Tip; get familiar with the digital dipstick- it is actually a good thing.

If you change your oil before you do.
Start by only putting back what you took out.
Then add more if the dipstick tells you so.
This way you will be safe.

Tip 2 : run lots of injector cleaner before doing the oil change.
2 bottles of this before an oil change-( as the oil gets dirty and diluted)

 

Genuine question - does stuff like that actually work? I'd always assumed things like that were snake oil but given your input on my own thread regarding slight misfires I'm wondering if a couple of bottles of that stuff and then a proper oil change might be a better start.

 

If you are running a quality fuel then the detergents in it would keep the injectors clean. A few of these products work well but are maybe a more concentrated detergent. If it gives you piece of mind it's only a few dollars to do it. The more import additive will get the water out of the fuel tank and burn it off.

 

+1 on the above.

I use a suction device to get the old oil out from the pipe by the filler cap on my Range Rover 5.0.

It is extremely easy as is changing the filter on the top of the engine.

As Queen and Country states only put back what you took out and then check normally with the electronic indicator for any need to add more.

So much easier than doing this on my 2005 XJR!!!!

 

 

I insert a plastic tube all the way down the metal tube until it stops.

The pump/suction device I bought holds 9 Litres, has markings on the side, and it came with about 5 different diameter plastic tubes.

9L Oil Fluid Extractor Pump Manual Suction Vacuum Fuel Car Boat Transfer Tank BP

If you look up the above on Ebay that is what I purchased.

 

 

If we first examine why it does not work- we can make it work for us.
Indeed there is a huge demand for miracle panacea potions. Most want to treat car maintenance as pouring a bottle of something in the tank that will cure all and has to do multiple things. Doing one thing is not good enough. So smart capitalists seize on the delusion. Reviewers and ****-artists also get in on the action by testing all the claims and proclaiming it barely shifted some carbon from the valves and piston heads..

There is another challenge besides economics. The active ingredient in this and some others, does not burn in the combustion cycle- so if they sold you the quantity you needed to do a good job, you would end up with a quart of additional oil in the pan, And to make matters worse it would all be the wrong viscosity. Which is also the reason there can never be any meaningful quantity in gasoline to even undo the deposits it left from last week. And eventually folks have a problem. If it cleaned 90% of its own mess, you are still accumulating.

Indeed if you are looking to undo the effects of 40,000 miles in 2000, its not going to happen with any chemical, even those administered professionally. Especially if you have derived at this as a result of a noticeable problem.

If you are looking to get on a regiment that prevents compounding in regards to 2 specific areas, keeping the injectors relatively clean and keeping the oil passages in some crucial components such the cam phaser clean, then this is the thing.

One would be hard pressed to find this on the miracle potion shelf. It is from a chemical company that does what it claims.

Your specific unasked question. If I use 2 bottles of this will I be throwing money away if I have to do an even more aggressive form of this. No because even the most aggressive form available is not enough if the situation is that bad. And you are always helping remove some carbon from the pistons even if your injectors are sparkly clean.

I start on this flush 3 months before the oil change is due, so as to give it a chance to work the entire oil system.

One more tip; the oil flush additives make siphoning easier.

 

 

The drain plug is on the side of the sump pan, isn't it? That could get messy...

 

 

The biggest PITA is the removal and reinstall of the plastic belly tray. Much easier just using an extractor to suck the oil out. But if you want to make it a little easier get a Fumoto drain valve. https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/

 

The small tube under the oil fill cap is the siphon tube that terminates at the lowest point in the pan sump. I bought a manual extraction pump at discount tool store that has various hoses & fittings that simply fits onto siphon tube. Run the engine for about 10 minutes to warm the oil then you are ready to do the deed. It is really quite simple and the cleanest oil change method I've experienced.

Changing the filter is even easier and I use my digital torque wrench to make sure the housing is secured to spec when complete. That is so much more logical than spinning an oil filter canister on then relying on some addtional rotation to ensure the seal is seated properly.

As stated above, watch what you extract then replace that amount while watching the electronic dip stick indicator. After a couple changes you'll be a pro at it.

 

 

Perhaps the only joke on this car and in the owners manual.
For half the owners they have claimed inhaling pollen is as good as mountain air, and even given them a retractable roof to get copious amounts of unfiltered air.
The other half they have warned to not breathe unfiltered air and the filter must be replaced at half its useful life.

Its under the hood right next to the coolant tank. Extremely easy to do.

 

Regards the oil filter housing, is there a special tool or similar required to release and reinstall this, or do most folks just use a strap wrench or similar?

 

The filter cap must be delicately torqued to the specified amount in the handbook.
For this reason a rudimentary strap wrench will not work.

 

 

Ive had no issues with a strap wrench. Very easy to feel the seal compressing, but i've been wrenching on my cars for over 40 years.