Yes my students really enjoy working on this car because it's a Jaguar and it is a good learning tool. A lot of European vehicles use this type of timing set up. Are there any updated guides and chains for this motor so there is not a repeat of this problem? I guess the next question would be am I better off swapping the engine if I have to buy specialty tools and new chains and tensioners? A used engine in my area is about $700. The original engine could still be used as a training tool after it was pulled. Probably easier to fix it but I thought I would ask.

 

A good used engine would be easier and quicker, probably. Then you could put the original on a stand and use it for training. That way you wouldn't be tying up a service
bay for a long time. You might even be able to sell the "fixed engine" and get some money back. Just a thought. Make sure you get a compatible engine, if you go used.

 

The root cause is the weak plastic tensioners that all eventually crack, stop functioning as tensioners, let the chain skip a tooth and then two, with catastrophic results. There are 3 generations of them. You need to get the 3rd gen full metal version that came with the 4.2L engine. Everything else (chains, guides, etc.) is just wear items to be replaced whenever.

 

Guess it depends on what the end goal is for the car. A replacement motor may still have all the original timing gear so, if there's definitely no physical damage, I'd be tempted to stick with the motor you have.

The full kit will run you about $600, but beware that some of them have incorrect slipper guides. See this thread by Dan02xk8:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...3/#post1513371

Check out SNG Barratt (forum sponsor)

 

Yes, but what's the point if you have to do the other side "properly"?

Genuine question.

 

You guys all give good points. One of my thoughts was if I had to buy a timing set for $600 and the tool for roughly $90 I could be close to another engine but, as mentioned, I could be in the same boat at some point again with the plastic tensioners.Michealh would that $600 include the updated tensioners and new chains. Where are those kits available? The local parts store sells everything piece by piece. I would like to hang onto the car after fixing it. The rest is in pretty good shape and for me would be something different to drive.

Fmertz are you saying I can get a kit for a 4.2 to replace the junk on the 4.0 with all metal tensioners?

NBCat I'm scanning through the manual tonight. Thanks for the pages. i also have AllData at the school as kind of a second source.

Removing the timing cover doesn't look to hard. I'm guessing the radiator and all that fun stuff will have to come out which I guess is the case no matter what I do.

 

Check SNG Barratt. I think this is the correct kit (but check as the cam cover gaskets look like they're for the AJ27):
https://www.sngbarratt.com/us/#!/Eng...d-29f360e54702

It is nearer $800, but the company offers a 10% discount to forum members. They show 3 options so you have a choice, although IMO the cheapest has the wrong primary slipper guides. All the kits have the later metal-bodied tensioners as used in the 4.2 engines.

RockAuto may also have them?

If you do want to confine to the secondaries for the time being, they're available from various sources like Christopher's parts, etc.

 

I replaced just the secondaries in several engines and they are all running fine after many thousand miles. But none of them suffered a broken chain, just cracked tensioners.

I'm not a fan of replaceable link chains, but some of my cars had them, the Alfa Giulietta being one example. It would certainly be a more economical path to follow to just replace the secondaries (not one but both) and the broken chain. I would think one of the forum members would rent the locking tools so that you wouldn't have to buy them.

 

I have an extra timing chain and tensioner kit and I have the correct guides with it that I purchased separately. I can sell you the set for $250 and loan you my timing tools for $150 deposit.

I don't know if you have enough post to send me a PM. If interested reply to this post and I will send you a PM.

 

After giving it some thought I think I will just replace the secondary chains for now. I can't really afford to buy the entire timing chain kit at the moment. Although I really like doing these projects with the kids I have to pay for everything that goes into them myself. I've seen the tool kits on ebay for less than a hundred and since it's a tool I wouldn't mind investing in that. With that tool does it re position the cams on both sides so they are in time with each other as well as the crank? I guess what I'm asking is how do I re time the exhaust cam that's removed to the intake cam? Since the passenger side is still together I'm assuming I can use the zip tie method which is that a post here on the forum? I haven't looked yet. Again without seeing the procedure, but having popped cams up on other models with belts, I'm assuming that I zip tie the base of the primary chain on the sprocket so it won't move when I pop up the intake cam.

I am going to do both tensioners and chains while I'm in there. Then maybe during the summer when schools out I might have a couple students come in and attempt the whole job.

RobRoy thanks a lot. I started typing this message before I saw your post. Is that kit to do all the chains and tensioners? I would be very interested in that. Where are you located? Unless I'm looking at the wrong tools I see the timing tool kits on ebay for under a $70. I've seen more than one from separate vendors. Does that sound right? I don't mind buying it if it's that inexpensive as I plan on keeping this car. This is the link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/EWK-Land-Ro...-/261568202090

 

The timing kit has 4 tensioners all the chains and the correct guides separately since the kit has the wrong guides. The timing kit you can get for about the price you mentioned, but I was also including the tool to remove the damper. After removing my first one this tool makes it so much easier.

I live in Sacramento but my son lives South of Hickory.

 

BobRoy that would be great. I would probably do the secondary tensioners and chains then the primary one later. At least that's what I'm thinking. As a former technician I have plenty of balancer pullers. Is the Jag one really different? I appreciate the offer but it might be a bigger pain in the butt to ship these tools back and forth. What do you think?

 

Acquire the updated parts for the 4.0 litre and replace all the parts.

Use the procedure in the X100 Workshop Manual and use the correct tools, especially for holding the crankshaft. Replacing the primary and secondary chains, tensioners and guides is not difficult. Make sure the camshaft holding tools are used and the VVT units are correctly positioned on the camshafts.

The job can be performed without removing the condenser and radiator. Remove the cooling fan shroud for sufficient access to the timing cover.

 

My decision to just replace the secondary chains may have been a little rash. We pulled the front cover off, luckily the balancer tool was similar to ones I already had, and found the passenger side tensioner on the primary chain had collapsed and just about every guide was cracked on both primary chains.

 

How did you lock the crankshaft, keep it from turning, while you removed the crankshaft bolt.

Sending you a PM about the timing kit shortly.

 

 

I locked it in place with a couple pry bars and some help from a students. I leveraged against a welded pad on the flywheel. After I broke it loose it really wasn't a big deal. We were really careful not to spin it backwards. While we are on the subject I see the little rubber cover and I popped that out but there are both screw holes and I think one non screw hole. Am I supposed to use one of these to determine TDC for the crankshaft. I want to set it on TDC before removing the chains.

Ltd thanks good advice.

 

I wish people would STOP trying to time the engine at TDC. You are going to bend/break something.
The engine times at 45 degrees AFTER TDC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bob

 

Re: Timing tools and kits...I bought one on eBay for $35, 40 bucks or so. (Forgive me my terminology because I haven't used it in 2 years and hope to never use it again) One widget goes into the crankshaft position sensor hole, locking the drive plate in position and two bars go across the flats at the front of the camshafts. Careful not to use the bars to turn the camshafts...That will break a bolt I unfortunately discovered.

After breaking said bolt, I used a large Channel Lock type tool and a rag to position the camshaft flats a skoche this way or that...Some people say you will break them if you do this, but it worked ok for me. Parts at the front of the engine are then tightened down. Engine is now timed. It's surprisingly simple.

This instructional for the similar XJ8, hasn't been mentioned, I don't believe, but is is very good and still available at:

Tmingi chain and tensioner replacement

 

The OP has a link to the Engine Repair Course, that clearly states at the top of page 74, the correct way to set the camshaft timing at 45 ATDC. Not sure if he read through it as yet.

Perhaps you need to repost the picture you have of a cut serpentine belt around the crankshaft pulley with a chain spanner to hold it so the bolt can be removed.