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... As stated above, get an actual CHARGER, the bigger the better.
Trickle, maintain, boost, jump...... those are terms that you do NOT want to go with.
Quit screwing around trying to get something to MAYBE work for cheap. You paid a whole lot for your car so you can pay a whole "lot" for a charger. Do what I did, and I'm sure a lot of other members have done.... you'll need one of these anyway if you get into SDD diagnostics stuff...
Bigger is not necessarily better. Here's my battery charger:
I inherited this battery charger from my father, who I believe bought it in the 1950s. It still works great and gets the job done. I have no need to spend $350 for a battery charger that's bigger than a mini-fridge and that I can't pick up with one hand.
My antique battery charger is perfect for my occasional needs. I don't need circuit boards, computer chips, or automatic everything programs to charge a battery.
Well... if you have plenty of time on your hands ;-)
10 A vs 100 A or 150 A. Which one do you think will charge faster and provide enough power even if the battery is a lead weight. (LOL, I'm the funniest guy I know)
and the same amps... so not sure if any better in reality but I may be completely wrong. I saw on a US video someone using the model I bought to start a XKR from a dead battery.
Listed Amperage on a Jump Start Box means absolutely zero. They output half the advertised amperage for less than two seconds. An actual CHARGER will output 200 Amps until something explodes hours later.
JUMP BOXES ARE NEARLY USELESS IN EVERY SCENARIO, except in maybe a mild emergency when you don't have access to an actual Charger.
Bigger is not necessarily better. Here's my battery charger:
I inherited this battery charger from my father, who I believe bought it in the 1950s. It still works great and gets the job done. I have no need to spend $350 for a battery charger that's bigger than a mini-fridge and that I can't pick up with one hand.
My antique battery charger is perfect for my occasional needs. I don't need circuit boards, computer chips, or automatic everything programs to charge a battery.
I like old things that still work. Like me!
I also have an old (not YOUR old) ten amp Craftsman that I got from my father when he passed, bought in the '70s. I still use it to charge batteries, but using SDD takes a LOT more than that little thing can muster. I got the Schumacher specifically FOR using SDD.
JUMP BOXES ARE NEARLY USELESS IN EVERY SCENARIO, except in maybe a mild emergency when you don't have access to an actual Charger.
Well... I charged up the thing that I bought - which I did get a few negative comments about ... turned off the smart charge element... attached it to the back seat charging point and what happened was the car started and I was able to open the boot... It's dark now but tomorrow I am going to attach my other charger up and hopefully it will have enough voltage to trickle charge the battery. Passenger door still not closing for some unknown reason (would this be because I opened using the emergency key?) but I am keeping all the doors and boot open just in case.
Nooo!!!
Can't keep anything open or all the modules stay alive! It has to be closed up, other than the windows or you will Discharge more than it will Charge (depending) with the modules up and running.
hmmm, not sure about that. My car completely shuts down after ~10 minutes with the boot left open. And the doors left open too. Of course the fob is no where near the car when this happens.
Without the alarm system activated, it seems I don’t have the same discharge rate as others,. I don’t lock it while it is in the garage . And even after sitting over the winter, she starts up fine every spring.
and so i needed to remind myself: that’s right, I had the “passive arming” of the alarm system, disabled.
Aren't the doors still mechanically operated? If so, just close your doors and boot. I'd probably leave the driver's window open as a safety. Worst case is you have to jump it again tomorrow. Since we don't yet know what caused all this in the first place, no sense tempting fate by leaving the doors open to possibly really drain the battery.
I would charge your box again tonight (that sounds really bad! ).
As far as the passenger door, look at the latching mechanism in the door. Did it get flipped closed by chance somehow? It should be open and look like the driver's door latch. If it did, you can pop it open with a screwdriver. Just put the screwdriver into the latch, so it's acting just like the body door latch post, open the door handle (like you would to open the door) and move the screwdriver inward (pull/move the screwdriver towards the car interior, while pushing out on the door assembly, it should move the latch open easily)
..... I charged up the thing that I bought - which I did get a few negative comments about ..... Passenger door still not closing for some unknown reason .....
Good to hear it had a happy ending. I've added 'RESOLVED' to your thread title.
After all the drama, it's likely you will have to cycle lock/unlock/arm/disarm with the smartkey to get the security system synchronised.
Read my recent post, and how the RAC man got my boot open.
I then got a locksmith to fettle the key barrel of the lock behind the number plate, so that now works. His theory was that it had not been fitted properly at the factory, and not tested. He just fitted it properly, which was a bit tricky.
A philosophy to live your life by...
... turned off the smart charge element... attached it to the back seat charging point and what happened was the car started and I was able to open the boot... It's dark now but tomorrow I am going to attach my other charger up and hopefully it will have enough voltage to trickle charge the battery. Passenger door still not closing for some unknown reason (would this be because I opened using the emergency key?) but I am keeping all the doors and boot open just in case.
