XK Suspension
#1
XK Suspension
I have my 2007 XK (with 81K miles on the odometer) on jackstands because the 19" Carelia wheels are being refinished. While waiting for the return of the wheels/tires, I thought I would take a few photos of the suspension.
I've owned the car for a year and have replaced the front steering tierods, the rear toe-in rods and the rear sway bar links because of cracked rubber seals at the balljoints.
I noticed that the rear suspension, lower suspension arms are starting to show cracking in the rubber bushings closest to the rear of the car, but no lubricant is coming out. Any opinions on if/when I should replace them, and how hard is this job?
I also noticed on the front suspension, very large yellow plastic bushings on the lower control arm. Are those bushings aftermarket? The photos are of the right front suspension.
I've owned the car for a year and have replaced the front steering tierods, the rear toe-in rods and the rear sway bar links because of cracked rubber seals at the balljoints.
I noticed that the rear suspension, lower suspension arms are starting to show cracking in the rubber bushings closest to the rear of the car, but no lubricant is coming out. Any opinions on if/when I should replace them, and how hard is this job?
I also noticed on the front suspension, very large yellow plastic bushings on the lower control arm. Are those bushings aftermarket? The photos are of the right front suspension.
Last edited by Patrick Wong; 04-08-2018 at 12:44 PM.
#2
The yellow bushing is aftermarket, probably Polyurethane, so it should last forever.
I would go go ahead and replace the control arm bushings while you have it up there. If you replace the bushings you can get poly ones that will kart forever, but that is a lot more work than just buying a new control with fresh bushings and swapping it out.
I would go go ahead and replace the control arm bushings while you have it up there. If you replace the bushings you can get poly ones that will kart forever, but that is a lot more work than just buying a new control with fresh bushings and swapping it out.
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Patrick Wong (04-08-2018)
#3
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Patrick Wong (04-08-2018)
#4
Yellow is aftermarket.
These guys are pretty good and stock a few different brands .
With the xk/r what I'm finding is the suspension components start to fail after a certain amount of time rather than the mileage .
In terms of changing the components it all depends on how handy you are with a wrench
13,15 & 18mm plus t60 are the main tools required
These guys are pretty good and stock a few different brands .
With the xk/r what I'm finding is the suspension components start to fail after a certain amount of time rather than the mileage .
In terms of changing the components it all depends on how handy you are with a wrench
13,15 & 18mm plus t60 are the main tools required
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#6
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Patrick Wong (04-08-2018)
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#8
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Patrick Wong (04-08-2018)
#9
Rockauto have mevotech rear lower control arms for $139 each
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Patrick Wong (04-09-2018)
#10
This is usually not a difficult job. You do need a press as it can't be done with C clamps. It takes most of the time to remove and install the components then it does to press out and press in new bushings. If someone doesn't have a press they can take it to a machine shop and get it done. Simple and inexpensive job for them to do. You may find it is less expensive to just buy the replacement components after you consider costs.
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Patrick Wong (04-09-2018)
#11
I am wondering whether the Mevotech arms are made with aluminum or steel?
I may defer this repair for a while, but wanted to formulate a plan of action with the help of the group.
I have noticed that, when going over a bump, the rear of the car tends to wiggle just a little. I just installed Michelin Pilot Sport tires and the wiggle persists...I am wondering if this is evidence that the control arms are getting loose.
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Patrick Wong (04-10-2018)
#13
Upper control arms can be bought online as Ford/Motorcraft parts, but will come stamped "Jaguar" and "Made in England"
Hear are the part number equivalents, thanks again Jahummer for your posting a while back:
FRONT
MotorCraft MCSOE38 = 6W4Z3084AA
MotorCraft MCSOE39 = 6W4Z3085AA
REAR
6W4Z5500AB
6W4Z5500AA
Hear are the part number equivalents, thanks again Jahummer for your posting a while back:
FRONT
MotorCraft MCSOE38 = 6W4Z3084AA
MotorCraft MCSOE39 = 6W4Z3085AA
REAR
6W4Z5500AB
6W4Z5500AA
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Patrick Wong (04-10-2018)
#14
You can change the upper control arm bushings only, not the ball joint so it it's shot, replace the arm. If the ball joint isn't shot, you can just get the bushings and press them in as others have said.
C clamp or vice will do. Put the new bushings in the freezer over night and then use a heat gun on the arm to expand it after you remove the old bushings. Put a little viener slider (aka vaseline) on the bushings too for an easier fit when pressing them in. Slow and steady to keep the press even.
Avoid hammers as the arms are aluminum. I'd personally avoid poly bushes as they're too loud and harsh for my taste. It doesn't matter that they last forever if your ride is crap.
Lastly, you can buy replacement boots as well so if your ball joints are otherwise ok, just re-cover them.
C clamp or vice will do. Put the new bushings in the freezer over night and then use a heat gun on the arm to expand it after you remove the old bushings. Put a little viener slider (aka vaseline) on the bushings too for an easier fit when pressing them in. Slow and steady to keep the press even.
Avoid hammers as the arms are aluminum. I'd personally avoid poly bushes as they're too loud and harsh for my taste. It doesn't matter that they last forever if your ride is crap.
Lastly, you can buy replacement boots as well so if your ball joints are otherwise ok, just re-cover them.
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Patrick Wong (04-10-2018)
#15
Upper control arms can be bought online as Ford/Motorcraft parts, but will come stamped "Jaguar" and "Made in England"
Hear are the part number equivalents, thanks again Jahummer for your posting a while back:
FRONT
MotorCraft MCSOE38 = 6W4Z3084AA
MotorCraft MCSOE39 = 6W4Z3085AA
Hear are the part number equivalents, thanks again Jahummer for your posting a while back:
FRONT
MotorCraft MCSOE38 = 6W4Z3084AA
MotorCraft MCSOE39 = 6W4Z3085AA
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraf...-Susp/48279085 $127.68
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraf...-Susp/48279090 $149.27 (price was closer to the other one when I purchased)
Cheers,
Dave
Last edited by 10XKR; 04-09-2018 at 10:03 PM.
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Patrick Wong (04-10-2018)
#16
#17
Probably an online purchase? Walmart, Target, Costco, Sears and pretty much every major retailer has everything in the world available on the Internet. They don't Stock or Carry these weird parts, but they will act as middleman and get them for you from wherever they can. Sort of like a small version of Amazon.
#18
Probably an online purchase? Walmart, Target, Costco, Sears and pretty much every major retailer has everything in the world available on the Internet. They don't Stock or Carry these weird parts, but they will act as middleman and get them for you from wherever they can. Sort of like a small version of Amazon.
These are plainly stated on the page and on my invoice "Sold & shipped by Walmart" , if I am unsatisfied and want to return them I can go to any Walmart store and get a refund.
Cheers,
Dave
#19
Powerflex USA has an assortment of aftermarket bushings that will fit. I replaced all of mine with poly and the ride is no noticeably harsher, and the only time you hear the noise is when you go over a speed bump or up an agrresive driveway curb.
With regards to the the removal of the old bushings, the walls of the bushing are. Dry thin and tend to crush before they press out. I found the best method was to drill a hole in the bushing and then use a jig saw to carefully cut the metal wall of the bushing without cutting the control arm. Once you cut the wall it releases all the tension and the old bushing will slide out.
With regards to the the removal of the old bushings, the walls of the bushing are. Dry thin and tend to crush before they press out. I found the best method was to drill a hole in the bushing and then use a jig saw to carefully cut the metal wall of the bushing without cutting the control arm. Once you cut the wall it releases all the tension and the old bushing will slide out.
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#20
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