There is little reason not to use it in the winter but it will deteriorate faster than a car that sees no salt. Remember, it is not just body panels but all the stuff underneath which may well be unpainted aluminium, steel or cast iron. These will definitely corrode faster. If there is no salt used, then winters are fine. Chemical reaction rates double with 10 deg C rise in temp so cold is a bit better if wet and salty. If you can hose down the car more regularly, especially after use in salted conditions it will be a big advantage.

 

While I don't drive my summer toys here in Canada, as winter is too harsh and too snowy, for my winter cars I treat them with an oil spray. It is annoying to deal with, as cars get oily and grimy, but they DO NOT RUST. Before I started using it, I lost a number of cars to extreme rust. Now, not so much.

 

One thing that helps stop rust is oil leaks <---(Proper grammar, singular object). Seriously. The more, the better. A nice, thick coating of oil and road grime will keep ANYTHING from attacking metal of any sort.

 

I recall an old mechanic telling me when I had my 66 E-type that they never leaked . It was called "controlled seepage".

 

My own experiences were many years Minnesota, where they love to salt roads. Years ago a car in Minnesota would "rust-through" in less than five years. Contemporary cars are now "dipped" in an anti-rust bath at factories, so rust is much less of a problem. Nevertheless, rust never sleeps; and one must stay on top of it, especially in salt-road countries. You can easily survive salt on roads by taking some precautions. First, salt is used on new snow - it melts some of the ice making the road slushy. Best to avoid driving in this slush, if you can. Icy salt water is very corrosive. But, in time with a little sun, the road dries out. Once it is in a dry condition salt corrosion is minimal. Best to use often use a commercial car wash that offers underside cleaning. I think with constant cleaning corrosion from road salt will be minimal. Do inspect the underside every time you change oil. Clean drain holes in doors. You will find surface rust on suspension parts, but not so much on body that was dipped, except in known trouble spots. Address any spots of corrosion with "instant cold galvanizing" and rust-resistant paint.
As for lubricating door mechanisms, they may "stick" ,even using proper-recommended lubricants, in very cold weather. This points towards using a thinner lubricant or even no lubricant.