Anyone who knows the fault codes and issues, please feel free to advise and help me get these niggling issues sorted. ( Scroll for pics of fault code readings. )

 

If you don't get any specific replies, Google "fault code (enter number) for each code. Although codes may differ between manufacturers, that should point you in the right direction. Note that, before Tata, Ford owned Jaguar and the X150 uses Ford electronic components, so the Ford results probably apply. And maybe Volvo since Ford owned them, too. Good luck!

 

Cheers for your suggestions buddy, I will take a pop at those and see if I can make any sense from them.
Very much appreciated !!

 

Download the free X150 service manual and reference the codes in the actual book. Google has led me down the rabbit hole before with tips on fixing vehicles I'm not working on.

 

Before you begin chasing all these DTCs, which are intermittent, check the battery voltage across the terminals. If less than 12.6 volts, charge the battery at 5 to 10 amps overnight and retest. If still less than 12.6 volts, the battery should be replaced. Note that the voltage must be checked with the ignition in the OFF position for at least ten minutes.

Many of the electrical 'faults' chased on these forums are ultimately the result of a failing or weak battery.

 

Hi buddy, Cheers for the advise there !! Any and every bit appreciated. I have already had a new battery fitted and tested and that reads fine. So does the one I took off, but I thought I'd replace it just in case !! hahahaaaa
There is the on going issue with the Check pedestrian safety system warning light coming up every day, I am looking into having that bypassed because its damn annoying every day.
The main thing that got my attention originally was the remotes zapping their battery in 2 - 3 weeks, the car then closed me down just like the low battery sympton. ( That was why I put new battery ) .
However since that issue.... I get the amber check engine management and all these codes.

 

Your car appears to be haunted by the Ghost of Lucas Electrics.

This might help, even though it has Ford electronics.

 

I get about a month out of a remote battery. Maybe more when it's warmer out.

Did you download the service manual yet? There's a link to it in the stickies at the top of the subforum.

 

I've never had any problems with my remote batteries failing prematurely, except for the cheap Chinese copies I foolishly bought on Ebay years ago. Make sure to buy only genuine name brand CR2032 batteries locally and check the date on the package to make sure you're buying fresh inventory. It's worth the extra cost. And keep a spare CR2032 battery in your glove box just in case your Smartkey dies.

P.S. My Smartkey batteries last for years. My XKR is not a daily driver, but XJ is. No problems with either fob.

Note that Duracell sells their CR2032 as a "DL2032". It's dimensions are identical to the CR2032, and has a different name to justify a higher price.

 

Just because a battery is new doesn't mean it's fully charged, or has the correct voltage output. Quite often a 'new' battery sits on the self at a parts house for several months prior to being sold.

Do yourself a favour and check the voltage to effectively eliminate the battery as a possible cause of random DTCs.

 

[QUOTE=Stuart S;1995250...................... My Smartkey batteries last for years. My XKR is not a daily driver, but XJ is. No problems with either fob...............[/QUOTE]

Same here. My first battery replacement was about three years ago, and not since. Still works fine, even.

Now my F150 remote batteries are a DIFFERENT story. Those probably go about a year max. More likely nine months or less.

 

My TPMS tester has a key fob test so I check them periodically but usually replace them every 2 years.

 

Mine usually lasts 2+ years; and my XKR is my daily driver.