Convertible top issue - sort of
 

When I pushed the down button to lower the top this morning it started making the right sounds. Top popped up a little. Windows went down. But the top never really lifted off the header. Pushed the button to close it - closed fine. Went through the sequence again. Same result.

This afternoon I checked - fluid level is correct. Pressure release valve on the pump is tight - all normal.

I tried the top again. Worked perfectly. Went down. Went up. Weird.

I have the pressure relief valve installed. It has been on the car a couple of years. I wonder if I am borderline on pressure to actuate the top.

What do you think? Any ideas?

Thanks,

Jack

I would say try a little aerosol graphite lock spray on the hinge joints first.

If it then still happens again, increase the pressure on the pressure relief valve perhaps a 1/4 turn.

In any event, keep an eye out for developing hydraulic leaks.

This happens to mine on a semi-regular basis (I have the top down everyday, about 360 days a year). I seem to think that the rubber seals get sticky and resist opening from the header. I find that if I nudge the front end of the top up from the header, helping it up a bit, just enough to break away from header and latch, it immediately works properly.

At times the roof system has a hiccup and elects to do what it wants to do. When the down button is pushed the windows goes down and then the roof latch opens. If the latch does not lift away it will not release the switch at the latch that tells the rams to pull the roof open. The cause for this could be a number of things, stuck switch at the latch, temperature (heat) and the normal fatigue of the roof linkage it just gets a little heavy and sags. Pushing the roof up directs the roof up allowing the switch to then tell the rams to work. As Steve has indicated a dry lube is best for the latch switch but WD40 will work in a pinch. I hope that helps.

I do not think it is getting stuck when I tried to lower the top. I say that because in both episodes where the top would not lower, the top released from the header and seemed to go up about a quarter of and inch or so - but would go no further. I considered trying to "help" it by pushing up on the top, but did not. Thought it might mess it up.

Jack

You will not mess it up if you give it a little help. Is the roof clearing the latch when it stalls? Just want to know if it is clearing the claw to eliminate the possibility of a stuck switch.

I do not think it is clearing the claw. When the top popped up from the header about a quarter inch, it was not even enough to see the claw, so I do not know what it was doing. The claw had to have moved enough to allow the top to move a quarter inch.

Thanks for thinking about this,

Jack

Two things to look at the first is to look at the linkage to be sure it is not in a bind and/or needs lubrication. The second is to look at the shaft of the roof latch and lubricate it if necessary using WD40. If using the WD40 on the latch shaft allows it to work better then you may need to lubricate it or get it rebuilt. The latch shaft has seals and “O” rings preventing leaks and at times the seal will become dislodged resulting in the shaft not moving freely.

Gus,

A few months ago I sprayed some Team McLube Sailcote on the claw and the stuff around it. Sailcote was recommended in an old thread by the man who builds and sells the pressure reduction valve that I have. Sailcote looks like really good stuff. They sell as "High Performance Dry Lubricant for Everything That Slides". I just sprayed it on the claw and the stuff visible in that area. I did not take disassemble anything. Is there anything else to do?

Thanks Gus,

Jack

I sort of had a similar experience last week. I had not put the top down for some time (still skittish but need to get over that) and when I finally decided to do so, I heard all the right noises--the windows rolled down and the top unlatched. But then there was no movement of the top. Perhaps I should have kept holding the switch but I let go and then reversed it. But then the "top not latched" light came on. So I again tried to lower and this time it worked fine. I drove around several days with the top down but then temps around here soared into the 100+ territory. So I closed the top without any problems.

I suspect the initial opening problem was due to my not having lowered the top for quite a long while.


Doug

Yeah, if yours had not been opened for a while it was probably just a little stuck to the rubber on the header. When it did it to me it lifted a little bit, then did not go any more. So since it moved a little, it was not stuck on the header.

Jack

Same here, about 1 in 15 times this happens.

I had this happen last Christmas Eve. Outside temps were probably in the upper 30s, perfect top-down weather for me (but not for my wife). I was hoping that I was not experiencing the early-warning signs of a green shower....

My wife didn't attempt to open the top again for another month or so. With outside temps in the mid-50s at that time, the top opened properly with no issues, and it has functioned normally ever since. Good to know that it is probably just the rubber seals doing a bit of suctioning across the top of the header. If this happens again, I'll give it some assistance with my hand....

I recommend WD40 because it cleans the area as well as lubricate once I find that it fixed the problem I then use a dry lube like graphite to keep it moving. What you use is up to the person doing the work. I can say that if I were to list all the recommended to be the best lubricants I would have a list a page long my input if from hands on experience.

The suggestion of holding the button for the next sequence to take place is valid this system seems to do what it wants when it wants.

Pressure Valve
 

I have the same issue and also have the valve. After I had the headliner replaced I haven't had the issue but instructions that came with the valve suggest you increase pressure slightly running the Allen wrench screw 1/4 turn clockwise. Haven't tried this yet myself.

OK My issue is back, pressure valve adjustment worked
 

OK this week my top went back to not wanting to open. Adjusted the pressure relief valve 1/4 turn clockwise. Top works like a charm now. One of the easiest fixes I've ever had on this car.

I mean no harm by saying this but I am the type to find the cause of something not working properly before I add more pressure to make it work. Walt and I talked about this same issue many times with no real solution. The valve was his creation and a good solution to the problem and he was ok with the adjustment then I was. However, I would still be looking for the cause for the adjustment but that is me. I am pleased it was the right thing for you.

Pressure
 

I think the pressure was just set to low. The valve drops the operating pressure by a third. Mine started this behavior initially when I first put the valve in but it was like every 3rd or 4th time. The top would release but I'd have to push it up manually before it would retract, didn't do that before the valve. Now it works just as it did before. Anyway the instructions said that differences in systems might require more pressure and I expect there are some manufacturing variances for the valve as well. Anyway mine is working fine again (I have the remote top gadget that Jag Wrangler sells and the sticking was screwing up the operation). Anyway take a look and the instructions for the pressure valve they make it sound like this is a normal adjustment. Jaguar Kit | LSI Controls, Inc.

The valve is in fact adjustable and I know that. Walt and I spent many hours talking about it from the onset in face I promote the application on my page. Like I said adjusting it is not a problem as long as you do not over adjust. I am just one of those people that want to know why things do not work.