Convertible Top Care
 

Do you just use soap and water on your Jag convertible top?

Is there another product that will do a better job. I get a lot of rain in my area and the pollin from the trees sure seems to stain the area above the trunk lid and under the back window.

Suggestions?

I don't use anything special to wash the top, other than the meguiars concentrated soap that the whole car receives. I do spot clean ANY such bird dropping, or other liquid contaminants that land on the top. For those...I use a quick spray of the upholstery foam, let it sit for about 15 seconds, then gently message the spot with a towel dampened with hot water. It works every time...and I learned to do this early on, when a small spot was left unattended for a few weeks, and now there is a bleach spot (light grey) dot near my window that really bugs me whenever I see it.

There is specific convertible protectant that is supposed to aid in repelling these hazardous contaminants, but I never went to that extent. Ragg Top comes to mind. It has been mentioned a few times in this subforum.

Also, be careful not to scrub too hard on stubborn stains. I, like Matt, clean spots quickly, but I had one spot I should have let soak for a bit and despite using a soft rag, I scrubbed some minor scratches in the canvas. It isn't very noticeable, but it bothers me.

I do treat the top with Raggtopp (although I don't use multiple cans like someone on here once suggested) and it helps quite a bit. I haven't had any stubborn stains since, and the water wicks off nicely. Raggtopp also makes a nice cleaner that works very well. You can get them both in a nice little combo package. For my normal cleaning, I just use a lesser concentration of my normal soap.

+1 Raggtopp a couple times each season. (every other month for those that go year 'round.)

Plain water wash with a soft brush in between treatings. (soft brush = horsehair, like a shoe brush)

+1 Get the Raggtop kit. You will be very pleased with the results.

Mask your paint and glass with Saran wrap when you spray on the protectant...it is fast, easy and effective.

I used RaggTop cleaner and protectant and it was some work, but I am happy with the results....

A vote for the "303" product. Had good luck with Ragg Top also, but 303 seems to last a bit longer and has a tighter spray pattern.

The most important reason to use these products, IMO, is not so much stains as UV protection. Over time, UV will wreak havoc on the color, and then the fabric itself. Nasty.

I have used the Raggtop product for 3 years and been very happy with it. The first time I scrubbed the canvas with a soft bristle brush and then spent a couple hours with a ENTIRE lent roller getting all the 'fuzz' off it.

Raggtop is nothing more than paraffin wax and a volatile solvent but it seems to be the preferred protectorate. Something that was used on circus tents a hundred years ago. Because I know what is in it I do not use any soap or any other cleaner on the top between treatments. I only hose it off with a high pressure spray from a garden hose (35 psi).

While I have a half can left and I thing I will try something different this year. The reason I have a half can left is that a full can is just short of enough to do the top. Must be a marketing thing.

OK, 303 is on the evaluation list.

I clean my top every time I wash the car. When I treated it with RaggTop the last time I cleaned it twice and used a lint brush to clean it properly. See if this link helps Roof Conditioning

Add one for using 303 protectant and 303 cleaner. Black top still looks great and I simply hose it off like stated above. I pour the sealer into bowl and brush it on. Top never gets wet even in downpour. Water beads and top os dry regardless of amount of water dumped on it.

My top has some lines on it where it is creased when the top is down. I want to treat the top, but I'd like to get rid of the lines first. Is there a way to get the entire top looking uniform before I treat it?

Sam--I assume the 'crease lines' you are talking about are on the side just behind the quarter-windows? They are more likely chafe lines and I was told this was typical of these tops.


Doug

As far as I know from doing a bit of research, there doesn't seem to be a method to remove the lines. It's wear on the fabric, so when the light hits it, it looks different than the rest of the top because the reflectivity (or lack of it) of the fabric has changed in those spots. Not much you can do about that.

I know my car was maintained meticulously, but after the first rain I noticed how there was absolutely no water repellency to my top... every little drop of water would immediately soak and during a good rain the humidity in-cabin was too noticeable.

So, I just did my top several days ago. I took the car to the hand washer (they don't use soap on fabric tops, just a brush and water) and the top was relatively clean. I left the car garaged and let the top dry. The next day I got a lint brush, cleaned off as much particulate matter as I could and used Raggtopp protectant.

I bought two cans... figuring I wanted to apply at least 3 coats. One can of raggtopp is good enough for two very liberal coats. Following the directions, you may be able to get 3 or 4 coats with one can. My first two coats were pretty thick, but I'm certain the top had no protection, so I wanted to make sure it was good to go. I got two heavy coats with one can and I got 2 lighter coats using about half my second can. There's only been a light sprinkle since, but all of the water beaded nicely.

There is a lot of 303 vs Raggtopp debate and people seem to prefer one over the other, but from everything I've read both products are excellent and you can't go wrong using either. Raggtopp is an aerosol and needs to be applied in a garage or very still air... applying it outside will waste a lot of the product as the nozzle seems to atomize the product and even a slight breeze will blow it away before it 'rains' back onto the surface. 303 is a pump-spray so you can control how you want to apply it, or you can even brush it on.

you guys talked me into trying a top protectant...so thanks to you all! I'm going to go with 303 as my choice, as it would be nice to see the water actually bead on the top, instead of soaking into it. I've got a few items of clothing I really need to 'stain' proof also...star trek uniform comes to mind...last year, a guy with makeup on got mascara on the white flap...took hours to get it out and bleached white again.

I want to do some protectorant on my top as well. One person mentioned pouring the liquid (303 or Raggtop) in a bowl and applying with a paint brush. I had thought of a sponge - seems a lot easier than masking to avoid over-spray and removing the excess from the paint - any experience or suggestions about this idea? Why does either product need to be sprayed on? DaleD :icon_playing:

I've never used 303 on a top. Raggtopp specifically states to not saturate the top, I suppose that's why it's in aerosol form only. See usage video here: RaggTopp Convertible Top Care by Wolfsteins: RaggTopp Convertible Car Top Detailing Products for fabric & vinyl tops. convertible top cleaner, fabric

I do the brush. I think the sponge would tend to hold product and not release it as well.

I have not used the 303 product but if I were to use it I would apply it using a paint roller (small) or spray it using the spray applicator it comes in. Using a brush would provide the same coverage when painting a wall splotchy and uneven application. You must remember that your convertible top is dry and thirsty.

First good picture after my application:

Dew point is reported as being between 41-43 degrees and it's 51 degrees outside. Pavement is still wet, concrete is drying out. So this is from a light shower or misty sprinkle sometime while I was sleeping and a couple hours before this picture was taken:

http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/738/img7277e.jpg

Oh, before using Raggtopp, every hint of humidity was instantly absorbed by the top... this gives me a bit of comfort seeing how well it works.

The areas you don't see beaded up appear dry. Before, the top would look and feel soaked. I'm still waiting to see what happens during real rain. I hope it holds up.

Well I have used it and have done it with a brush and sprayed it as well and your assertion isn't correct. The product will bubble and you can easily see the coverage when brushing it on. When you spray the spray pattern is perfect and you will get a slightly more uneven coverage because the spray is not a solid circle but more uneven. But you may be able to do it better than I did...