After shocks/springs/upper/lower show bushings/up control arm bushings I still get some light thumping up front over bumps. The car rides MUCH better but I still get a little more then I prefer shake coming back at me when driving. The shop is the second to say my ball joints are good so it can't be an issue. Do I have bad bushings on the front sway bar? I can't imagine end links are the issues. Can I change the end links, seems easy? Would not mess up alignment?

 

Sway bar bushings and end links are not too difficult as a DIY and it won't require an alignment. If the bushings are really bad and the sway bar is moving around, it might explain the problem.

Other thought are that it might be some play in the steering rack? Tie rod ends?

One thing I did notice recently when I changes the wheels: in going from the 18" to the 20" wheels, there was a noticeable reduction in the bounce and wallow. The taller sidewall is good at soaking up road imperfections but also come with a degree of imprecision.

Not to say that either is right or wrong, just that sidewall height makes a difference and it is a matter of preference which way to go.

 

I asked the clowns to check the front end for ALL things that could cause any noise. They said all looked ok. I guess I will check my self.

 

could also be the VEE mounts. These are very close to the rack mounts and when they delaminate, steering movements find it asier to move the cross member than the wheels to steer!

 

Whilst not wanting to worry you, these front subframe V mounts were from my car, with 54k miles on the clock, (there are supposed to be two mounts, not a pile of separate bits) however some say that the corrosion is more to do with time than miles. Although if you look at the 'XK8 Rescue' thread you'll see I've had a fair few other things to cope with!


54k miles V mounts

 

these avail new? install easy?

 

Yes, they are available, there are a couple of good "how to" threads for changing them, which is not easy. The ones on my XK were well past their best and I used the castings and with some moulds, cast 70 shore polyurethane to replace the rubber, including the pocket under the mount. This removed any reliance on bonding. Seems to have held up so far...

If you are going to change them, then you will need to invest in a good quality, long T55 torx bit. Also budget for new screws that hold the mount to the casting as there is a good change you may have to drill out a couple of screws.

 

I'd found a improvement when I replaced the sway bar bushings which where worn on mine, I was surprised but old rubber vs new. They are easy to change (Rev Sam has a vid) but getting the drivers side front bolt started in was a chore, outside of that 15 mins.