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How long ago were you 16 years old when you did this job?
I’m not sure of the question. Are you asking if the camshafts have been accidentally switched ie inlet swapped with exhaust cams? Or are you asking if the timing is off.
For the AJ V8 there’s no TDC marks and you need to lock the flywheel and cams with special tools to keep timing when you disassemble the engine. There’s an engine work book on the Stickies thread describing the process.
The 'A' bank cams go on the right side and the 'B' bank go on the left!!
If you have them swapped, then they are wrong.
If you crank the engine with the cams swapped but timed with the locking tools, you will bend the valves in one of the heads. (I don't remember which one)
How long ago were you 16 years old when you did this job?
I’m not sure of the question. Are you asking if the camshafts have been accidentally switched ie inlet swapped with exhaust cams? Or are you asking if the timing is off.
For the AJ V8 there’s no TDC marks and you need to lock the flywheel and cams with special tools to keep timing when you disassemble the engine. There’s an engine work book on the Stickies thread describing the process.
How long ago was this done?
9 years ago!!!
I did a lot of research on alldatadiy and found the instructions for the bearing caps so I see now that they are not in order.
The 'A' bank cams go on the right side and the 'B' bank go on the left!!
If you have them swapped, then they are wrong.
If you crank the engine with the cams swapped but timed with the locking tools, you will bend the valves in one of the heads. (I don't remember which one)
bob
Thank you that's what I was wondering! Now I just need help determining which is the exhaust camshaft and which is the inlet for each bank so I can line them back up properly. Interestingly enough when you try to start a jag like this fire comes out of the throttle body!!!
So after looking at these pictures can we agree that I am accurate with my depiction of (LH) and (RH) location?
Just want to make sure I get the camshafts in the right location.
I would also inquire as to whether or not the bearing caps are damaged beyond continued use?
Additionally, I'd ask whether or not the camshafts are damaged beyond continued use?
Furthermore, I'd ask whether or not the cylinder head is damaged beyond continued use at the bearing mating surface?
Here is an image of the camshaft bearing caps after removal.(Incorrect camshaft and cap positions). Here is an image of the bearing surface (cylinder head) (RH)after removal of camshafts and bearing caps.(Incorrect camshaft and cap positions). Here is an image of the bearing surface (cylinder head) (RH) after removal of camshafts and bearing caps.(Incorrect camshaft and cap positions). Here is an image of the cylinder head (RH) after removal of camshafts and bearing caps.(Incorrect camshaft and cap positions). Here is an image of the camshaft bearing caps after removal.(Incorrect camshaft and cap positions). Here is an image of the camshafts bearing mating surface after removal.(Incorrect camshaft and cap positions). Here is an image of the cylinder head bearing surface (LH) after removal.(Incorrect camshaft and cap positions). Here is an image of the cylinder head (LH) after removal of camshafts and bearing caps.(Incorrect camshaft and cap positions). Here is an image of the bearing surface (LH) cylinder head after removal of camshafts and bearing caps..(Incorrect camshaft and cap positions). Here is an image of the camshafts after removal.(Incorrect camshaft and cap positions). Here is an image of the camshaft bearing caps after removal. (Incorrect camshaft and cap positions). Here is an image of the camshaft caps and camshafts after removal.(Incorrect camshaft and cap positions).
.....Interestingly enough when you try to start a jag like this fire comes out of the throttle body!!!
I commend your spirit for carrying on with a job you started 9 years ago... good on you!
About 18 years ago I got stuck into my first ever engine rebuild on a 1970s Triumph GT6, and predictably I ended up having to get a new reconditioned “crated” engine. As a bit of a hobby DIY car mechanic, I didn’t mind doing it as a learning exercise, and as the original engine had 200,000 miles on it anyway, it wasn’t a real loss.
i’m a bit concerned about the long term durability of your engine considering you tried running it with wrong cams and bad timing. You could have caused damage to your AJ26 interference engine. Whether you can see it or hear it now is questionable. The cost of new engine parts could easily be just as much as a re-conditioned engine.
Just something to consider. As a GDI engine, it’s close tolerance non adjustable work. IMHO I don’t think home DIY to repair parts is going to be easy. With the out of tolerance, dented and damaged parts, Oil starvation, with the scoring I see in your photos, is a real probability esp at the bearing journals.
If you’re happy to carry on “digging in”, and have time and money, I’m sure us Forum members will support you anyway! I, for one, would like to see more of what you’re up to.
I commend your spirit for carrying on with a job you started 9 years ago... good on you!
About 18 years ago I got stuck into my first ever engine rebuild on a 1970s Triumph GT6, and predictably I ended up having to get a new reconditioned “crated” engine. As a bit of a hobby DIY car mechanic, I didn’t mind doing it as a learning exercise, and as the original engine had 200,000 miles on it anyway, it wasn’t a real loss.
i’m a bit concerned about the long term durability of your engine considering you tried running it with wrong cams and bad timing. You could have caused damage to your AJ26 interference engine. Whether you can see it or hear it now is questionable. The cost of new engine parts could easily be just as much as a re-conditioned engine.
Just something to consider. As a GDI engine, it’s close tolerance non adjustable work. IMHO I don’t think home DIY to repair parts is going to be easy. With the out of tolerance, dented and damaged parts, Oil starvation, with the scoring I see in your photos, is a real probability esp at the bearing journals.
If you’re happy to carry on “digging in”, and have time and money, I’m sure us Forum members will support you anyway! I, for one, would like to see more of what you’re up to.
Ive never heard of the Triumph. She definately has some nice curves. It has 76,000 miles on her! It would be a great loss if i had to let it go. I have considered installing a reconditioned engine. A lot of guys argue that the LS1 conversion is the best option for this for many reasons ;however, many argue that the beauty of the jaguar is having the traditional jaguar engine. I for one would like to analyze the concept of installing a used or new EV (Tesla) electric motor with a compatible battery pack whilst using the fuel cap area as the charging port. I just dont know how i would connect the ECU to the EV.
As seen here:
Unlimited money. I apologize for getting everyone excited about the EV conversion. I would love to tackle this project ;however, after reviewing the current status Rui is at I think I will save my time for more important matters such as educating myself about rocket science and astrophysics in regards to faster than light space travel! Keeping to the cat. I have considered these odds...
100% fake news here
100% of Jaguar owners own a Jaguar.
There are Approximately 8 Billion people living on Earth today.
Out of that 8,000,000,000 only 46,760 jaguar xk8's were produced.
Using this math 0.000006108% of people have had a chance to own a Jaguar XK8 Convertable.
Futhermore assuming only 2 people on Earth have every attempted what I am about to attempt I find myself in the 0.0000001222% Percentile bracket for individuals in the world who have attempted to mend the damage as to which has been established regarding the camshaft caps camshafts and cylinder head camshaft mating surface.
That makes this post rare.
My intentions. I intend on smoothing the damaged areas and rebuilding the engine.
Wish me luck all!
Sincerely,
ME
I have used my Dremel (Trademarked) tools and attachments to smooth the surface's. No sandpaper or sand is involved. I used attachments 512E on non damaged parts ;additionally, attachment 423E with 421 compound to polish these parts. On the more damaged units I used 535-02 brass brush to smooth then followed that with the 511E attachments and finally the 423E and 421 compound. I held the camshaft in my lap and used 2 of the camshaft caps (restored no damage 1st) (restored damaged 2nd) to mate the surfaces and check for sound (scratching) spinning back and forth in a clockwise and counterclockwise direction ensuring no part or the mating surface would get stuck or hung up on any other parts. About to work on the cylinder head camshaft mating surface as we speak.
Good luck, but it’s oil starvation that you need to worry about. Scores in mating bearing surfaces will block lubrication. Any lack of contact area will also lead to higher friction temperatures.
If you’re happy with using a Dremel.... why not. It’s your car.
Also have you looked inside to see if you’ve damaged something else. Plus how to set timing from the zero start point where you are now.
I once rebuilt a leaking Turbo, using a kit, long before but still took it to a specialist shop for checking and testing trueness.
Not sure what the question is????
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