Should I change the fourth spring isolator?
 

Would apprecaite some advice.

Had a 'squeaking' noise coming from the front and took the car to the local dealer to fix. They suggested to replace the 4 spring isolators on each shock absorbers. They managed to replace 3 of them (two rear and one front) however they could not get to the remaining one because a front lower arm bush bolt was jammed and could not be easily removed. They are suggesting that the bolt is sawn off (obviously requiring a replacement bush) so that they can get to the isolator.

Now, my 'trilemma' is this:

a) should I go ahead with the replacement of the bush on one side only;

b) change both bushes [I suppose wear and tear issues would make this a 'wise' option] or

c) live with it as it is, with an 'old' and a 'new' front isolator [noise seem to have gone away]?

Cost to change one (let alone two) bushes is not trivial, hence my question!

Cheers!

I would finish the job and replace the last remaining one.

You failed to mention the age and the accumulated mileage on the car. If the car has near 100K, replacing all bushings would be a good idea. If the car has only 30K then I would consider not replacing all bushings, thinking that only one was binding and the rest could be good.

You could always lift the car and take a look at the bushing. If it is cracked, deformed or otherwise aged, replace it. Make sure that there is no "free play" or wiggle in the mounted damper. If it checks out, you could continue driving on it with periodic checks for the above.

Albert

Thanks Moses, thanks Albert.

Mileage is 25,000 miles and it's exactly 4 years old. Will have a look at the bush and see condition, but I suspect that it's ok as otherwise the service guys would have told me so.

Is it 'normal' to have these bolts jammed up?

Cheers!

Andrew

Andrew

The bushings should be OK on the car with that kind of low mileage. It is not normal to have any bolts jammed up. Unfortunately, what likely happened with your car was that the assembly mechanic used a machine tool to engage the bolt and cross threaded it. I had two of those recently on my motor home wheels. I ended up cutting them off just to remove the wheel. Bolts should always be started by hand before using a power tool on them. But, that would take time and time is money...

I suspect that given the size of that bolt, likely it will eventually have to be cut off. But, the good news is, not for an other 100,000 miles.

Albert

Thanks Albert. I will be having a look at it properly on a car jack next Tuesday to see the condition of the bolt. It's the bolt which holds the lower part of the shock absorber in place. Will report back after that.

Andrew

Had a look at the bolt and it seems 'ok' [i.e. not too rusty] apart from being stuck within the lower suspension arm bush; incidentally, it's the bolt which attaches the shock to the arm. I've decided to purchase the fourth spring isolator but not to change it for now. It does not seem to be such a serious issue at this point, so I'll just park this issue for now, thanks guys.

On the other hand, while underneath the car, I did notice a minor oil leak which I will describe in a separate thread for comments.

Andrew

When I had a bolt bind up like that it was because moisture had caused corrosion that "welded" the smooth shank of the bolt to the inside of the metal bush that sat in a rubber bushing. Eventually things began to rotate... because the metal bushing became detached from the rubber outer. A shop had to drill out the bolt before I could release the shock.

This was a common issue with British cars back then and could be fixed by applying a smear of grease to the smooth bolt shank when you installed it. This was never going to happen on a production line, naturally.