites did I see any reference to max ambient temp, minimum temp, yes.

They did list a flash point at like 200+ degrees Celsius.

Yep, pretty familiar with Dr. Haas. Even though I haven't been on the site for a long time, I'm a member at bitog and that was a huge topic over there. I mainly ran the 0w40 for oil pressure and extra anti wear properties for the push rod motor in the GTO. It really isn't necessary in the Jaguar V8. I'm actually debating whether I'll run 5w20 in the Lincoln LS. Even if the oil is thinned in the heat, the Edge specs should make up for that anyway in the XJ.

Here's one last link link for you guys from the Petroleum Quality Institute of America.

March 2013 - Test Results for AP

Shows their test results on quite a few oil brands for 5W-30 Oils. All the major and a number of ones I never heard of.

By the way all of the above were API-SN which supersedes SM and ISLA-GF5 which supersedes GF-4.

And I swear this is the last link, just found the story to be interesting.

The surprising truth about motor oils

OK, just 1 more :)

Best Synthetic Oil ? Compare Reviews and Ratings | Bestcovery

This is the one that talked about Castrol, Mobil1, Amsoil, and Penzoil.

Shell's Rotella oils are designed for diesel engines. I use the T-6 in my MB Sprinter van 5 cyl diesel engine. They are loaded with additives. Yes you can use it in an internal combustion engine but I would rather use Red Line or Mobil 1 Extended Mileage oil in my Jag.