I am about to open my 2000 xk8 up and see what tensioners are in there.
I suspect the 2nd gen plastic. If so, at 49K, what other parts should I reasonably expect to need replacing, or just the Secondary tensioner?
I know the ones of you with 'bulging pockets' will say ' replace everything'. Remember I said 'reasonably'. This thing has more bling's inside it than does Mr T.

 

You should only need a Valve cover Gasket kit, the Oil and spark plug seals (these usually go bad at some point and allow oil in the sparkplug well, many posts on this). Of course the tensioners as well, fairly straight forward. Now if you find them damaged it's recommended you drop your oil pan and clean out any debris, this may cause oil pressure issues, if they are intact just swap them out using the zip tie method. Good Luck.

ps, some will say they used the same gasket, there are a lot of variables to this decision but it's yours to make.

 

do the water pump while you are in that area, 80 dollar part easy as hell to remove and install. Get the metal gasket plate and oring with plastic impellers setup.

 

Being new to the World of Jaguars, I've not heard of the zip tie method. I sure would be interested in any method that avoids pulling the front of the engine apart. Directions, please...!

 

Being new I'll highly recommend you review the 'stickies' on the top of the forum, the how tos and maint.. many informative links there you will use over time.

Secondary tensioner change Zip Tie Method

 

Most only replace the secondary tensioners as they are the ones that fail most often. The primary tensioners are not subject to the heat of the heads and it is the primary chain slippers that crack and fail more than the tensioners themselves. The primary setup is usually good for well over a 100k miles.

You will also need the 4 shorter bolts required by the shorter metal tensioners.

Buy the Lincoln 3.9L tensioners/bolts ('02 Lincoln LS) for about half the price of the Jaguar boxed version. The Ford parts will come in a box that says 'Jaguar' on it.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/j...34/#post330655

Now the gasket set. I have R&R the covers on two cars without replacing the gaskets and so far no leaks.

If you insist on replacing the gaskets order the FelPro set for the above Lincoln from Advance AP for less than $50 using the discount code TRT30.

Felpro Valve Cover Gasket Set VS 50724 R: Search no more for the best Valve Cover Gasket at Advance Auto Parts

The zip-tie method has become the common method of replacing the tensioners as long as you know that the cams are in time before starting. If there is any question I would recommend the alignment bar method that Jaguar seems to prefer.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-how-52653/

As to what else to replace if you choose to open the coolant system and flush and replace the coolant there is a list associated with that. If you still have the plastic thermostat tower I would suggest that it is going to leak at some point. There is an aluminum version available for less that a replacement plastic version. The plastic cross over pipe is also going to fail at some point. Unless you have records of the hoses being replaced I would bet the 15 year old hoses are bulging and it is time to replace. With all that the thermostat and water pump would be a complete rework of the coolant system for something slightly over $200.

For Atlanta area folks there is a Cars-n-Pizza in Kennasaw Saturday

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/u...5/#post1146405

 

Test Point; that was one of the most direct and helpful 'replies' I have seen on this Forum, and I thank you for that. I have not yet found any written reference to the "zip tie method", but I will keep searching. I have a Ford mechanic who will be doing the work. He and his brother are very familiar with the Lincoln LS engine (according to them).

 

Brantman you have a Miata with a GM v6 in it? Conversion done on your own? Why not go with the V8 change?

 

Okay, after looking at the above referenced photos, "ZIP-TIE METHOD" becomes intuitively obvious to even the most casual observer. :0) Great Post All. Thanks

 

Read through the details of the zip tie as it pertains to removing the cam caps. The cam needs to be turned so that the valve springs put as little pressure on the cam lobes as possible. Then you are probably going to have to turn the cam a bit to use a lobe to force the cam out of the oil surface tension of the bearing surfaces.

If you plan well one zip tie will allow that slight turn of the cam.

The wife has a 1600cc '93 Miata that she bought new but she will not discuss a turbo or V6/8.

 

I would probably consider replacing the spark plugs if I were you - especially if they are still original. Everything is removed and they are right there for you... I did mine at 30k when I replaced my tensioners last year on my 2001 since they were almost 14 years old... for less than $50 you can check that off the list forever

 

I bought a 89 Miata with a 4.3 V6 and 700R4 transmission. The rear end was 280Z.
It would smoke the tires for 50 feet and blow by all but 'vets and mustang GTs. It also got 12 mpg. I just sold It for pennies to a fellow in Atlanta. I can tell your wife that if she lets you do that (V6/Supercharge) she can say goodbye to her daily driver. The money I got for that freak will buy me new tensioners and extend my life expectancy.