Bleeding brakes . . .
 

My 2003 XKR needed brakes when I bought it. I replaced the front rotors and pads. No problem. Well, actually there was but that's another story. Anyway, I bled the front right caliper first. No Problem. On the left (drivers) side, I can't get the air out of the inner bleed. The outside is fine. I'm using the vacuum method. Checked to be sure the connection is holding vacuum with the bleeder closed. It is. Tried a different bleeder fitting. Same result. Any idea what the problem might be?

No Brembo guys here?
 

No Ideas?

I was expecting you'd bleed the furthest from the reservoir first and work towards it.

Maybe worth doing the rears in case it can matter?

Never bled X100 brakes but....
 

Dope for thought - In some other old cars, i’ve Had, the low pressure side of the brakes needed to be bled first before pumping the pedal on the pressure side. Not sure if that is the case on the X100....

Thanks but the maintenance manual says:

7. Following the procedure above, bleed the brakes in the order shown:
1. Left-Hand Front,
2. Right-Hand Front,
3. Left- Hand Rear,
4. Right-Hand Rear.

I suppose it must be right, though it is the first car ever that I've met those!!

However, it's not working so maybe reconsider.

Not sure if this fits your problem, but when the brake bleeder screw is loosened, air is drawn in around the threads. Bubbles appear in the tubing.

Ltd

I've never run into that before but you might be correct.
I left the bleeder screw open for a few minutes and let the fluid drain on its own.
Seems to be okay now.
Thanks to all.

Usually disc brakes will self bleed if screw is left open until fluid runs clear. When using a suction bleeder as stated above it is almost impossible to tell if the air is from bleed screw threads or actual brake air. Of course todays sofisticated anti lock systems may change my old school knowledge.

any particular reason why the brakes were needing bleeding, if all you were doing was the rotor & pads replacement ? Fluid too old and / or dirty ?


Z

The tried and true old method worked great for me. I used a helper to hold the pedal down and while fluid was still coming out of the nipple I closed it. The flow of fluid creates a seal making it almost impossible to suck air in. Sometimes a back-to-basics approach works best.

The best way to bleed brakes is to use a pressure bleeder. This makes it much faster and lessens the chance for air in the system. A Motive Products pressure bleeder is only about $50 . I usually bleed brakes starting at the caliper furthest from the master cylinder and move closer each time.