ooh I like that one.

 

I was just considering this one till Sean posted a tempting option.

 

Whoa!. I'd probably dent my door in the process of removing the lug

 

Yep, I like that one too. 24" of leverage should definitely break any nut loose. Another advantage of that one is that you can use your jack under it if needed, to gain advantage of the weight of the car to loosen a frozen lug nut. Right now I just have a 1/2" breaker and socket.

 

Many Thanks. I did not know that trick, could have saved me much agony in the past.

 

I agree; you definitely should keep a 19mm socket in your car. But why pay $13.99 for a 3-piece set with 2 sockets that you'll never use when you can buy this and save $10 (or more with a store coupon)? I'm fortunate to have a Harbor Freight store close by. Otherwise, buy it online.

 

3 big reasons. The socket I posted is a thin wall socket and fits where regular impact ones dont. I do have a problem with this on my truck that has aftermarket wheels. I have to carry a regular non-impact 3/8 drive deep socket in my glovebox just to take the wheels off. Its got a nylon lining to prevent eating into the wheel. Its $14 for 3 sockets or $10 for one. Keep the 19mm and sell the other 2 and make money!!

 

That's the socket I have! I also have a torque wrench in a case right next to the spare.

 

See my Post #10 in this 2014 thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-nuts-132368/



It's still the same price.

 

I too have been surprised at how flimsy the original lug wrench is… and how tightly the lug nuts were torqued. Good solution.

 

it seems some having issues with the engineered solution, didn’t follow the rules;
1. do not use an impact gun
2. use the appropriate metric socket
3. torque appropriately.

I always “break” the initial hold by using my 1m breaker bar. No issues whatsoever.
incidentally, the wrench in the boot is for emergency use, not continual maintenance use. I wouldn’t expect the hollow handle to take the abuse of continual usage.

Cheers

 

Maybe a little anti-seize on the threads as well. I tend to rotate tires every oil change for my vehicles. It is not bad practice to remove wheels and inspect brakes, etc every 3K-5K miles. This way you are less likley to be in a situation where the lug nuts are completle frozen from not being removed in decades. I still stand by the one piece solid lug nuts as the 2 piece tend to deform. I have experienced this on other vehicles, but due to the wheel style was able to easily remove. The Jag and Senta wheels and deep cavity of lug hole area seemed to introduce more difgficulty in trying to remove the cap portion of the lug nut to get to the actual threaded part.

 

fixed that for you

 

Don’t think I’d put anti-seize on the threads. On the mating surfaces, yes (flat part of nut & back of wheel).

 

Based on this thread and others, I became fearful of being stuck on side of road- unable to change a flat. So I did an inspection- each lug nut, one by one- removed, inspected, and a touch of anti-seize on each one before installing to spec. Here is what I found. They were all perfect, I great shape, and looked very well-built and sturdy. In other words the PO’s of my ‘09 Portfolio always did the work right (or had the tire work done by pros). Also, I have placed a 19 deep with beekeeper bar in my trunk so I don’t get caught. Thanks to all for the heads up.

 

when i lived in MA i used a thin coat of molykote on the face of the brake disc where it contacts the wheel, and on wheel bolt threads. never failed me.
that was over ten years ago, and i still have this one tube of it, more than half full probably. pretty sure it affects torque reading but just go 3-5 pounds over spec and you're good.