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Amazing What 4mm will do...
Before and after of the 4mm shim on the right axle for the camber issue after lowering springs were installed.
Looking a little tipsy to the inside haha. That's about -2.32 degrees... http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/6776/vertical001.jpg Ahhh, that's better. Should be at -.72 now. Will find out next week lol. With two 4mm shims on the studs they have two threads showing. Hooray for lock nuts! http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/7007/vertical005.jpg Just gotta nudge them in the right place sometimes.;) |
A Significant difference,,, Looks so much better and now it is a JOB DONE RIGHT...
I always feel better when the job is done to perfection... Skid now is a perfect time to pull up a chair,,, ADMIRE YOUR WORK,,, and have a CIGAR... |
Good Job. I was also amazed that an extra -1.xx degrees would make such a difference in looks as if you were transporting concrete, it looks classier again now.
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Looks like it was very necessary indeed. Thanks for the pics, they're speaking by themselves.
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Thanks guys! It really was amazing when the lift came down and she settled on the ground. One glance and I knew we'd struck gold.:)
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What springs did you use? and how much did it lower it?
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Skid;
"With two 4mm shims on the studs they have two threads showing. Hooray for lock nuts!" I don't understand are shims the same as spacers? Are you saying you put two 4mm spacers per stud on each front wheel, for a total of 8mm per stud? It can't mean only two spacer/shims per wheel. Aren't you supposed to use longer lug nuts if you install spacers for safety reasons? Two threads showing doesn't sound like enough for full and safe attachment of the lug nuts even with lock nuts or for spacer/shim plates? Lock nut / lug nuts? I put 5mm spacer plates on the front of the MINI so the smaller 15 inch winter steel wheels would clear the brake calipers and had to use longer lug nuts so I have a hard time imagining that you are safe with the much thicker alloys you have there. They look great. What did you do with the old set of wheels Detroits aren't they? Were they 20 inches? What are these new wheels called and size? You are going to have to change your signature photo now with a 'new defensive posture'. easily confused and technically challenged, jj |
@jamjax - other end of the car
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Originally Posted by jamjax
(Post 470364)
Skid;
"With two 4mm shims on the studs they have two threads showing. Hooray for lock nuts!" I don't understand are shims the same as spacers? Are you saying you put two 4mm spacers per stud on each front wheel, for a total of 8mm per stud? It can't mean only two spacer/shims per wheel. Aren't you supposed to use longer lug nuts if you install spacers for safety reasons? Two threads showing doesn't sound like enough for full and safe attachment of the lug nuts even with lock nuts or for spacer/shim plates? Lock nut / lug nuts? I put 5mm spacer plates on the front of the MINI so the smaller 15 inch winter steel wheels would clear the brake calipers and had to use longer lug nuts so I have a hard time imagining that you are safe with the much thicker alloys you have there. They look great. What did you do with the old set of wheels Detroits aren't they? Were they 20 inches? What are these new wheels called and size? You are going to have to change your signature photo now with a 'new defensive posture'. easily confused and technically challenged, jj |
SM;
Thanks for the clarification...it does look much better now. Plums; We call that 'the rear end', if you will pardon the expression. cheers, jj |
Originally Posted by bigjohnsonjeeps
(Post 470343)
What springs did you use? and how much did it lower it?
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Originally Posted by Skid Mark
(Post 470021)
Before and after of the 4mm shim on the right axle for the camber issue after lowering springs were installed.
Looking a little tipsy to the inside haha......... Graham |
The acceptable camber range for the rears is -1.50 to +.50. The recent camber before lowering the rear was -1.30, and a few other members on this forum all agreed on another -1.0 for lowering (which totaled -2.30 in my case), so I knew I could go max on the studs capacity and be well inside the green. I also wanted them as upright as I could get for tire life. I understand the Jaguar rational for negative camber and handling, but I don't horse it around that much anyway.
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Originally Posted by Skid Mark
(Post 470628)
The acceptable camber range for the rears is -1.50 to +.50. The recent camber before lowering the rear was -1.30, and a few other members on this forum all agreed on another -1.0 for lowering (which totaled -2.30 in my case), so I knew I could go max on the studs capacity and be well inside the green. I also wanted them as upright as I could get for tire life. I understand the Jaguar rational for negative camber and handling, but I don't horse it around that much anyway.
Near vertical for tyre life is worth a slight compromise on handling. Graham |
Originally Posted by GGG
(Post 470640)
When I saw the first photo, I thought the inside edges of the tyres wouldn't last long. Also crossed my mind the car might not either if you don't move your impressive collection of aerosols further away from the garage heater. :icon_duck:
Near vertical for tyre life is worth a slight compromise on handling. Graham |
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