Is it a straight swap? I have a 2007 model XK-R and although I am happy enough with the look of the front end, could at some stage be persuaded to swap out for a 2010-style bumper. I assume though that the light units have to be swapped as well, and this is rather costly I suspect?

 

While messing with my CCF while in SDD, I decided to reflash my TPMS Receiver since I've replaced everything else associated with TPMS and it STILL fails...... and the reflash FAILED. Four times. Evidently the receiver is not good, so I just bought a new OEM off eBay for $120. If the new one doesn't fix the problem, it will be about time to disable it altogether, since every part is new and the wires all chased good.
Gotta get everything ready for when it finally gets above 60 Fahrenheit.
Also preparing for the Silver State Classic! I'll no longer be in the Camry bracket at 150mph! Watch out, you Lambos and Ferraris!

 

The 2010-11 has the same light units but you'll need a new undertray. The bumper side mounts are different and on mine they were missing but I think I can get it to work with the one's from my old bumper. If you buy one try and find one with the side mounts cause you can't buy them new seperatly. Also the inner fenders are differently shaped but will get some second hand from a scrapyard and fix it.

 

Finally got a break in the weather to go out for a little shake down drive to try out the Brembo ceramic pads. I guess I'm still working out some air in the system as the brakes are still a little squishy on first push but on second push they are right there at the top of the pedal. I did replace that whole left rear caliper so chances are there is a bubble hiding in there somewhere.

First off, almost zero noise. A little whisper but I would guess that has more to do with the new drilled and slotted rotors. So A+ in that category.

From a performance perspective; very much like the OEM metallic. Smooth initial grab and excellent linear braking force with increased pressure. Being mine is an XK rather than a performance variant (R, RS, etc) I would rate it just right. So another A+ .

I was a bit surprised as there was just as much dust on the wheels after this drive as on previous drives with the OEM pads. I'm not ready for a final grade on this aspect; seating new pads on new rotors may be altering the outcome. Getting on the brakes more assertively than normal, plus there is the opinion that brake dust actually originates from the rotor rather than the pad, I think I'm going to have to watch that one a bit and give it all time to settle in before I make a decision on the "dust."

I also replaced all the shocks and put XKR shocks on the front since standard XK didn't seem readily available. The ride is a bit more firm, as expected; nothing untoward.

So, back to the lift to squeeze out that illusive bubble or two in the brake system and she should be right as rain.

 

New tires, alignment and new battery. Ready to roll...

 

Both pads and rotors wear from use, and pads usually wear more and faster than rotors. OEM Jaguar pads are black and when they wear they produce black dust that is very noticeable on silver wheels. My guess is that any wear particles from the rotors are not discernible as they get commingled with the brake dust. Ceramic pads also produce dust as they wear but it's not as noticeable if the ceramic pad material is a light color, and not black.

Another factor is the hardness of the pads. Pad compounds vary from soft to hard for various applications. A soft pad compound will wear faster than a harder compound and will cause less wear on the rotor, and vice-versa. No pad is perfect for all applications; they're all compromises. That's why it's hard to do apples-to-apples comparisons.

 

Cee Jay disabling the tpms was exactly the first modification I did and have never been more happier the stress of seeing that light on my dash use to drive me insane.

 

Hi guys i'm interesting to disablade TPMS. Have you information about it ? I've SDD .
Thank's and good day.

 

Not sure if you replaced the rotors at the same time as the pads. If not, then the rotor surfaces will have 'worn' to the old pads and their small grooves etc won't initially conform to the new pads. This usually causes a different 'feel' with the brake pedal when fitting new pads to existing rotors. After 100 miles or so, this slightly unusual feel disappears as the new pads and rotors bed in. Of course, it may be that you do have a little air still trapped in the system, so a re-bleed can do no harm. But if, afterwards, the pedal still feels a bit strange, wait for 100 miles or so before investigating further. My bet would be that by that time, the pedal will be back to normal.

 

Had the rear quarter windows tinted to match the rear. Booked the car in for the wheels to be chrome powdercoated. They wont look chrome - more a polished metal finish.

 

I did pads, rotors, and shocks all at the same time. I figured, well... it’s up there ... and apart.... 🙂

The new rotors actually came new with a fine machined, cross hatched texture. I assume this is part of the process to help seat them in. I also assume this was a lot of what the initial dust was from and will continue until the rotor is fully “shiny.”

And... these ceramic hybrid pads are a fairly dark material.

 

Thank you for the input. All good ideas to keep in mind.

This was the project; well, everything but the two bags of concrete mix on the floor I just didn’t feel like moving. I have a whole set of hubs there, just in case, but they all checked out good. Bushings were all good too.

 

What model Quickjack is that?

 

It’s the 7000EXT. The 66 inch spread matches the jackpoints on the XK frame nicely. The 7000 makes it big enough to use on my F150 as well. No sense in “saving” $150 on the smaller model when you are spending $1500 on a lift.

There are certainly many options for lifts out there. I went with this type as it stores out of the way nicely and my garage ceiling height doesn’t really allow for a lift that raises the car too far anyway. The lift has worked flawlessly so far and I like the idea of lifting the car evenly rather than twisting her frame one corner at a time with a normal jack.

 

Thanks. I made the mistake if buying a 5000SLX awhile ago and found it to be too short for any of my vehicles, so had to get rid of it. I’d consider the 5000EXT if I try again, but found each component to be damn heavy! Not sure my back could put up with moving them around too often.

 

Ha ha! They sure aren't made of some space grade super light alloy. I was out using them today rebleeding those brakes and: confirmed... they are heavy. But then again, it's my bum crawling around under the car and there is something comforting about knowing the lift holding that car over you is in fact "heavy" duty. They are also nice and stable compared to many alternatives.

 

bought another new front tyre, had the drivers side renewed after the blow out a month ago. so it will come from germany next week all need to do is get 2 new backs in spring will start the season with all 4 new rubber

 

Had 2 new back tyres fitted today thats all 4 corners on new rubber roll on spring time

 

I had two rear tires fitted yesterday, as well. Ran over a nail in each, one of which penetrated near the sidewall so it couldn't be repaired. The other tire showed too much wear on inside tread, and I wanted a matched pair.

 

Sorry to hear that tberg
I had similar in my Merc a couple of years ago - adds up quick with nice quality tyres.

Hope you enjoy the new treads though!