Its a bit late to be pointing this out, but you need to be aware that those gauges don't actually show real data. The engine temp sits in the middle until it overheats, the oil pressure is only an on/off switch and the voltage isn't accurate either.

You can get the real engine temperature and voltage via the OBD port using an app like Torque or Dash Command or you can install the Real Gauge kit by JagWrangler to get the car's gauges to work properly. For oil pressure you would have to install an actual oil pressure gauge or a new sender with the RealGauge kit.

 

WOW! What a surprise to wake up and see you are driving your car.
Your crew is to be congratulated, you have to have a smile all over your faces.
Top down weather and fixing the rest of things should be about the same time.
GREAT!

Wayne

 

There is an built-in diagnostic procedure in the A/C module, and it does not require any special tools, software or otherwise:

1. Ignition off - hold down AUTO and RECIRCULATION buttons and
switch on the ignition
2. press AUTO button - if ZERO shows, there's no stored
error codes
3. press FACE button repeatedly to scroll through stored
fault codes
4. press FACE and HEATED REAR WINDOW buttons together to
clear a fault code.
5. repeat step 4 if there's more than one code
6. press FAN button to exit Interrogation Procedure

The full document is attached, including the meaning of any code.

More than likely, though, it is the _dreaded_ auxiliary water pump. That (computer controlled) pump pushes water into the heater core and is known to wear out. It can apparently be repaired with new brushes, but it seems hard to reach and put back in place (aged, hard, short, thick rubber hoses and clamps) so the call is yours for the appropriateness of a new part. Start with a mechanics stethoscope to check for signs of life.

Could also be the "blend" control. Have you tried forcing recirc (press and HOLD the recirc button until it chirps)? FWIW, my car is warmest on Recirc and Face...

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Congratulations!!!!, There is no feeling like the feeling of the first drive in a Jaguar. You have done a remarkable job. Keep up the good work and keep us posted with your progress.

 

Congratulations to you and your buddies. You've made tremendous progress. Keep the faith and chase down the rest of those gremlins.

 

Fantastic news, Jared and kudos to you and your team.

 

Way to go, you are indeed a brave and lucky man!

 

Funny thing is. I've had an odd lucky streak most of my life. (mind you, I've had my share of darkness as well.. but.. all in all). In fact, in telling my wife about what I was buying, I told her, "well, between Rick, Randy, and myself. I feel pretty good about it.. but in truth, i'm counting on my luck too"

I understand, logically, that the car shouldn't be running yet, or running that well. Especially when we find the intake full of standing, old dirty water. I know the electronics should be in worse shape then they are. In short, I do understand how lucky I am. (not that i'm complaining) I elected to roll the dice on this wonderful cat and so far i'm still at the table. (7 come 11 and she could be mine ).

Still alot to sort out of course, but knowing I could drive it to work puts a huge grin on my face.

In no specific order.
Power seats... high priority as the are all the way forward and motors frozen. Might have to cut the motor to side rail connections with a saws-all.
Heat. Some heat as I indicated. I'm guessing Fmertz is likely correct and I should just pony up and pull the heater motor and rebuild it. Wife is a nurse,, I'm wondering if padded hemostats could clamp the hoses and not lose to much fluid. I'll likely try that and report back. (not sure when).
Speaking of heat, and other under dash items that aren't working right. (like the tilt steering wheel, trunk and gas cap button). I'm betting that I have a few other motors under the dash to get to, take apart, clean, rebuild. I'm going to try the fault codes, but interior/vs exterior air damper isn't moving, defroster frozen. etc. All motor driven and don't know if it's control or the motors until I can put power on them directly. Also, with the water/crap that was coming out of the vents, yea.. that needs to be evaporated/dried/cleaned anyway. I don't relish the idea of pulling the dash, but at this point in for a penny in for a pound.
Radio. Need to check the amp too, but I think the 6-disk is fried. Very very tempted to go oem replacement and keep the look stock.
Fog lights. still half full of water.
suspension fault. not sure if it's the module or.... waiting on the BD software/cable and i'll know more. (that will be fun to report back to you all with too.) I bought another suspension module.. so perhaps with the BD software i'll try a swap. .time will tell.
power top.. need to replace all 4 hoses, and get the overhead free of oil.
tires - Bald Zero's aren't the best idea to run on ... thinking of going more GT tire.. leaning toward some Kohmo options... I wouldn't mind a bit softer ride.

Interesting on the gauges... I had noticed that oil pressure didn't move under load like I figured it should.. the on/off makes sense for that. Temp is annoying if that is what it does.. read from stone cold to half.. then.. no information? The Volt I at least partly believe in, since I've seen it read a poor battery correctly, through the charging restore cycle, and then add about 1.2-1.5 volts when the alternator is running. At least it indicates a charging load. (or seems to)

To all, thanks for the kind words and encouragement. i'll keep you posted!

 

Looks like your doing things the way they should be done. Like anyone lying in a hospital bed, pull the tubes out as things improve, but be ready to put one or two back if necessary.

As things are repaired or replaced, and that problem is fixed, your joy of owning a Jaguar, will also improve. They are sometimes temperamental buggers, but there's nothing like owning a Jaguar. Sometimes it's almost overwhelming.

Look forward to your post and progress.

Cheers
Chuck

 

nice work - continued success in the refurb

 

Sometimes, eBay has nice enough pictures that you can figure things out before doing anything too drastic. There has to be a way to get to those seat bolts without doing too much damage. If you look at the posts related to the infamous headrest cable, it describes how the leather covers unhook from the bottom. Maybe it will help and make some space. Mechanics mirrors help. Maybe your bore camera can help, too. Could those bolts be reached from under the car, instead? Just my thoughts.

For the heat, the aux pump is reachable with a long mechanics stethoscope. Make sure it is dead before diving in. With all the flap problems you are describing, there is likely heat going to the core. It's just likely not managed correctly to give you heat. For the flaps, search eBay. There are GREAT pictures of the various parts, like blower assemblies and even air box. FWIW, there should be drains at the bottom of the air box. A lot more becomes a lot clearer once you remove the console around the arm rest and radio/ac controls.

 

Just Wow! My hat is off to you. What a challenge! I wouldn't even think of attempting it. And you've actually got it running! Downright amazing!

 

OUTSTANDING. Congratulations to you and your mates

 

UPDATE time.

Wow, my apologies for not getting back on the forums over the past few months. I hope to have a few pictures for you from my project in my next post

First,
The car runs, idles very well. We did a engine ring treatment (restore) back in March that cleared up all the smoke. Compression is solid. (no, it hasn't seen the road yet, but I made a point to let it run every few weeks for 20-30 minutes at a time. The battery is holding it's charge as well.

The interior was mostly removed. For those that recall my seat removal issue, we did come up with a non-damaging solution. We bought a 84 tooth ratcheting box end wrench and the t-40 torx bit. Using a flat washer and some thomas/betts. (basically a sticky rubber to hold the t-40 bit in place) we were able to unbolt the seat from the frame, then remove the frame itself. it actually didn't take to long. The drivers seat thankfully was in the fully up position.

The counsel was removed, radio/heat controls, lower dash panels, glove box, rear seat, etc etc etc. Some water was found but the car was kept in a 60 degree garage all winter to allow it to fully dry. The radio is toast, HVAC controls work, likely the AMP is fried as well, but I haven't gotten that far yet. The Roof has the problematic hydraulic leak but that will be next winters project. I'll just run it manually this summer.

Essentially I did an interior strip minus the carpet. Then I got derailed for a bit with fixing and selling a few other vehicles. (the good news is my profits from those sales are buying parts/tires!!!). I had a local body man fix the curl on the lip of the hood and it turned out fantastic.

I rebuilt the seat motors, (pulling the seats apart is SO much fun!) Rebuilt the steering wheel tilt and extension motors, and this week started reassembly. The front seats are in and everything tests well with motor movement. Steering wheel adjustments now work as well. This weekend, button the dash back up, reinstall the glove box/lower panels/radio and back seat. Next week i'll be making the bypass switch in the center counsel for the rear quarter window operation.

last weekend the intercooler pump decided to start whining and is twice as loud as the running engine. I pulled the unit and attempted a repair before giving up and buying the Bosch unit (the 010) per the forums here suggestions. That will arrive next week. My plan, if everything goes well, is to have the car inspected by the 15th and have my summer driver!.

I got a bit screwed by BD. As he never shipped my software/cable and I ended up in a paypal dispute when he failed to respond to any contact. I got my money back, but I don't have ISD software to really work on the car. I did pick up the i930 OBDii scanner. and that helps with any codes and module DX. But it is limited. Trunk release and Fuel door don't work yet, but I haven't had time to look into those in enough detail.

New tires are being debated. BF Goodrich Comp 2?, Nitro? Mich's?... hmmm but will be ordered and installed prior to inspection.

Other than that, been one entertaining project. I have a list for next winter with the top hose replacement, the heater core motor, and perhaps a stereo swap if I can't get the existing unit to work at all. Gotta have my projects!!!

Thank to all for your help over the months, I'm sure i'll be back begging again soon!

 

Thanks for the update. Good to hear that you are still at it and are making steady progress . Keep us in the loop!

 

Fmertz

My 2005 XKR started sounding like I rolled the Passenger window down about half-way while driving along about 40 to 50 MPH. The wind noise is pretty loud....Just thinking, do you think it could be possible that one or more of the A/C - Heater Flaps could be open or shut or in the wrong position? I run it on Automatic all the time at 72 degrees. I noticed a lot of foam rubber in the Right A/C vent the other day and dug out about a hand
full....Actually sounds like there is a hole in the firewall......Have any ideas?

Billy Clyde

 

Excellent work and fab write up. Im glad you got to this point....an inspiration to others. It's enough to put some off.

Along with several others that ive come across, i had to open a dispute with pay pal re BD (after several weeks of no goods shipped and worse ...no communication either). I got my money back but had to settle for the limited i CarSoft LR11.

 

I would start with the procedure I listed a few posts above. Then check eBay for pictures. The design has 2 blowers (driver side and passenger side). Each blower has its fresh/recir air flap. Then there is the big air box with various flaps to move the air to various places as per the front panel buttons. Try and guess what happens when you activate the buttons. What happens when you hit recirc (more or less wind noise). What about face, or foot?

You can also pop the trim around the center vent. Then 2 screws and you can see the face flap. Press face to open it, and you can then see inside the air box with a bore camera or mechanics mirror.

Other thing you can do is pull the blower fuses one at a time to check that that each blower works. You could also isolate the source of blower noises that way, too.

FWIW, my car has a whooshing wind noise by the passenger blower (I can tell by pulling the fuse and the noise is gone). Air is consistently less warm or less cold on the face vent (left side is what it is supposed to be, the right side is too cold in the winter and too warm in the summer). Not gotten around to figuring this out.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

What exactly was the engine ring treatment (restore)?




It seems that you could run an early version of IDS/SDD (say v130) on a laptop with a mongoose (mangoose china clone ~$45) and have a software tool that not only reads your DTC's but reads all the modules and program FWIW.

 

Great to follow you along on this project, sounds like great progress!
Before you put the rear window bypass in, I found that if you hit and release the top down button quickly the rear windows will lower before the the pump starts the hydraulics. Also if they are down you can do the same with the the top up side of the switch to get the rear windows to come up. I was going to install the bypass but don't think I need to now.

Also regarding the intercooler pump I did the same Bosch upgrade and you may have to prime it first by disconnecting the output hose that goes up to the charge cooler at the charge cooler and filling that hose with coolant first so it goes down into the pump.

Good Luck!