Dude this is like placing an ad in the newspaper to get a date. There are much better cheaper ways, unless you are targeting the hobos.
Your phone has all that, and its far more accurate and its free, Keep in mind, when you talk on the phone, you can basically talk right on top of the other person, this means there is zero latency. Look at it another way, with a $200 drone and your cell you can take aerial pictures. Think about what that would cost in the old fashioned way.

 

I would imagine that they dont even have an audio department.
Which is the heart of the problem.
Its all been outsourced and designed by quarreling committees, like a wildebeest.

 

I'm thinking along the lines of a more professional system, although I did let the $320 add mislead me into more software than I needed.
I would have a few requirements.
(Where I missed was buying the TrueRTA full suite which includes O-Scope and Signal Generator. Both of which I already have.)

1.) A calibrated microphone similar to the Dayton Umm-6.
2.) Software with accuracy such as TrueRTA. Level 4, for 1/24 Octave precision. THD measurements would be a nice.
3.) The DATS V2 would let me run direct driver analysis.
4.) Pink Noise CD. Any other interface (an iphone for example) would require calibration of its own.

Signal to noise Seems to be a weak spot for laptops, requiring an external sound card.

I've not dug into my brain or the internet enough to really figure out what I would be willing to buy, but NIST level of accuracy would be a must.

 

We have all of that equipment and more, and gods of DSP.
It will only tell you the same thing it told the guys who originally took the measurements, with array of microphones no less.

 

And I'm still waiting for actual charted data? What's the hold up?

Sorry Q&C, that was unintentionally rude.

I've had 8+ years sitting on a test bench with precision equipment at my disposal. Dialing down to laptop add on's is possible, but my interest would be long term as well. If I cant do the job right, I most likly would not do it at all.

 

That's the secret I am sharing.
The most important parameters of audio cannot be measured by a microphone. There are greater inconsistencies in measurement than the anomalies present in sound.
Nor can you boost a null if you could measure. How will you amplify zero.

Thats why improving the other end will yield significantly better results. The content.

 

In a way the experiment can be done easily by all.
Try any equalization setting you like, or even the various preset DSP modes such as DolbyPII, you cannot get good sound out of this system through equaliztion and measurement, that's what the original engineers did.

Now try a very good recording on the best source- WAV if you can coax it, or CD, it is the only thing that will make it sound slightly better.

 

Cambo, if you're swapping out from Base to Alpine, is the part number of the AM/FM CD player (IAM) needed 6g9n-18c815-TA?

I have the amp and the pretend sub woofer that sits in the floor pan. I know I need a center speaker, MOST fiber optic cables, etc but I need to get the CD player part number right. I'll be changing the speakers too but not anything nearly as high end as you guys are working on.

 

A new finding that confirms where the problem lies.

The only DSP mode that sounds good is Dolby PII.
This absolutely should not be the case. 3CH Stereo should sound better, in terms of the midrange. Stereo should sound even better. The inverse is true, it improves to being acceptable as you apply DSP algorithms NOT created by either Harman, B&W or Phillips.

Please try it.

 

Yup, this is the setting I use after experimentation across multiple sources.

As for the source quality, it really varies with what the music you are listening to was mixed for. Lots of music I can load a MP3 vs .WAV back to back with no difference in experience, some music it is quite noticeable.

 

My Dad often said "Son, there are no stupid questions, just stupid people asking questions."
So given that I am what my father says I am, I'll ask a couple here.

Cambo, you pointed out (obvious to all of us) that the front speakers are aimed at our feet or knees, or something to that effect.

Stupid person question 1 - there appears to be enough space in the door. Is it possible, plausible, reasonable or most importantly, effective, to angle the speakers upward slightly? I realize this would require modification and in order to keep up an OEM appearance, angel the top of the speaker into the door rather than protrude the lower end out from it. Let's assume for this question, you found the speaker of your dreams and all other things are equal (yes I understand they aren't, but remember, "just stupid people asking questions")

Stupid person question 2 - what's the difference between the sub woofer in the foot well and the door speakers? Yep, I'm just that dumb and I truly don't know.

 

I'm truly glad this thread is trying to tweak the stock system to sound better. This whole thing boils down to money. The OEM's are only going to spend so much. With integrated system they have us by the short hairs. I'm wondering when someone is going to suggest a turntable, for crying out loud. A high end car system sounds best in the driveway with the car off. The noise floor when driving and dynamic sounds outside the cabin pretty much ruin the entire 'audiophile' sound experience. I use my car for transportation. Compressed audio is here. Get over it and make the best of it. What's needed is a better Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) but that costs money. Sound is a lot like wine. If you like a $5 Merlot then great! You don't need to spend $1500 on a bottle of Bordeaux to be happy. Change the speakers. If you like the sound better then you've won! I'm perfectly happy with the stock Alpine system. Would I like more? Sure! Keep up the good work but be realistic .

Now before the "experts" start blasting away be advised my home system is built with monoblock amps, external/tube output DAC's for mp3's and a tube preamp for my 1979 Radio Shack LAB-440 turntable with a Shure VR15 cartridge. I've owned reel to reel. I had a Denon tape deck using TDK MA-R cassettes. I bought my first CD player in 1984. I even used HiFi VCR's to make three hour mixed music "tapes". I've heard a thing or two but I'll never claim to be an expert.

My point is that quality speakers and amplification NEVER go out of style while sources always change. Do the best with what you've got. If bolting in some better speakers work then BRAVO!!!

Cambo, great work. Trial and error FTW! Find what you like and enjoy!

 

it does not have to cost any money at all- I will show you guys how to get one of the best for free. That is what I am working on.
Yes that is one of the only problems- but not so easy to overcome.

Its to do with when this audio system was designed- mp3 and ipods were all the rage, neither are considered acceptable even for low fidelity today. Also cabin-correction (room correction) was in its infancy, which utilizes the same crap DAC.

 

Prior to MP3, it was radio that was all the rage.

 

lol,
Yer missin about three major mobile audio leaps and three decades between the two (and all better than mp3)!
and we wont mention this (4th) one!

 

Radio is still phenomenal- its the only source in the XK where information is not lost or discarded, i.e. compressed.

Unfortunately, there is nothing anymore of value on American radio. UK its another matter.

 

"Hannity"???
HAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ohhhhh, shoot me now.

In the face.
With #6 birdshot.
Several times.

Now I'm even sad I said that in jest.

 

The only male not to have been let go at Fox for falling for the mini skirts.
The man must have testicular fortitude or know some other secret to getting relief. Time will tell.
But why the hell do you want High Quality audio for talk radio?

 

But it's heavily processed before transmission (compression/limiting). Higher rate mp3s sound better.

You got that right. Sometimes the local station will play some worthwhile stuff but it's hit or miss at best.

 

My questions may have been lost in the shuffle of subsequent posts so I'm re-asking. I don't speak the audiophile vernacular and clearly my questions are remedial.

I understand the focus of this thread by Cambo and some of the solutions, which I expect will end up around $3k (Vegas may be taking odds. I'm not certain on the over/under). I'm too hearing impaired to focus on anything but the basics. So questions restated below and replies are very much appreciated.

1) There appears to be enough space in the door. Is it possible, plausible, reasonable or most importantly, effective, to angle the speakers upward slightly? I realize this would require modification and in order to keep up an OEM appearance, angle the top of the speaker into the door rather than protrude the lower end out from it. Let's assume for this question, you found the speaker of your dreams and all other things are equal (yes I understand they aren't).

What's the difference between the sub woofer in the foot well and the door speakers? Yep, I'm just that dumb and I truly don't know. both are bass speakers 6 1/2".

Thanks guys.