2001 XKR Convertible Fuel Pump Replacement
 

OK, after spending two days running back and forth between my computer and my garage, I think I have my problem narrowed down to the fuel pump. All fuses and relays seem to be ok... Went through Gus' TB clean procedure along with MAFS and such... No code reader so don't know if I'm getting any codes... Couldn't find the fuel pressure port on the XKR Supercharged, so don't know if I have fuel pressure (although there seems to be plenty in my A/C which I mistook for the fuel pressure port)... Checked the Emergency Cutoff Switch and it's pressed down... Getting spark, as starting fluid ignites when sprayed into TB... Not hearing the pump(s) when doing the in-trunk analysis, but not sure why both pumps would fail at the same time... I guess what I'm looking for is anything I may have missed before I remove the damn gas tank, for which I will greatly appreciate a PM containing a link to the JTIS for 2001 XKR Convertible...

By the way, GREAT forum. Makes the Land Rover forum look like a blog... Oh yeah, did I mention my 06 RR is on blocks waiting for my replacement air suspension bladders? I'm down to one working vehicle: my 96 Ducati 900SS. If that fails before I can fix my kitty, well... I guess I'll be riding the heel/toe express :S


Many Thanks in Advance,

Ryan

There is an excellent pictorial available through a link on GUS's website: http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto...eplacement.pdf

Fuel issues do not set any codes so testing the pressure at the Schrader valve is required. The valve is at the rear of the right valve cover, at least on my XK8. The pump replacement is pretty difficult so verifying first is very justified. Some auto parts stores may rent a pressure tester or they are available from $15 (Harbor Freight) to $40.

The R has two pumps in series and one can fail without notice except under high volume conditions. You may have been running on one pump for some time. The tank internal wiring harness is also a reoccurring issue and may be worthy of replacement too.

And . . . welcome to the forum by the way!

Here is the JTIS download thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ht=jaguar+jtis

Quick check show the JTIS download is still up and running.

Be sure to check out the electrical diagrams in JTIS. There is a primary fuel pump fuse and relay in the trunk fuse box, and there is also a secondary fuel pump relay in the trunk and a fuel injection relay at another location.

The Fuel Pressure Schrader Valve on a XKR is near the front of the Left Valve Cover as part of the Fuel Crossover tube from the Left Fuel Rail to the Right Rail.

Thanks all for your prompt replies; I think I've pretty much narrowed it down to the fuel pump(s). No gas from the fuel pressure port and lack of sound from the pump during the in-trunk test says pump/fuse/relay. I checked all the fuses and OHM checked the relays; last check before removing the tank will be a hotwire of the fuel pump directly to the battery. Hopefully the JTIS (downloading now; thank you WhiteXKR) will have the pinouts for the pump connector... if not, I'll search the forum then the web.

I wonder why they didn't make an access hole in the body right above the gas tank? It would make the pump replacement so much easier and less time consuming. Seriously considering cutting one once I get the tank removed; any thoughts on this?

Many moons ago I owned a Subaru Legacy which had exactly that; an access hole through which you could replace the fuel pump in the tank. I have no idea why Jag wouldn't build the car that way. It seems like a no-brainer. Of course, I'm not an automotive engineer.

I'm guessing to keep their mechanics in a job... although diy'ers will always find a way to prevail; FINALLY the weekend is here and I can get started on this project - it's getting cooler here and the ducati is getting to be a bit chilly to ride lol. When I get the gas tank out I will take pics of the fuel pump access panel I plan on making - figured cutting a hole with sparks-a-flying is a job best completed when the flammable components are removed ;)

I would rather have not been a DIYer for this project, but Jaguar of Minneapolis quoted me $1,600 to do the job so that's a lot of motivation...

The job is not that bad, what I found to be the most time consuming was finding and releasing the fuel lines from the tank.
Did the job in less than a day with plenty of breaks.The real bonus was that with the $1000.00 I saved I could buy more tools,never enough tools!

Fuel lines into tank ? for eaglexkr
 

How did u get to the fuel line I have a 2001 XKR and took a look under there and the two line one small, one large seem to disappear under a silver heat sheild above the back of the diff. Have no idea how you can possible get to the ends to remove them from the bottom of the tanks.

How did you do it ?

Thanks

You don't do anything with the heat sheilds,go back into the trunk and look at the tank and get an idea where it is,then go under the car and above the shaft(drivers side) and feel for the lines that go into tank. As I remember,I never could see where the lines connected to the tank from below.Plus you have a limited space to get you hand into but you will find them. The next trick is getting the fuel line disconnect onto the line and pushing the disconnect towards the tank while trying to pull back on the line os that it disconnects from the tank.Seach the forum,there is a lot of us that have had to replace the pumps and you will get an idea of what others went thruogh.

The small area above the aluminium shield and just above the rear differential where you see the two fuel lines disappearing is the fuel line disconnect spot.

You'll need a 3/8" fuel line disconnect tool (used to disconnect fuel lines at fuel rails for most vehicles). I've heard 5/16" works as well, but I had way better results with the 3/8" tool. Do everything you can to avoid dropping the tool behind the differential.

Reach up and slip the tool over the fuel line and push it forward with one hand as far as you can, which is hopefully into the tank itself. If your hands are too large for access to push the tool into the fuel tank, use a large flathead screwdriver or similar device to push the tool in. Once the tool is fully pressed in on all sides, the line will easily pluck out.

Hint1: You should be able to hang a trouble light on the parking break cables, and aim it backwards to get some good light on the fuel lines. It worked great for me with a large fluorescent trouble light.

Hint2: If your disconnect tool drops, just slide back to look at the area immediately behind the rear differential. That's probably where you'll find it. It won't be fun to reach, but you should be able to get up there.

Removing the tank was one of the biggest PITA's I have ever had to do, getting to those 2 pipes is a complete nightmare :icon_rant:.....I cheated, took an angle grinder to the rear bulkhead and chopped through the pipes :icon_pimp:

Not that I would ever recommend such drastic action :icon_viking:

Nice write up and great hints,its been over a year since I did mine and I think I wanted to forget the good,the bad and the ugly!!