WE are still having problems with our newly acquired 2013 XK,with 22,000 miles. I posted this a few weeks ago, and since then we have brought it back to the dealer yesterday (Monday) here in CT. They cant find any error codes, and can't duplicate the problem,,They still have the car, but cant figure out the cause.
Soooo I am posting the symptoms again to see what the vast knowledge of the members of this forum can suggest..

This problem has happened 3 times in the 600 miles that we have had the car. Twice on a normal operating temperature start, and once on a cold start after the car was parked all day.
Each time, the car was started and driven slowly 50-100 feet to a stop sign (not using paddle shift). When trying to drive off from the stop sign, there was a total loss of power, the car would not accelerate. No warning lights came on. Luckily, we were able to safely limp it to the side of the road out of traffic. While stopped, the car idled fine, and WITHOUT TURNING OFF THE MOTOR we were able to drive off normally about one or two minutes later.
Each time this happened, we were on dry roads without any sand cover, clear sky with low humidity.
This could have been a real serious safety issue if we were trying to enter I-91 or I-95 from a rest stop!

Any ideas?
Sure hope someone can help!
TIA
STEVE

 

Without a code it is tough but considering these cars are "fly by wire" throttle which I believe is a variable resistor I would ask if they can verify the throttle switch on the gas peddle and the one on the throttle body. Just a guess here

 

This is the first time anything like this has been reported, as far as I know, so it is not a "known problem" - that is to say, it is a specific and potentially dangerous issue with your particular car.
Possibilities: a problem with the mass air flow unit, a fuelling issue, an insecure electrical connector, and here is the interesting one: rodent damage to wiring! This last possibility is far more common than most people realize; I have seen it numerous times, most recently in my son's new F-Pace! The Jaguar dealer told him that they have replaced several wiring harnesses because of squirrel/rat damage (and there were no codes showing). If by chance this is the issue it is because the rodents have eaten the insulation on wires.
Your symptom, though, seems restricted to starting from rest, not at higher rpm, so it might be something else. Given the low mileage, one would think that the cause would be easier to find than on a high mileage car that could have multiple problems. Whatever is found, could you be sure to report to us?

 

Agreed. Throttle problem was the first thing that came to mind.

 

Did the engine rev when you tried to accelerate and it just wouldn't move or did the engine not rev when you tried to accelerate? When you say a 'total loss of power" did the engine shut off or not? I would ask the dealer to put it on a lift and see if they can duplicate the issue while on a lift.

 

As others have said, this is a rather new occurrence, and it seems few have encountered it.
To clarify in hopes of others jumping in with more...
1.) This has only happened after coming to a complete stop?
2.) This only happens very early in your drive, or throughout the day?
3.) Engine Warm up times do not come into play?
4.) Please tell us your fuel of preference...
5.) Please tell us the miles on your car.

I look forward to hearing other thoughts based on your response

My personal gut feeling is a bad sensor, but those typically throw a code. I dig deeper than normally is needed, but it seems like a problem transitioning from open loop to closed loop mode.

Lets get us a tad more info, and we can turn some of the more skilled minds here to work the problem... We've got good people, that love a challenge!

Welcome BTW, your among Jag lovers and friends here.

Vince

 

Really weird - and scary.

The throttle is likely like the others (such as mine) and has 2 variable resistors, used to detect a failure. Throws codes if so. (And you get messages about reduced performance - wording for your car likely similar or better as it's a lot newer). So, I doubt it's a throttle fault - but I can't say it's impossible.

A lot of things would at least throw a Pending code. If you get your own OBD tool and the car does it again try checking for those as well as actual codes. Clues would be great.

I don't know how fast your car goes CL (closed loop) but maybe it's to do with that or it even realised it had a problem and couldn't go CL as planned. For a feel for what the car's doing when it gets to CL have a look at
www.onboarddiagnostics.com/page02.htm

I know that says ENGINE BASICS yet looks scary. Well, it sort of is and isn't. The PCM just keeps reading sensors, looking up fuel etc values in tables and controlling the actuators, many times a second. (And it should say IAT (intake air temp) not MAT for our cars but same idea.)

When OL (open loop) it's ignoring almost everything but the MAF (and throttle?) so in case the fault occurs OL I think it would then have to be something simple but vital.

When in extreme distress the car basically tries hard not to cut the engine completely but it can in effect be unable to do much at all and this sounds like what is happening. Really unusual. Even more unusual that it doesn't do it all the time.

I wonder if a blocked fuel filter or failing fuel pump might be the cause. Can't really throw a code for a filter...

 

Thanks for the early responses, I really appreciate the help and suggestions!

michaelodonnell123
When we started up at the stop sign, the engine did not want to rev up, it did not want to accelerate, just kind of drove a little bit above an idle. It never shut off, and it never ran rough. We were able to limp it over to the side of the road. We didn’t shut it off. By saying “total loss of power” I mean it didn’t have any power to accelerate. After about a minute of trying to assess what was happening, the gas pedal was applied again, and we drove off,,, magically everything was fine!

Clever Name,
The car had 22,000 miles on it when we picked it up a few weeks ago, we have only been able to put an additional 600 miles since then. During these 600 miles, I would estimate 25+ starts. Hard to estimate the number.
1) This has only happened three times after starting the car, then driving at idle 50 -100 feet to a stop sign (complete stop). Then on trying to accelerate from the stop sign, it just drives a little bit above idle. No response to accelerator. No misfiring.
2) This has only happened three times in our 600 miles of ownership. Twice with the car at normal operation temp, and once at a cold start after the car was parked all day.
The two normal operating temp incidents were, one after restarting the car after driving 15 miles, and one after driving 80+ miles. After the 80 mile incident, our trip that day continued for another 150 miles with at least 7 more stop/starts, with no problems. Sunny mild days, no rain, no humidity. No sandy road surface, no wet road surface.
3) Engine warm up? Nothing more than normal ie start the car, put on seat belts, adjust the radio, and on our way.
4) Fuel always High Octane

Is there any thought to a tranny problem? Like it doesn’t want to shift back to first?

I must say that the Crest Dealership Service Manager Dominic, Service Tech Matt, and Sales Manager Eric have all been very concerned and helpful trying to solve our problem.

Thanks Again for the help and suggestions
Steve from Canton

 

Even if it was the tranny the engine would still be capable of a rev, it would just "lug" in the wrong gear.

Question, when you pulled over and sat, did you put the car in Neutral or Park? Did you try to rev when out of gear?

I would be asking to see the cars repair history in the Jaguar system, if you can find the home dealer that the previous owner used perhaps see if there were evaluations that were not put into the system. I would look to establish if this car has a history of this behavior.

 

When I brought my Jag home from the dealership when I bought it, I drove it with the heater on for the first time - never had the heater on during the test drives. When I got home about 40 miles away - I pulled into the driveway, started up with the entire family loaded up and pulled out. About, 3 houses away - the car just sputtered and died. Man i was pissed!!! Anyway, to make a long story short.... I pulled it into the garage, did a battery test and low and behold the dealership gave me a drained battery. Running the heater must have drained the already dead/weak battery the rest of the way. Probably dead from sitting on their lot. I topped it off with my battery charger and the car has driven like a champ ever since!! Here is the video I used to learn how to test the battery. Being that you have only had your car 600 miles since getting it from the dealer, top off your battery and hope for the best! You would think that it would be the first thing the dealership would look for, but you would be surprised. I mean, they did sell me a used car with a dead battery in the first place. You would think that a big national Jag dealership would know that they shouldn't sell a used Jag without a proper charge.

 

BonnerBB,
I think you have more of a problem than a drained battery from the dealership. IF it started at the dealership and you were able to drive it 40 miles home, even with any/all electrical devices running at maximum, the charging system should have put something back in the battery. Of all the electrical devices in the car, the starter motor will put the biggest load on the battery. Since it was able to start at your house there was enough in the battery to run the starter motor and the engine electronics. After it starts the charging system MUST be able to supply MORE than the electrical load of the car. If not, you have a charging problem.

I don't have enough information to explain why the car died after such a short run. I would be VERY surprised if the only problem was a just low battery from the dealership.

 

Well when I tested the battery it was very low and the dealer had to boost it to for one of my test drives. I charged it properly and I have yet to have a problem with the car since.

 

WELL, the dealer had it for a few days and couldn't make it happen,, soooo they suggested that the problem MIGHT BE driver error, ie touching the paddle shifter whist turning the wheel,,,,, they did say to bring it back if it happens again,,,,
we'll see

 

I hit my paddles with my knee sometimes, mostly when I first start out and get settled into the seat.