|
Tips on removing standard rear spoiler
Anyone have any tips on removing the rear trunk/boot spoiler on my 2008 xkr please?
Managed to buy the bigger one from the speed pack. I've removed the inside trim ans see the two bolts but looks like loads of plastic clips. I aim to use a hair dryer to loosen the 3m tape but wondering if the clips just pull through? How hard to pull? Any tips appreciated and advice with fitting new one once it's painted. |
1 Attachment(s)
Try this.
|
Originally Posted by Sean W
(Post 1853925)
Try this.
|
The spoiler actually has 3 screws and two nuts to be removed plus 2 clips on each end. You also must remove the brake light to unplug it and you must unplug the radio antenna located inside the spoiler.
For the rockers there are a number of screw clip fasteners on the underside and screws behind the sill plates. |
2 Attachment(s)
Here you go:
|
Thanks guys! Ah another three screws behind the brake light then in addition to the two bolts. I guess a level of pulling to release the clips at each end. Always the worrying bit and nothing much to get hold of! Would a tap from the inside help? They certainly know how to fix things on!!!
|
Just fyi, the two screws that held my 3rd brake light on were tamper proof hex key screws.... Not sure if yours will be or not...
example below: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e4e562099a.jpg |
Originally Posted by TexasTraveler
(Post 1853998)
Just fyi, the two screws that held my 3rd brake light on were tamper proof hex key screws.... Not sure if yours will be or not...
example below: |
Originally Posted by Sean W
(Post 1854055)
Odd that they even make those since you can buy the damn wrenches right next to the screws. Should call them something different than tamper proof. Maybe "unnecessarily inconvenient screws".
|
Note when removing the sill plates that you must remove the glued on aluminum trim to get to the bolts. Use a heat gun to soften the glue and try to get the aluminum trim off without bending it.
|
Originally Posted by Sean W
(Post 1854055)
Odd that they even make those since you can buy the damn wrenches right next to the screws. Should call them something different than tamper proof. Maybe "unnecessarily inconvenient screws".
|
Originally Posted by Swisstone
(Post 1853916)
... I aim to use a hair dryer to loosen the 3m tape but wondering if the clips just pull through? How hard to pull?
IMHO, the sealing between the boot/trunk lid and the spoiler is poor. My stop light doesn't fit the spoiler well and there is no seal between them. The GPS antenna on my 2007 convertible - located under the spoiler - just rusted away. |
I guess if the tape isn't stuck down then it's just the plastic clips at each end that I might have trouble lifting then. On re fit, if not intending to remove again then a small bead of silicone might seal better and same with stop lamp if water gets through there? I'm just in the process of getting a good fit on the 3 piece lower diffuser kit before getting the bits painted. |
Originally Posted by Swisstone
(Post 1858018)
I guess if the tape isn't stuck down then it's just the plastic clips at each end that I might have trouble lifting then. On re fit, if not intending to remove again then a small bead of silicone might seal better and same with stop lamp if water gets through there? I'm just in the process of getting a good fit on the 3 piece lower diffuser kit before getting the bits painted. |
I didn't realise the diffuser needs 3m tape as well. I've already fitted that and bolted on nicely. 4 bolts at the bottom and one each side at the top over the exhaust. I guess you mean put the tape along near the fingers that slot into the bumper. I did think that seemed odd so I put a little bonding on each finger so to keep firm. Should do the same job? The side spats are a different story! They are fibreglass and had to do lots of filing/sanding to get a good fit. I've been told to use windscreen adhesive (master seal) to bond them on but they need some pressure to push tight against the bumper while the adhesive cures. I don't think I can get g clamps big enough so can only think to drill and screw then fill holes and paint on the car? Other option is to rivet on and fill heads? Would have rather painted off the car first but as said, need big g clamps! |
Originally Posted by Swisstone
(Post 1858081)
I didn't realise the diffuser needs 3m tape as well. I've already fitted that and bolted on nicely. 4 bolts at the bottom and one each side at the top over the exhaust. I guess you mean put the tape along near the fingers that slot into the bumper. I did think that seemed odd so I put a little bonding on each finger so to keep firm. Should do the same job? The side spats are a different story! They are fibreglass and had to do lots of filing/sanding to get a good fit. I've been told to use windscreen adhesive (master seal) to bond them on but they need some pressure to push tight against the bumper while the adhesive cures. I don't think I can get g clamps big enough so can only think to drill and screw then fill holes and paint on the car? Other option is to rivet on and fill heads? Would have rather painted off the car first but as said, need big g clamps! Here's a pic I found online. The tape goes end to end on the inside edge that mates to the bumper (bottom of pic). Did you get replica spats? You should be able to rivet on the inside/underside and use Sikaflex adhesive. Alternatively 3M makes a permanent VHB bonding tape https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/bvYAA...jK/s-l1600.jpg |
I see where you mean, will see how it goes then and if any rattles! yes I had to get the replica spats. Rs spoiler and diffuser are genuine though. They seem quite good. They are an open moulding so not sure how I could rivet from the inside as it has to drill through the single skin? |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:04 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands
