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Valve cover gasket replacement - new bolts or seals?
Hi all,
It looks like at least one of my valve cover gaskets (4.2 N/A) needs changing as there is an oil leak that seems to be landing on the alternator. No known problems with the latter but clearly needs looking at sooner rather than later.
In the reading I've done there seem to be mixed views on replacing the 14 bolts (of differing types) with new. The workshop manual says to replace the "retaining bolt O-ring seals" but I can't find a part number for the seals - only the full bolt, and 14 of them add up. The tightening torque is low (12 Nm) but someone suggested using a lower torque if reusing the existing bolts.
In short:
Has anyone reused their old bolts and seals? If so, what torque did you tighten to? Have you had any issues with leaks?
Does anyone know the part number for the seal(s) (which in pictures online look more like grommets to me - quite thick)?
Having had a look at what's required for this job I'm not sure doing it myself is a good idea. One bolt in particular is hard to reach, with less than an inch between it and the suspension turret. Given the angle, I'm guessing it would need a universal joint or flexible extension which would affect the accuracy of the torque wrench and I understand getting the torque right is key.
If anyone has done it themselves, thoughts welcome! Thank you.
The part in question is engine valve cover mounting spacer/bush. The JLR part number is AJ810631.
To access the cam cover rear bolts on Bank 2 on the X150 may require repositioning the wiring harness that runs to the bulkhead. Use a 1/4-inch drive universal 10mm socket and long extension to access all the cam cover bolts.
The bolts can be reused if they're undamaged, and not corroded. Use RTV sealant on the two areas on each cylinder head where the timing cover meets with the cylinder head. DO NOT use any sealer on the rest of the area along the cam cover seal and cylinder head.
I had a leak on the other side because, as I found out when replacing the valve cover gasket, one of the cover bolts was just hanging loose. Yeah, a couple of those bolts are hard to get to, and probably why I had a leak in the first place.
Documented my experience here.
@kj07xk I'd seen your thread - thank you for documenting. The information re. bolts / parts was very helpful (and in fact is partly why I asked about reusing them when I worked out the total cost of replacing the whole bolt!).
@kj07xk I'd seen your thread - thank you for documenting. The information re. bolts / parts was very helpful (and in fact is partly why I asked about reusing them when I worked out the total cost of replacing the whole bolt!).
The valve covers bolts are not required to be torqued perfectly and can be wrench tight as they will bottom out
and additional torque will not put additional pressure on the gasket, its designed this way.
Definitely replace the bolt seals! you can re-use the bolts but putting new seals on the old bolts takes additional time.
Removing the wiring harness and fuel rails (5.0) is pretty tricky and you have to be careful.
Hmmm, I’d like to say yes, but not sure. I’ll check to see if I kept the old ones.
Thank you! Much appreciated. One of them seems to have gone out of stock so I wondered whether it was possible to swap the new rubber onto the old bolts.
Hmmm, I’d like to say yes, but not sure. I’ll check to see if I kept the old ones.
@urbanology Got a chance to did through the buried basement closet, the last possible place I might have kept them, but no luck. I apparently discarded the old ones, so I can’t say for sure that the grommets are the same size.
@urbanology Got a chance to did through the buried basement closet, the last possible place I might have kept them, but no luck. I apparently discarded the old ones, so I can’t say for sure that the grommets are the same size.
Thanks very much indeed for checking @kj07xk - I appreciate it! This project has gone on the back burner somewhat so they might well come back into stock in the meantime.