Rear Sway bar Stabilizer bushing replacement
 

Later this month I am planning on replacing the rear bushings in a 2008 XKR SC.

I would like to know if it is in any way possible to do this without having to lower the rear subframe (as indicated by the service manual) ?

Any input or advice would be greatly appreciated - perhaps Brutal may chime in if he happens to see this ;-)

Thanking you all in advance,

Phil

Which bushings specifically? If the ones indicated in your thread title then new links with bushes prefitted can be had new for under $30 and take minutes to install.

Details, please.
Thanks.

Actually $20 for OEM ZF

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/jag...-link-c2c18571

Remove 2 nuts and old stabilizer link and reverse with new.

If if he is referring to the sway bar and not the stabilizer, it’s a little trucker but can be done. I used poly bushes on mine from Powerflex.

the rear sway bar / stabilizer bar (same thing) bushings have to be replaced from the TOP of the subframe. Very tight and tricky to get to. There is no issue with locating the replacements which are indeed very cheap.
I do not want to have to drop the subframe.

Any success on replacing the bushings? The rear squeaky noise is starting to get bad and WD-40 can only do so much.

I'm looking to replace them with the powerflex bushings, but without lowering the subframe it must be a pain.

tagged...

I replaced these bushings from the top... It's a PIA, but doable. You just need to have patience, because it is going to take you a few hours to replace them... Just don't do what I did and have to do it twice. :icon_bricks: Here is a link to a thread where I documented it...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-both-220673/

Nice. For some reason I thought that thread was for the front ones only.

So no subframe drop? Standard tools/wrenches? Did you end up having to use that crow's foot wrench for these?

I'm guessing you also disconnected the bar links to give you some more wiggle room with the bar.

No subframe drop, yes just standard tools.... Yes the bar was disconnected. I had to disconnect a couple harnesses that were in the way, to give myself some extra room, make sure when you reconnect the harnesses you get them pushed back together, they are very tight fittings. I believe I ended up using a pair of long needle nose pliers to clamp one of the harnesses back together. Very limited space, takes time going 1/4 turn with wrenches. Only special tool you may need is a magnet just in case you drop a bolt that you can’t reach and need to get it. The crows foot wrench’s where used to remove the back nut on the upper A arm’s...

So I gave it a shot today... gave up 30 minutes in.

I disconnected the e-brake cable, brake line bracket, and sway bar link just to get stuff out of the way. Got a ratchet wrench on the bolt (barely) and started to unbolt. A few turns in I realized there's no way I will be able to get it out. There's just not enough clearance to actually remove it. Definitely not enough to put it back in. I don't want to say it's impossible but I didn't want to risk not being able to put the new ones back in.

May give it another shot next weekend. For now, more WD-40.

Your car is no different than mine when it comes to this job, so I assure you it can be done... What are you having issues with? Tools not fitting? I believe I used a long ratcheting wrench to get bolts out... As I stated in my other thread it was tight and it took me some time to get the bolts restarted when reassembling but I eventually got it done.... It is a PITA for sure, but not impossible...

Do you have the stand alone e-brake? I tried it again and realized the e-brake cable is in the way and can't really be moved. It sits right on top of the dam bushings.

I managed to get the left 1 out then realized the dealer sold me the wrong size bushings. Yes... 3 hours to remove the thing and come to find out i can't even replace it. Worse was when I realized I couldn't even get the old one back in. Had to trim it to slide it back along the bar.

Tried the right 1 too, but couldn't get the bolt fully released. Since there was no way I was getting a new one back in, I just bolted it back and called it a day.

Maybe I can just drop the subframe a few inches and that may help. But i've never done that before so who knows =/.

I have the alcon brake package and the replacement part shows up as 17mm while the part I have in there now is 22mm.

Does anyone know the PN for the 22mm bushing? Is that the same size for the R-S? I don't know why mine is different.

So it turns out the noise is not coming from the bushings. It is coming from the rear toe link on the right side. Was able to isolate the noise by disconnecting the sway bar links, spraying each joint with WD-40, and lifting one side at a time, listening for the noise. It was a process of elimination basically.

With the amount of lube i sprayed inside the bushings, I don't think I will have to worry about them for a while.

What brand was the the sway bar link so we can avoid it in the future. I read on your other thread it was relatively new and already rusty.

Bought the [2] toe links and [2] sway bar links as a set from eBay - 'deutsche parts'

They claim 'oem surface finish', right......

Ill throw the pic here also so people know what i'm talking about. Also funny how they forgot to pack one of the lock nuts for the toe link. Had to run out to home depot that night to get one.

I left them bad feedback and they offered to give me back %50 of the purchase price. I declined and told them they need to be held accountable for their product.

EDIT: these were installed in March, 2019.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...99f4b517c6.jpg

Thank you. They get good reviews on eBay but have an "F" rating @ BBB last I checked.

Mmmm goodstuff ... I should check the BBB more often for these types of things.